Will changing from Hub kit II to Hub kit III fix the prop rattle?

[Canufixit2]

60hp 2019 Merc 4S OB engine/ Props w/ hub II kit. Will changing from Hub kit II to Hub kit III fix the prop rattle? Though I read this somewhere ? Thanks

 

[Canufixit2]

Anyone, Please?

 

[dingbat]

60hp 2019 Merc 4S OB engine/ Props w/ hub II kit. Will changing from Hub kit II to Hub kit III fix the prop rattle? Though I read this somewhere ? Thanks

I have the same issue on an Evinrude for which they don't have an OEM solution. Been advised to switch on the Flo-Torq II for a Rubex Hub
https://www.quicksilver-products.com...-iii-hub-kits/

 

[Canufixit2]

Ok, Called Mercury Marine customer service. .... My original prop had min if any prop rattle 14 x 13p Alu w/ Flow Torq II hub. I changed to a 14 x 11p Alu to adjust max RPMs still with the flo Torq Hubb II kit. - and chatter was getting bad. Accoring to mercury that DID cause the issue. Props for my app (Pontoon CT gear case) need Flow Torque III for under 13p. I ordered the flo torq III and will advise.

 

[Canufixit2]

OK, FIXED ! Swapped out flo torq II for a flor Torq III - Fixed the issue. MUCH quieter shifting and when in gear at Min Throttle. Thanks All!

 

[QBhoy]

I have this issue with a ct 115. Is it just at idle

 

[dingbat]

I have this issue with a ct 115. Is it just at idle

Hard to say. Mine acted up until the motor noise drowned it out @ 2000- 2500 rpm.

 

[Texasmark]

Seems there are 3 options: Rubber pressed in (the hallmark of cushioned propellers......opinion), the sacrificial insert as I noticed in viewing Mercury hub-swappable props, and the Turning Point guaranteed for life, non sacrificial insert.

I never had a problem running rubber hubs over the years. On the 2002 I just purchased, I went with TP Alum for my own reasons and the matching hubs are guaranteed, not sacrificial, and have to be driven in...with a soft mallet.....good tight fit.

I don't want a sacrificial hub as it would be analogous to an old "drive pin" OMC used to use and was referred to as a "shear pin" rather than drive pin because every time you needed it, like fishing Rip-rap on the windward side (where the fish are feeding) you would hit something and loose your power when you needed it most. A rubber hub would just slip, re-engage with the throttle cut to idle and then back to where it was and you were safe.