Universal tower question

wired1236

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Messages
111
So all of you installing the universal towers onto boats with rounded hulls...how do you handle the fact that most universal mounts are flat and your hull is rounded. The custom tower manufactures boast this issue as one of the reasons to pay another $1k+ for their tower. I notice some universal manufactures supply a rubber or plastic spacer to help accommodate the hull but I'm not quite sold on the ones who just supply a flat spacer that is supposed to make up the difference between the flat metal mounting bracket and the rounded hull, (and then hope that your gel coat doesn't crack). I'm thinking for the extra grand, I could easily have a custom aluminum or hard plastic spacer made. Thoughts?
 

sebber83

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 27, 2009
Messages
156
Re: Universal tower question

I looked up Reinell Boats and if i can see correctly, your hull shape resembles mine and I had no problems installing my tower. I suggest you check out monstertower.com and send them a message. They offer amazing service and will give you the straight answer, but I strongly believe a standard monster tower would fit!
 

wired1236

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Messages
111
Re: Universal tower question

Thanks guys. I have checked them out but I guess still a little weary of the mount even they use. I'm looking for a little different look than the Monster. I like the look of the Aerial Airborne or something very similar. If everyone here tells me it's all good then OK. Sampson Towers here in Vancouver, WA is a high end custom tower and I really like the look, just not the price.
 

rad1026

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 1, 2006
Messages
443
Re: Universal tower question

Sampson uses the same type single bolt base that the Aerial Tower uses. They have some great installation videos on their web site showing how they customize the base plate for the particular hull curve. I wonder if they would just sell you the base plate that would match your hull. The other option would be to create a template of your hull curve and then customize the Aerial bases to fit that curve. I don't think it would be that hard on aluminum. But I agree, you can't use a flat base on a curved surface or you will get cracking. I'm installing the Big Air Vapor tower on my boat

http://www.bigairpylons.com/VaporTower.htm

But I have an older boat with flat surfaces
 

Gabe123

Recruit
Joined
Nov 16, 2009
Messages
1
Re: Universal tower question

Try diywake they are cheaper and have been around a lot longer than Aerial or Samson and probably installed more towers universal or custom towers than both combined.

www.diywake.com
 

wired1236

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Messages
111
Re: Universal tower question

Can't do the Vapor tower because my beam is at most 78" wide in the front but I agree with making an adaptor. I have access to a shop that could easily make something like that.

The DIY deserves some serious thought though.
 

jonsquatch

Cadet
Joined
Apr 14, 2008
Messages
26
Re: Universal tower question

I have exactly the same boat. I just got it toward the end of this season and the last thing I did before winter was put a tower on it. I got the DIYWake Pro Universal Swoop Tower in polished aluminum. They used to have pictures of it on a Reinell on the website before they got rid of the package deals. It fits pretty good, but it does hit right on the curved part of the hull. Between the fact that the tower allows for the mounts to hit at whatever angle is necessary and the rubber pads it fits well.

It was a bit of a pain to put in, you better have a strong buddy on hand and either be 6'+ or have a step ladder you can get in the boat. The way it is designed is the legs slide into the ladder top and you have to drill holes through the legs through the existing holes in the ladder top to bolt it together. As narrow as the 185 is you have to cut about 4-5 inches off of each leg since they run long since it is a universal fit. I went ahead and cut some 4x6 pieces of 1/2" ply to back the hull.

What I did was pre-drill the fiberglass (I ran the drill backwards when I went through the glass to avoid chipping the gel coat) and chamfer the edges with a slightly larger bit to avoid stress cracks. Then I used some construction adhesive to adhere the plywood and after setting overnight I drilled through the wood and and then bolted the mounts on using the supplied backing plates and lock nuts the were plenty long enough.

I used it twice before the end of the season and it worked great, and I checked the fasteners when I winterized and everything was still tight. I wish I had a picture of the tower, but I didn't take any before the first trip out (I was 2hrs late as it took 3hrs longer than I budgeted to get it together), and my camera got destroyed on my second outing. I have it collapsed and covered, but I will try to take a picture in the morning of the mounting points for you. Based on price and how well it worked I would buy it again, but I haven't ever installed a tower before so I can't say how the experience compares.

It took me about 3hrs of mock-up and 30 minutes of drilling one day. Then about 30 minutes to cut the wood blocking and glue it in. The next day it took about 30 minutes to drill the wood and 2+hrs to bolt the mounts up (I couldn't keep a wrench on the damn nuts for the life of me). The legs were still too long so I spent another 1/2hr trimming them as second time, and 20 minutes to mock them up properly. With help we had the holes drilled in the top and bolted up in another 30 minutes and were ready to clean up and hit the lake. Take more care in cleaning up than I did, as I ended up getting 3 different shards of aluminum in my foot that day although luckily I was the only one.
 

jonsquatch

Cadet
Joined
Apr 14, 2008
Messages
26
Re: Universal tower question

As promised here are some shots of the front and rear leg mount pads on the boat. Its a shame I don't have a picture of it up, it looks great.
 

