Torsional damper tempval

Jwally

Cadet
Joined
Oct 15, 2012
Messages
26
I have a 93 mercruiser 3.0 and I'm trying to get the torsional damper off. The center of the damper is tapered in so the center bolt in my kit cannot get through to push on the crank shaft. Does anyone know what bolt or tool I need? Manual says J 6978 E
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,880
Its a vibration damper removal tool, you can usually get one at a place like autozone or such. The exact tool is made by Kent Moore and if you google J-6978-E it has places selling them and what they look like.

I use a heavy 3 point puller which screws bolts into the damper.
 

Jwally

Cadet
Joined
Oct 15, 2012
Messages
26
I got the damper off. Now I have other issues. While installing the new damper, the key must have come free and tore the rubber seal. Looks like it's the crankcase oil seal. The manual says I can replace it by prying the old one out and installing the new one. Is this correct? See attached pdf image.
 

Attachments

  • photo.pdf
    901.9 KB · Views: 1

Jwally

Cadet
Joined
Oct 15, 2012
Messages
26
Manual also says I need a special tool to install the seal, but I can't find it anywhere online. I've read some people have had success not using the tool while installing, any insight?
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,880
From your pic it kind of seams t me you got a little frustrated. The hole in the bottom will need to be sealed up, was it drilled or punched?

I have in many cases drilled a small hole in the seal edge and screw in a screw and use a pry tool or slide hammer. To reinstall, it needs to be kept flat and tapped in easy. If you have a large socket, piece of plastic pipe and block of wood and tap it in.

damper.jpg
 

Jwally

Cadet
Joined
Oct 15, 2012
Messages
26
Yeah, I got frustrated. The hole in the bottom is most likely from the bolts when I used the damper removal tool incorrectly and it screwed through. Not sure about your top arrow, that is how it was...the damper did not have a bolt. The damper removal tool bolt had a pointed attachment that seated in that pointed slot of the shaft and used that pressure to remove the damper. So I'm looking at replacing the seal and patching the hole. I found a seal which matches the part number. Take a look at the link. The hole I'll have to patch with JB weld im guessing?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/331829252639?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,880
Per your serial number listed, yes that is the right seal for Merc part number 97335

Yes, if you clean that up good JB should do it
 

Jwally

Cadet
Joined
Oct 15, 2012
Messages
26
Thanks for all of the help. I've never dealt with a half-circular key before and it messed me up. Do you have any tips for driving in the new damper once I get to that point?
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,880
Lay the key in with flat to the crankshaft tapper. If the damper will not slide on with very little force, put the front edge of the key just barely lower then the rear. It should just slide right on and only take torqueing the crank bolt to fully seat it. I do put a light coating of oil on the outer side of the damper so it slides into the seal easier.

If you see any burrs on any edges, use a small flat file to remove them
 

Jwally

Cadet
Joined
Oct 15, 2012
Messages
26
Just thought I would give an update. I removed the old rubber seal and patched the holes with JB weld. Waiting on the new seal, key, and balancer to arrive. When I removed the seal, there was a round spring behind it that flew off. Should I just put this back in the groove of the rear seal before installing the new front rubber seal? Thanks.
 

NHGuy

Captain
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
3,631
No, don't worry. Your replacement seal will have a spring inside it to hold the rubber edge inward against the crank. Also put some oil or assembly lube on the seal lips or crank where they will contact.
 
Top