Trying to figure out replacement tilt trim for 1977 Chrysler 135

[seattle scott]

I get OEM part numbers variously as F72H09 and F71H27 but no diagram so not sure what these parts look like. then I find references to part 44-9541-1, but not sure where that number is coming from. So will this unit work as a replacement ? http://www.amazon.com/Motor-Chrysler-Force-Evinrude-Johnson/dp/B001UOD0QQ

In the pics, I took off the top of the valve assembly to get the fluid out since something was frozen and I couldn't get the engine to tilt up. I am not sure how I am going to figure out how to get all the little parts back in place on the valve unit.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Trying to figure out replacement tilt trim for 1977 Chrysler 135

Since that motor comes with a reservoir, It can be used with your pump body. HOWEVER: Your old motor was a three wire and that one is a two wire. You need to assemble a two relay switching system. It is not difficult, just time consuming. You must reassemble and re-use your pump or valve body as you call it. That unit does NOT come with a pump.

 

[seattle scott]

Re: Trying to figure out replacement tilt trim for 1977 Chrysler 135

Frank the product description says 3 wire toward the end of the specs. Thanks for all your help on the engine. Got it running OK - can't do more until I can run it up in the water.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Trying to figure out replacement tilt trim for 1977 Chrysler 135

My bad! I didn't read all the way and from the picture it looks like the newer 2 wire motor. So, if it is a 3 wire motor you should be able to use it with no modifications.

Personally, I prefer to use 2 wire motors because that way only signal voltage is present at the switch. I have converted a couple of 3 wire motors to 2 wire operation with a couple of relays--very simple and besides hooking up the relays, you only need to isolate the motor ground wires on the relays and not use them. You still use the existing motor ground wire to the block or battery.

I save money by getting my relays from the auto junkyard. GM relays are weatherproofed.

 

[RRitt]

Re: Trying to figure out replacement tilt trim for 1977 Chrysler 135

yes, that will work. The price seems about $30 high. try an iboats or google shopping search?

It is actually a nice motor on the inside. the windings have been glued solid with resin and it has a generous lower bearing which helps make it quieter. At first it also had an oil spreader to protect the brushes (the alloy bearings seep oil when hot). In a later model I noticed that the spreader was no longer being installed. It also had a rotary shaft seal with spring loaded lip which is an improvement upon the original o-ring that prestolite used for a lower seal.

However ...
the top cable entrance points straight up where water can collect, the frame gaskets are cheap rubber, the upper gasket has a 1/4: break where the seal is weaker, the brushes are made from a lower grade carbon, and the top bolts are exposed steel. So all the improvements in technology do not much matter. The prestolite was "more waterproof". Water or rust will get into the motor and shorten it's lifespan. I would expect the chinese motor to have about 1/3 the lifespan of the OEM.

as regard installation:
1) it has a larger reservoir and does not fit onto engine the same. you must rebend the oil tubs to line up before assembly. Failure to have correctly bent tubing will result in stripped aluminum threads on valve body.
2) the top bolts are steel. paint them with rubberized coating before installation.

 

[seattle scott]

Re: Trying to figure out replacement tilt trim for 1977 Chrysler 135

Thanks Ritt, but will the unit in question bolt onto the engine bracket ( I dont knew what the correct name is) just fine?

 

[RRitt]

Re: Trying to figure out replacement tilt trim for 1977 Chrysler 135

Thanks Ritt, but will the unit in question bolt onto the engine bracket ( I dont knew what the correct name is) just fine?

yes, but it is slightly longer and the oil tubes will have to be bent down about 1".

 

[seattle scott]

Re: Trying to figure out replacement tilt trim for 1977 Chrysler 135

I can't get the oil tube nuts off the valve/pump, except for the line that comes in the bottom. Everything is frozen together - have tried Deep Creep and a torch over two week period. So I need to take the whole transom bracket off. This means I have to take the motor off the stand. I have a cherry picker I have used before but have always lifted the motor with a chain going under the transom bracket which make the engine go horizontal. Is there anyway to lift the engine from a point high up on the power head so the whole thing hangs verticle as if it is was still on the stand? I would like to lift and hang and not have to set the motor down on its side to remove the whole tilt/trim transom bracket but I dont see any attachment points on the case or power head. What am I not seeing?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Trying to figure out replacement tilt trim for 1977 Chrysler 135

You need to make a lifting tool: A small flat plate about 1/4 inch thick or thicker with an eyebolt centered in it and three radial spaced holes to match the tapped holes in the flywheel. Use three long 1/4 X 20 bolts. Or try a steering wheel or harmonic balancer puller with an eyebolt in the center

 

[seattle scott]

Re: Trying to figure out replacement tilt trim for 1977 Chrysler 135

Thanks Frank

 

[RRitt]

Re: Trying to figure out replacement tilt trim for 1977 Chrysler 135

when I am faced with tube nuts that won't come free I just cut them. If you get a BIG set of lineman pliers and pinch the tube then it will snap. Cut it really close to nut and you can use a six sided socket. the cost of a tube is a lot less than stripping threads.

If you need them, i have extra sets of tubes and fittings. But it is better to be careful and not ruin any threads or fittings. Ruin the oil tubes if you are going to ruin anything.

 

[seattle scott]

Re: Trying to figure out replacement tilt trim for 1977 Chrysler 135

Thanks RRit. If I cut the tubes, do I need a shop to form the new flanges, or is this something I can do? I have never worked with oil lines before.