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Red Sox 2004

Recruit
Joined
Dec 14, 2009
Messages
5
Re: Universal tower question

Barewest Wakeboard Towers, uses a neoprene/rubber padding that stiffens over time filling the adjusted void to the rounded surface, also the location of mounting is important. Put the tower in a spot that it will land on the flattest surface possible. Also the design of Barewest bracket is 2 inch's wide making it much easier from other towers to mount on the flat surface. Barewest has great deals going right now T4 collapsible tower for $1250, they manufacture their towers in the US. www.barewest.com then Barewest Specials.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Universal tower question

one of the methods i use for rounded hulls is lo tech....but it works great.

using the correct sized hole saw...cut out the appropreate diamiter disc out of the same plastic they use as a cutting board....(the white stuff that has kind of a waxy feel to it)

then very carefully......using a table saw with a 10 inch blade....adjust the blade to approx one half the thickness of the disc you have just cut.

using a wooden tool that will hold the disc (you make it) push the disc across the side of the blade.....that means you do not cut like you would with wood....start beside the blade and slowly push the plastic disc from the side of the blade.

tough to explain...

but when you are done......you have a perfect coutour for a rounded hull.
the depth and size of the blade will give you varying radises for the contour of the hull.

for the inner backing plate.....just use short strand filler on a peice of wood, and stick the wood on to the spot where you want the post.

you will need longer bolts than the manufacturer supplies....but thats no big deal.......ill post detailed pictures and instructions on how to install a universial tower soon....

just remember that the word universal means :it doesnt fit anything right.

cheers
oops
 

superpop

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
869
Re: Universal tower question

I would not put it on without the proper shims that compensate for the curve. You can put a lot of stress on that one mounting point and if something has to give, it will be the fiberglass as the stress point will be very small without the stress being spread across the mounting pad. I have the Samson tower and it is well worth the money, rock solid and doesn't move or rattle a bit. If you already have what you have then OOPS idea sounds like a good one. If you have access to a disc sander or dremel tool, I am guessing you could make one up. I would also call Samson and see if they will sell you new shims, That would be the best. Check out their website. They have a pretty good video that explains the shims.
 

mpod

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 31, 2009
Messages
46
Re: Universal tower question

If you decide to go the home-made route, I would have an experienced woodworker or machinist fabricate your shims. The table saw method explained is typically used to make crown-molding and is very dangerous if you don't know what you are doing and are not properly using a guide fence, hold downs and feather boards. Not something I would ever recommend to someone that hasn't done it before or that isn't very experienced with a tablesaw. :eek:
 

wired1236

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Messages
111
Re: Universal tower question

As promised here are some shots of the front and rear leg mount pads on the boat. Its a shame I don't have a picture of it up, it looks great.

Well, I actually went ahead and installed the DIY tower almost exaclty has you did except I put the back legs on top of the hull instead of the side. It turned out that the tickness of the hull at that point is over 1" thick so it provided a VERY sturdy install. The front is almost exaclty as you mounted it. I still have to make the shims yet. I have a custom shop making them for me. They are simply making a copy of the rubber shim out of aluminum and then I will round out one side to account for the hull radius. Shouldn't be too hard. Belt sander or table saw. I have them making a couple of extras incase I screw one up. I'll post pics this spring once it's all done.

Barewest Wakeboard Towers, uses a neoprene/rubber padding that stiffens over time filling the adjusted void to the rounded surface, also the location of mounting is important. Put the tower in a spot that it will land on the flattest surface possible. Also the design of Barewest bracket is 2 inch's wide making it much easier from other towers to mount on the flat surface. Barewest has great deals going right now T4 collapsible tower for $1250, they manufacture their towers in the US. www.barewest.com then Barewest Specials.

Barewest is actually made just down the street from me. I checked them out. Good towers but I just don't like the look vs. price as much. Sampson is also made here locally just across the border (Washington). Very nice towers but also very expensive since they are custom for every boat. I even have an "in" over there but figured they can't compete with the $1,300+ I spent on my whole package, (tower, speakers, lights, racks, mirror). The DIY looks awesome for a universal and so far has had great customer service. I called them about the mounting and had the guy call me on the phone within minuites! I haven't used it yet but after installing it, I am sure it will be a very sturdy tower.
 

wired1236

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Messages
111
Re: Universal tower question

As narrow as the 185 is you have to cut about 4-5 inches off of each leg since they run long since it is a universal fit. I went ahead and cut some 4x6 pieces of 1/2" ply to back the hull.

.

Funny I didn't have to cut the tubes any. I still had more to go if I needed. I also didn't use any other backing then what they supplied. The aluminum plates seemed to stiffen it right up and I like the fact they have two bars for each foot which helps with the curve issue underneith. Maybe I will add some when I do the shimming. You're right though, it was not an "easy" job. The wiring of it all took me just as long as the tower and I have a lot of experience with stereo and lighting wiring, (hence my screen name), but I was sure to do everything the way I knew it should be done. No crimp connectors here.:)
 

rabiddawg

Cadet
Joined
May 30, 2008
Messages
19
Re: Universal tower question

Try using some adhesive backed sand paper on the curve you wish to duplicate. Then simply slide the spacer material or hardware on the paper until you have a perfect fit.
 
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