What paint is best for an outdrive?

[Chad Flaugher]

I have an old OMC stringer outdrive. I started getting a touch of water in the upper gearcase this season, so I removed the outdrive, and separated the upper and lower gearcase. I opted to let a mechanic who specializes in the older stuff reseal the upper gearcase for me. When I get it back, I plan on wiping it all down with solvent, and painting it before reinstalling. The mechanic suggested an implement paint, but I thought I'd run it by you guys. I want to stay with a white paint similar to what it already is. What holds up best to the conditions? Thanks in advance!!!

 

[jbcurt00]

Trailered or slipped?

 

[Chad Flaugher]

Trailered

 

[Woodonglass]

Any Oil based Acrylic Enamel with the added hardener should do the trick just fine. You'll need to prime with S.E. Primer if there are any Bare Spots in the aluminum. Scuff the rest and use Rustoleums Bare Metal primer. Once cured it'll yield a very durable high gloss finish

 

[Watermann]

I used alkyd enamel tractor paint for my MC outdrive and it seems to be holding up good so far.

 

[jrttoday]

thanks for the thread! and thanks Woodonglass, how long to cure and what about semi-gloss or a flat finish?

 

[Watermann]

Another option is Moeller marine engine / IO spray paint. They have about every color matched to the manufacturer.

 

[dingbat]

Enamel gives so-so results. No where close to the durability of a factory finish.

A quality zinc chromate primer followed up with multiple coats of acrylic lacquer. As close to factory as you're going to get at home.

 

[Chad Flaugher]

A quick "Outdrive paint" search on Ebay brings up some stuff by Interlux and or Aquagaurd. Anybody try that?

 

[gm280]

Well if we all are going to support our favorite, I like PPG Shop Line Acrylic Urethane Automotive Paints with Clear Coat top coats myself. And I do know that the shine is there and the ability to laugh at oils, fuels and a lot of chemicals we use around such engines. JMHO!

 

[Swoosh3]

Since I was having a little fun with it, I used a Chromate free Acid Etch Primer on all parts
Prop: Alkyd Enamel
Lower Drive and Tilt/Trim Rams: Acrylic Urethane
Upper Drive: Acrylic Lacquer
I'm thinking that by the end of next Season I'll have a better idea on what stands up best.
(Mercury Dealers around here have Acrylic Lacquer on their shelves marketed as drive paint.)

ETA: I did not Clear Coat anything as I didn't want to chance a wrinkle-fest.

 

[Watermann]

For obvious reasons my bet is the prop will loose it's paint first.

 

[Woodonglass]

When you use any Alkyd based Acrylic Enamel Oil Based paint and then add the Hardener to it you are basically creating a two part paint. You should wear a very good respirator when spraying this paint. It's kinda like spraying paint with Super Glue added to it. Can be very harmful to your lungs!!!! But it will yield a very durable and High gloss finish. It will dry quickly (30 mins or less depending on temps) and be ready to re-coat in 4 hours. I've been using it for 6 years now and have had excellent results with it's durability. ACE Hardware has an excellent product now called Rust Stop and it comes in a LOT of colors. Excellent price too!!! I'm sold on using this paint and have not heard of anyone having any issues with it. In face everyone that I know that has used it has had excellent results and have been really pleased with their results. As with all Paint jobs it's ALL about the prep work. If you do it right you'll get excellent results. This is NOT to say the other paints mentioned aren't excellent paints, because from what I've learned they are, but...their pricelines are more than what I care to pay, and the results I've obtained from the Alkyd based enamels is more than acceptible for my needs. Like I always so though, It's your boat and your decision. You should go with what you deem best for your situation.

I painted the BF's prop with the Blue Paint. Used SE primer and it's held up fairly well. It HAS worn off on the prop edges but the rest has help up well. The Great thing about the paint is..With a Pre-Val sprayer I can touch it up in 2 mins.

 

[Chad Flaugher]

So Woodonglass and gm280... Is that applied with a HVLP sprayer?

 

[gm280]

Chad, Yes I use a Devilbiss HVLP spray gun with a 1.3mm tip. I Zinc Chromate the bare aluminum, then use a PPG JP202 2K high build primer, then block and wet sand that with 400 to 600 paper. Then spray the base coats of paint. Usually three. But the paint dries in mere minutes so it doesn't take very long to recoat. And then I use PPG JC6800 series multi panel Clear Coat top coats. And if you are really wanting a liquid glass finish, you can wet sand the Clear top coat with 2000 grit paper and polish it out. I can guarantee you, if will look amazing, and be fuel and oil resistant as well. But that is just my tried and proven method. Everybody has their own. JMHO!

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup HVLP works great. Harbor Freight guns work well. The link in my signature has good info on how to shoot the enamel

 

[gm280]

Yup HVLP works great. Harbor Freight guns work well. The link in my signature has good info on how to shoot the enamel

WOG, I have to ask because I honestly don't know. Once you add the hardener to the Rustoleum type paints, do they become oil and fuel proof then? I've really never tried to see if it does and thought you probably know. Just interested.

 

[Woodonglass]

WOG, I have to ask because I honestly don't know. Once you add the hardener to the Rustoleum type paints, do they become oil and fuel proof then? I've really never tried to see if it does and thought you probably know. Just interested.

Yup and the paint is so glossy I find no need for clear coat. Which makes touch ups a breeze!!!

 

[Chad Flaugher]

I really appreciate all the good info... How would one purchase just enough of these products to paint ONE outdrive? I'd hate to be sittn' on a bunch of unused product.

 

[Woodonglass]

Well, you can buy the Rustoleum or the ACE RustStop paint in Quarts, and the Hardener in 1/2 Pints. That's just about perfect for what you'll need. A Pint of Mineral Spirits and a Pint of Acetone for Thinning and you're good to go. Total costs for everything...Under $50 bucks. As previously stated, this link has all the "How to" info you'll need for mixing and applying. Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint...Say What!!!