Towing Questions for Cobalt 262 with Dorsey dual trailer

[Impulsebuyer]

Okay, I may be an idiot, but I recently bought a 2002 Cobalt 262 with 8.1 Volvo Penta and expected to be able to tow it without referencing my Chevy Tahoe 5.3L with 3.73 gear ratio SUV manual!

I found out that my SUV is rated at 7,600#, however the factory installed hitch is rated at 5,000# or 12,000# with load distributing. So what is the right answer? How do I know if my Dorsey Cobalt trailer is load distributing (if that is even a valid question), and what is the actual limit of my rig, 7,600 or 12,000?

The trailer is 1,650# and the boat dry weight states 4,700 but I think that is with the 5.7L engine and I have the 8.1 so probably closer to 5000 and that is without fuel or water or toys etc. I will be towing this boat at least twice a year over the cascade mountains from Seattle to Eastern WA for family vacations and with three girls in the Tahoe, safety is my first concern.

Any ideas or experiece that you can send my way will be much appreciated.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Towing Questions for Cobalt 262 with Dorsey dual trailer

A load distruting hitch(also called an equilizing hitch) is shown here:

Your receiver is rated 12000# with this type hitch or 5000# with a deadweight hitch.

First thing I would do is get rid of that receiver. The factory receiver is a hunk of junk. When I had my 2002 3/4T Suburban, first thing i did was go to a custom hitch shop and have a better receiver installed. In the back of the shop was a pile of GM receivers that had been removed from customer vehicles.

Your towing capacity is 7600#. The receiver capacity does not determine your max towing capacity. The engine, transmission and gear ratio determine the max tow rating.

I am going to assume you have surge brakes on your trailer. Problem with load distributing hitches is that they are hard to get to work with surge brakes. If I was going to tow with your Tahoe, I would switch out the surge unit for an electric/hydralulic controller so that your brakes work properly. You are going to need the brakes to work very well towing it with that vehicle.

Personally, I would not tow that size boat with a Tahoe. A 3/4 Ton truck would be the minimum for me.

 

[Impulsebuyer]

Re: Towing Questions for Cobalt 262 with Dorsey dual trailer

Bruceb58, thank you for the information, that was very helpful. Not exactly what I wanted to hear, but my situation is much clearer now and I can act accordingly.

I was going to get a load distributing hitch as I had done some research on that front, but did not know that they reduce the effectiveness of the surge brakes on the trailer! I wish there was another option, as I kinda broke the bank on the Cobalt and really didn't plan on adding another vehicle to the mix!

Thanks again.

 

[SuperNova]

Re: Towing Questions for Cobalt 262 with Dorsey dual trailer

Bruce, did they tell you why the receivers were junk? I'm just curious because I tow with an '01 3/4 ton Suburban and I tow a 28' wellcraft and I don't need the hitch giving out on me. Thanks.
--
Stan

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Towing Questions for Cobalt 262 with Dorsey dual trailer

Bruce, did they tell you why the receivers were junk? I'm just curious because I tow with an '01 3/4 ton Suburban and I tow a 28' wellcraft and I don't need the hitch giving out on me. Thanks.
--
Stan

They just aren't very substantial compared to an aftermarket hitch. I had a local hitch shop called Eckhart install a new one on my Suburban. It had a dead weight capacity of 8,000# if I rememebr correctly(have since sold the Sub). The hitch I had installed was also a lot cleaner looking than the stock hitch. It was more tucked up under the bumper.

You can google GM hitch failures and will find many items.

http://www.trailerlife.com/cforum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/15368746.cfm

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Towing Questions for Cobalt 262 with Dorsey dual trailer

Here is a hitch that claims it will work with surge brakes.

