Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

Wrencher

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I am getting ready to take on the project of replacing the transom on my GW Trophy 259. I noticed a cracking noise last time we were out, but one motor was loading up on 2 cylinders and missing at idle, and I thought that was just from the motor. When I was washing the boat down that evening, I saw that the transom was pulling past the cap. The cap was cracked when I bought the boat, but not spread out like in the pics. But I have several problems that I have to figure out. First is my Home Owners Associatian's permission to have my boat in my driveway for about a month. How I hate HOA's. The second problem is that my transom is wider than 8 feet, and taller than 4 feet. The third is that I am going to repower this winter and my transom is set up with 2 2.5L Sea Drives. The first problem can be handled. The second problem is my main concern. I have read and read here on the forums, and it is probably here somewhere and I haven?t found it. I don?t know what to do about splicing my transom. I can?t find 4? X 10? pressure treated plywood. I haven?t check on marine plywood though. The third dilemma is if I am going to repower this winter, now is the time to cut the transom to for the repower instead of mounting a twin motor bracket. I did some measuring today at storage. I lowered the trailer tongue so the bottom of the hull was level. Then I lowered both motors until the cavitation plates were level and took a straight edge and marked the hull in line with the cavitation plates. The motors are mounted 32 inches apart on center, and that was where the cavitations plates cleared the hull. That is 4 inches above the bottom of the hull. So I figure measure up either 29 inches or 34 inches from the bottom of the boat for the height of the motors. Is my thinking correct, or are there other ways to figure height of the transom. I need advise through this whole project and Iboats people have the experience. All ideas and thoughts are needed for this. Thanx.
 

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Wrencher

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Re: Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

Here are a couple more pictures of the damage.
 

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Woodonglass

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Re: Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

You can make your own 5 x 10 plywood sheets by laminating ext. grade 1/4" Luan Plywood and overlapping the joints. Use epoxy and it will be just like factory, maybe even stronger. Here's a drawing of how I would do it...


Click the pic to enlarge

5x10Plywood.jpg
 

Wrencher

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Re: Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

I have 3/8 exterier plywood, and my transom is 2 3/4 inches thick including fiberglass. Will the 3/8 plywood work since it will be 6 layers? Should I use mat inbetween the plywood? Thanks
 

Mark42

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Re: Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

I would think that would be very sufficient. Especially if you use epoxy. Also, to inprove the strength of where seams are, make the butt ends of the plywood a zig-zag cut, like stair case stringers. That way, there is no long butt ends inside the laminated layers. I too would use pressure treated lumber. Just be sure it gets time to dry before use.

Also, the through bolts that hold the motor assembly on is a common place for water to leak into the transom. A good insurance policy is to over drill the holes by a little, so that the inside of the hole can be painted with a coat or two of epoxy. That will ensure the holes are sealed.
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

Can you please give us better pics not only of the Damage .. but of the MOUNTS that hold them Twin firebreathers on the back of the trans please.

Just saying because your engine mounts look like there kinda High up on the trans ( right at the hull/deck joint were the damage happened ).

IS your trans shot ? ..Or are you asking a question on how to repair this problem.. ? .. Any core samples done ?

It really looks like a modded GW to me .. I hope Im wrong so please post more pics and info :) .

What year is this .. I can call up someone at GW and have them to see if there were any Build issues with that year/make/model ( I know peeps there ;) ) .

YD.
 

oops!

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Re: Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

you are in an outboard situation.....a 4x8 sheet will do just fine......you are over thinking.....

you will need 3 sheets to get 2 3/4...so put your joints in different places....and laminate the thing togeather.

,,,,but we do need to see different pics........and paragraphs !
 

Wrencher

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Re: Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

Hey YD,
I don't have any pics that would show what you wanted, but I can sure go and take more. This is a 1983 GW Trophy 259 with 2 high mount OMC 2.5L Sea Drives. As far as I can tell, these were the motors that this boat was born with. The thing that I found interesting, and I can't get a pic of it tonight is that under the cap there is angle iron formed to the curve of the transom that could not have been put there without the cap off. So I was inclined to think that it was born with that also. It'll be a day or two before I can get to storage and get more pics (Home Owners Association won't let me keep it here) If there's anything specific you want, let me know and I'll try to get it. I didn't take any core samples, I just figured since the top had damage I probably should replace the complete transom. Do you need the Hull ID?
Thanks, any information is appreciated.
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

No problem waiting on the pics .. I could use some more pics of the actual fiberglass damage up close and full frame without backround.

Inside where the mounting bolts are needed .. Bracket/mount outside profile is very helpful as well.

You do not need to replace a good transom when just some top mount bolts failed .. yet to be determined.

Yes the Hull ID always helps ( Please do NOT post your hull ID on open forum .. just PM your HID ).

Very nice GW .. let us figure the best approach with this one :) ..

YD.

PS. I Just got back from a family tubing down the river .. please give some response time as I am now in charge of cleaning up dirty faces and wet gear :D .. talk to ya after work monday.
 

Wrencher

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Re: Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

Ok, Yacht Dr. and Oops,

I took more pictures today and one video which I guess I'll upload to Youtube and link it to one of the posts.

The first picture shows a reinforcment that was used when the cap was trimmed for clearance for the Sea Drive. From what I understand, some of the companies that used the OMC Sea Drives mounted them too low. I believe these motors are placed properly.

The second picture shows where the cap is cracked in between the motors more to the starboard side.

The third and fourth pictures shows where the transom is pulled past the cap. this is also over the starboard motor. Another thing that I noticed was that it didn't seem that the fiberglass of the hull was pulled away from the wood on the transom.

