Tips and tools for rebuild powerhead

[Walker2]

I'll be rebuilding my 1979 Chrysler 115 outboard. I'm going to pick up some tools like torque wrenches, ring compressor etc. Looking for tips like "what not to forget to pick up" or" this would be a good sealer to use" I'm working a good distance from civilization. Any tips would be appreciated. I've purchased a rebuild kit and have had the block properly machined. Thanks in advance.

 

[GA_Boater]

Did you forget to pick up a manual? The book has all the tools used and what sealers, although sealers may have better "modern" alternatives.

 

[Walker2]

I do have a manual. I will scour it =] Thanks

 

[jerryjerry05]

The rebuild???
How much does that include??
New pistons? new rings?
The older pistons needed special tools to be assembled if
your using the old style parts?
The new rings might need adapting to the pistons.(just spent 6-7 hrs.
fitting the rings and pistons in a 98 120 The end gap on the rings was way to
small and needed fitting before they went in)

Maybe a better description of the plans.
Explaining the new parts?

 

[Walker2]

Thanks Jerry, I am replacing the pistons, rings and all bearings and of course gasskets. I ordered a rebuild kit. I had the block bored and they surfaced where the head goes. I have rebuild a couple Chevy motors understand the basics. I went out and bought a couple torque wrenches, ring compressor, ring expander. I have some lithium grease, some red and some blue silicone. I'm working about an hour away from any parts stores. just trying to save some trips. I do have a feeler guage and a manual.I'll start on reassembly this weekend

 

[NashForce125]

I rebuilt an old Evinrude several years ago. I had to get some special sealant to make a seal on the flanges where the crankcase comes together around the crankshaft. I assume the Force motors call for something similar on that flange. I used Loctite 518. Silicone/RTV will just push out due to how tight the metal surface flanges fit and then your crankcase will not pressurize properly.

 

[Walker2]

Thanks NashForce! I believe you're right. I will look for some "Crank-case Sealer". Loctite518 eh? I'll check there first.
Thanks again

 

[Nordin]

Chrysler/Force has a "spagetti" seal at the split between the crank case and cylinder block, but I always use some sealer at the surface too when I do a rebuilt.
I use Loctite gasket sealer, they have one with a pencil in the cap of the bottle.
I use this at other surfaces too to reenforce the gasket and even to hold the paper gasket in right place when doing the assembly.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Black RTV and OMC's gasket sealer and OMC's
bearing assembly grease and WD 40 and trans fluid
is what I use for the rebuild.

The exhaust chest: over time and with a lot of use the
sealing edges get worn away and sealing the cover can
be a B&^%$.
If it's not too late have the machine shop cut .050 off the
block and the cover.

 

[Walker2]

So, my manual tells me to use Loctite D Threadlocker for my upper main bearing and for my connecting rod bolts. Loctie D is $300.00 for 8 oz. Advice?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Lock tite red $5-6 Just about any parts store.
My last post said .050
Should have said .005

 

[Walker2]

Jerry, you.ve been a great help. Thank you. Im glad you changed that to .005 =]

 

[jerryjerry05]

Half an inch would have been a huge cut

 

[Walker2]

The rebuild is finished. Big thanks for all the tips and advice. She runs nice. All I found for break in was double the 2-stroke oil. Can't find in the manual anything else about break in... how long ... RPM... Advice on this would be helpful and much appreciated.

 

[Nordin]

Well run at 25:1, that is good and with different RPM:s.
WOT for just 1 minute and then throttle down.
Do this for about 1 hour plenty of times then you can go for 50:1 mixture.
Then the break in would be done.

 

[Walker2]

Thanks Nordin. Appreciate it

 

[Walker2]

Thanks Nordin. Much appreciated