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/productinfo/compatibility.php

 

[POINTER94]

Re: Towing Questions for Cobalt 262 with Dorsey dual trailer

Impulse,

I have some additional words to add. First get the balance on the trailer hitch as perfect as you can. You can do this by moving the axles or sometimes the winch stantion. Hopefully you have about 5-600lbs on the hitch. This will help eliminate fishtailing due to imbalance. Also depending on how much fuel and where your gas tank is located in relation to the axles it can effect this balance as you could be looking at several hundred pounds of weight changing your balance point. A balanced rig will not fishtail, unless you get alot of truck traffic which create insane amounts of wind. You won't believe it until one passes you in the rain on a downhill slope. You can't go wrong with weight distribution hitch. Which leaves BRAKES, BRAKES, BRAKES. Bruce is spot on. Do Not attempt this without the best of brakes.

Look into air shocks/air bags. A level well balanced loading gives you the best control. You would be wise to load all your toys in the boat in such a way as to create balance. Placing ice chests and other heavy items in the back of the Tahoe will exaserbate your tailheavy condition and change the geometry of the front suspension. You will most likely need to look into a performance enhancement for the engine. As you go up each 1000 feet in elevation you lose 2% of your horsepower and therefore 2% less towing capasity. I am not familiar with the area you live in but I did make the run from Sacremento east on I80 past lake Tahoe with a trailer and it was a bear. The check engine light kept coming on due to the lack of oxygen. You may want to rent a vehicle for these runs across state or borrow a friends. Do you have a friend or can you afford to change to a 4:10 rear end for additional power? Fairly easy to come across the parts for this job being a Chevy. I am not all that familiar with the 5.3 chevy engine, perhaps there is enough there to do the job, I will let others comment on that.

I would agree with everything Bruce has posted. You are right there and maybe a foot or two over the line. If you make this run I assure you, you won't enjoy it. I have been exactly where you are right now my friend. More boat than truck, and I did get by. But my conditions were somewhat different. I have a lifetime of hauling boats around, and I live in a relatively flat state, and for a trip up the road to the ramp I would say no problem, but I fear you will find yourself on the side of the road with crying kids and messed up truck. Hopefully not. They usually figure in some "service factor" to their tow numbers but I think you are even over that number. (at elevation with a truck load of kids, toys, and stuff) Check the GVTW before leaving and take a trip to a truck scale. You might be suprized, hopefully pleasantly.

Suggestion: Trailer light. Empty gas and water tanks in boat, buy your beverages, food, ice and water when you get to your destination, put yourself on a diet........ And if you have a cockpit cover, snap it on. Windage can play he!! on your control.

Good Luck


BTW, SWEEEEET Boat!

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Towing Questions for Cobalt 262 with Dorsey dual trailer

Fortunately for the poster, the Snoqualmie Pass is only a little over 3000 feet and not over 7000 feet like Echo Pass is at Tahoe. I have a house at Tahoe and live in So Cal so I know that hill very well.

Not sure if airbags are needed if an equilizing hitch is used. If equilizing hitch is used I would definitely look into a electric/hydraulic brake system. Nice thing about going that way is that you can adjust how hard the brakes come on and can set it for more braking going down hill.

The Dorsey trailer is a nice trailer. My brother has one on his 26' Formula. He actually has a partner with his boat that also has a Tahoe that tows it. He is only planning on towing the boat for short excursions.

 

[Impulsebuyer]

Re: Towing Questions for Cobalt 262 with Dorsey dual trailer

Pointer/Bruce:

Thank you both for taking the time to assist me with this dilemma that I have put myself in. I have looked at the hitch on the Tahoe and it is indeed one of the models noted in many hitch related failures that I googled online. So, at this point, I am considering either renting a rig to tow my boat across the state, or borrowing a friends.

Let me request a clarification from you two: If I upgraded my hitch at a reputable tow/hitch retailer, got a load distributing model, considered anti-sway bars, made sure my tahoe's and the trailer (surge) brakes are in top shape, snapped on the tonneau covers, and took my time, do you feel it would still be a less than smart idea to tow my boat?

I am not inclined to change my axle ratio, add air bags, etc. since I am not that technically inclined nor do I plan on having this Tahoe more than a couple more years at best.

I have pulled my old boat and trailer (approx 3,100# total) for years without incident with my factory hitch on the Tahoe, so I know how to tow a boat. However, an 18' Century is a very different animal than the 27' Cobalt as you well know.