The last picture is just a different angle showing where the cap is cracked/broken in between both motors.
 

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Wrencher

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Re: Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

Here are some pictures of the mounting of the starboard motor outside and in.

The first picture is the lower motor mount/bracket. It is just there to hold the tilt cylinder. The trim cylinder is actually mounted in the Sea Drive bracket aseembly.

The second and third pictures are the upper Sea Drive mounts/brackets.

The fourth and fifth pictures are from under the rear storage area and are of the upper Sea Drive mount/bracket bolts through the transom. There are no cracks in the hull liner, which is just bolted with the Sea Drive bracket bolts. It does not appear to be bonded to the transom. There are layers of fiberglass actually on the transom under the liner. It can be seen obove the liner under the rear storage area, but not clearly in the pictures.
 

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Wrencher

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Re: Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

Here are the last pictures.

The first picture shows the angle iron I was talking about on the top of the transom. What I was trying to show is a gap about a quarter of an inch between the angle iron and the transom.

The second and third pictures show the angle iron very well. The bolts that are there are just lag bolts, not bolts going all the way through. The cutout in the third picture is for the air intake bellows, cable and harness pass through.

The fourth picture is inside mount bolts for the port motor. Those marks that look like cracks are just scratches.

The fifth picture shows how thick the transom is. From what I read about the Sea Drives, the transoms were made thicker on the Grady White because of the weight of the Sea Drives and the pressure (not really the right word, maybe outward force due to the weight when the motors are tilted up is better).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBrhXXS-J88

This is a link to a video I uploaded to Youtube just showing the flex of the transom by pushing on the motors without much effort.

Another thought worth mentioning is I have not taken core samples of the transom yet. But when I installed the new transducer for my fish finder, I had to remove the old bracket from the transom. When the screws were removed, water came out. I left the screws out for a few days, then sealed the holes and reinstalled the screws. The same thing happened when I drilled the pilot holes for the new bracket.

If there is anything else you need to know or see, I'll do my best to get it.

Thanks again.
 

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Yacht Dr.

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Re: Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

I just watch the vid .. and all I can say is you should probably have a pro take a look at it.

That trans should not flex like that even if the deck is removed.

At this point I would say a failed trans is the issue.

1. Rotted trans. ( I saw no indications of that yet ). Yes I know you said water came out from your ducer job..that dont mean a thing as far as rotted transom though.

2. Cracked fractured trans wood ( basically you have a 2-3 piece trans now ).

Its almost impossible to say for sure at this point. Without a visual inspection .. its all guesses from here.

So .. again .. take it to a reputable repair shop and let them take a look at it.

The fractured hull/deck joint is the easy part :) .

Keep us informed ..

YD.
 

Wrencher

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Re: Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

Yacht Dr,

Did you get a chance to call Grady White today?
 

Wrencher

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Re: Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

I emailed Grady White late last week, and asked them what resin they used on the Grady White. I also requested engineer drawings of the stringers.
They didn't say that they used vinylester resin, but they recommended vinylester resin for the transom repair. Will epoxy adhere to the vinylester? Any comments?
.
They also emailed me the drawings of the stringers. I actually was surprised.

I'm not ready to start the repair yet, I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row.

By the way, I found 5'x10' marine plywood. Waiting for a price quote.
 

Wrencher

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Re: Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

Well, I brought my boat home last weekend, thinking I was going to pull the motors, trim tabs and swim platforms, and I was wrong. I did get the trim tabs and both swim platforms removed. I have the port motor ready to pull off.

I guess it would be time to build 2 motor stands before I go any further. Will pick up the lumber and hardware for that tomorrow. As for the 5x10 marine plywood, forget that. $158 a sheet plus shipping. I found 4x10 marine fir plywood here in Houston for $75.18 a sheet, and can scarf joint the width I need. Will pick that up sometime next week.

Has anyone used Aeromarine epoxy resin and harnders? Quite a bit less expensive than West System Epoxy and I was wondering what the difference, if any, there was.

That's all I've got for now.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

Aeromarine Epoxy is quality resin and will be fine to use for your application. Are you purchasing it locally or ordering online. If ordering, you might check out the USComposites.com Epoxy resins. Very good stuff.
 

parrisw

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Re: Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

If that was my boat, I would build a pod to repower. You may loose some space if you cut the transom to fit outboards.
 

Wrencher

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Re: Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

I got busy this weekend. I got both motors off, motor stands built and a good look at the bare transom. Here are some pics of the work done.

In the first picture you can see the bow in the upper part of the transom.

In the second and third pictures, I put a 4' level against the transom and measured the gap. It is pulled out about an inch from top of the transom to the bottom.

The fourth picture is two of my three helpers. Those two weren't interested in helping until the third one started. Then the arguing began!!!!!

The fifth one is just lifting the second motor off.
 

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Wrencher

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Re: Transom Replacement wider than 8 Feet

Here are some more pictures.

The first picture is of the lower mount bolts. There was rotten wood on the treads of the bolts. You can stick a screwdriver in the holes and dig rotten wood out. What I didn't understand, is that the upper holes and the cutout for the harnesses and cables seem to be solid.

The second picture is my third helper The third pic is one of my motor stands I built.

In the last picture you can see that the area around the lower 4 mounting holes of both motors are sunk in about a quarter of an inch.

Earlier I had mentioned that I had contacted Grady White, and they said that I should use Vinylester resin for the repairs. If they used Vinylester when they built the hull, should I use that, or will Epoxy bond to the Vinylester resin and be stronger.

Thanks, Mark
 

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