Re: VRO 3 wire help?
Be very cautious. I find it hard to believe that anyone could possibly unplug a VRO pump by accident, especially one that old.
What the seller has done is to eliminate the VRO warning that would sound the horn if the VRO failed and stopped pumping the correct amount of oil.
To test that the warning horn is still in the circuit, with the engine NOT running, have the key in the ON position, then ground out one of the TAN heat sensor wires that you'll see protruding out of the cylinder heads. The horn should sound when you ground either of those TAN wires. If it does not, find out whay as that's the only warning you'll receive if you have a fuel restriction.... the engine overheats.... the oil level drops below the 1/4 full level.... or if the VRO fails, you have a oil restriction, air exists in the oil line.
(VRO Horn Warnings)
(J. Reeves)
1 - A steady constant beep = Overheating - The V/6 engines, possibly some others, have a fuel restriction warning which is also a steady constant beep.
2 - A beep every 20 or 40 seconds = oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank. (Late model engine = Every 40 seconds)
3 - A beep every other second = VRO failure, air leak in oil line, oil restriction, (anything that would result in a lack of oil being supplied to the engine).
NOTE - If the warning horn is the black plastic (overpriced) three wire type horn, the warning horn should beep once when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. If it does not, it is either faulty or someone has disconnected it (a stupid move!). At any rate, if it does not beep which indicates that the horn is non functional, find out why and do not run the engine until the problem is corrected.
I'd suggest that you either purchase and install the latest updated VRO or eliminate it and premix the gas/oil.
If installing a new VRO, be sure to prime it as follows:
(Priming The VRO Pump)
(J. Reeves)
When hooking up or installing a VRO whether it is a new or original VRO pump, it must be primed in order to dispel any air that might be in the oil line.
Have the Oil line attached to the engine fitting BUT detached from the VRO. Add a piece of fuel hose if necessary to the oil line so that it can be aimed into some sort of container.
Pump the oil primer bulb, catching the oil flowing out of the line into the container until you are absolutely sure that you have rid the oil line of every bit of air that might have been trapped there.
Now, connect the oil line to the VRO and secure it. When the oil line is secured, apply pressure to the oil primer bulb ONE TIME only. That's it.
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Or if converting to premix:
(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)
(J. Reeves)
You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup by doing the following:
1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.
2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.
3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quantity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.
That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.
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But whatever you do, I strongle advise against running that engine with that old obsolete VRO as you woulkd be inviting trouble! Did you take a compression reading on that engine before purchasing it? If not, do so now.