Well, thank you both again for the time and energy you have put into helping me on this self-imposed problem! And, thank you Pointer for the compliment on the boat, I have wanted this boat for years and finally pulled the trigger.

All my best. Impulse.

PS. If I decide to look for a used rig just to pull this boat, what specs should I be looking at for optimal performance and safety? Any vehicles you would reccommend considering?

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Towing Questions for Cobalt 262 with Dorsey dual trailer

If you want something similar to your Tahoe, consider a 3/4T Suburban.

If you do decide to tow with the Tahoe, make sure you drive 55 MPH on flats, drive very defensively and drive slower than normal down hills.

Make sure that your surge brakes are working perfectly. This may mean having to replace the wheel and/or master cylinders. My brother's 02 Dorsey trailer needed those parts as well as a new brake line. Not sure if your Dorsey uses the enclosed channels as a frame or not. In his case, the brake line was either corroded or worn from riding inside the enclosed channel and began to leak. His trailer was never in salt water.

 

[Impulsebuyer]

Re: Towing Questions for Cobalt 262 with Dorsey dual trailer

Here is the boat and trailer combination just in case seeing it helps the discussion at all.

 

[POINTER94]

Re: Towing Questions for Cobalt 262 with Dorsey dual trailer

No right or wrong answers here. I am a little "adventerous" when it comes to these things. The first time, I would put the kids in a chase car. This will lighten the load, keep them out of the tow vehicle and provide a car to run "interferance" between you and other traffic and assist in lane changes. It will also provide you with a car if something breaks down. If the elevation is only 3K that is great news. Trailer light, no gas, water as indicated above.

I trailer a boat about the same size with a Ford Expedition. It has the 5.4L and it is acceptable for the job. It is however, rated at almost 9000lb trailering. I don't think the torque spec's on the engine are much different though. I think the electric/hydraulic brakes are the key. If the rig starts to sway, you can simply adjust the brakes to engage slightly during this event. As well, get the trailer correctly balanced. This will benefit you regardless of what you have to tow with in the future. Yes, the anti-sway systems are great, and would be a huge benefit, but you have a fairly low profile boat which is to your benefit. Your trailer is ideally set up for the anti-sway systems, (mine isn't) and you will be able to transfer this type of hitch to any new vehicle fairly inexpensively down the road.

If the hitch is as weak as they say, the couple of hundred bucks to get it replaced will be cheap in the long run. Even for one summer. Breakdowns with a trailer really suck. Make sure your boat insurance has some provisions for trailering. I had a flat a couple of years back and the insurance saved my bacon. Replacing the hitch will be cheaper than renting a truck just one time. Keep the old hitch and if you replace the vehicle perhaps you can have it installed on the new vehicle. Otherwise ebay the unit that is obsolete to recover some of the cost.

Trailer locally to get the feel for the rig. This will tell you the charactoristics of the rig prior to taking a long trip, with kids, away from resourses you know, at a time you want to be using the boat, not fixing it. I would take the truck out of overdrive while towing this rig. I would get that Bimini down as well. It could lead to spider webbing of the glass at the mounting points. If you have airbourne bugs in the area they will be smeared all over the cover to boot.

That is my best advise. But take a couple of 20-30 mile runs around your home on a variety of roads to see how the rig will respond. This will either bolster your confidence or lead you down a different path. Gut reaction looking at the pic (fairly low profile), the trailer, and now knowing you won't be at elevation, would be you will make it (assuming the adjustments listed above). But I can't state it any stronger, get to a scale and weigh this rig. Know the amount of fuel on board when you weigh it, and make allowances (approx 6lbs/gal). And make sure that this rig is balanced to the trailer. You can do it yourself or have someone do it for you, but it will serve you well in the years to come regardless of what you have to tow it with. It may be balanced now, but you never know. I would also have this done by someone who knows what a balanced rig is. That is not always a marina. They hire $8.00/hr help just like other business's.

Good Luck!!