emoney
Commander
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 2,551
The new "EPA Friendly Portable Fuel Tank" and my "not-so-EPA friendly" 1995 Force 120
I'm running my '95 120 on a portable tank until I know for certain what's inside the built-in. Previous Owner is believed to have not used this boat a lot recently, and I don't care for the "varnish smell" when I open the fuel fill door. So, the way I've been "raised" is 'When in doubt, drop back and punt'. I even went to the effort to have the dealer throw in a 12 gallon plastic tank, little did I know there had been a "change" to way a tank is constructed.
I've learned a little bit about these new tanks, mainly the hard way. First day in the driveway, noticed the tank "swelling" quite a bit and saw it was forcing gas to the motor where it was leaking at the connection and running down the leg. I initially thought it was the heat & sun until I went to start it after the maintenance was done and noticed it still leaking at this connection. So, I did the smart thing and came inside and searched iboats looking for an answer.
Which leads me to here. What I haven't found was what I need to add to my outboard to compensate for this different tank. I've found a Mercury Bulletin that talks about an "in-line vent", is this the thing to buy? I went so far this past weekend to just switch out to my good old 6 gallon tanks (I still have two of these), but I'd prefer to use the new one if it would work right. I also noticed that on the new tank, the bulb doesn't get hard? The more I pump the more gas leak at the motor. With the old tanks, no leaks so I can pretty much assume the two (engine & new tank) aren't "communicating". Having the vent fully opened made no difference, although having the cap removed did. Just don't want to be out on the Gulf at WOT with fuel cap laying on the deck.
What's the proper way to set-up for these new tanks?
I'm running my '95 120 on a portable tank until I know for certain what's inside the built-in. Previous Owner is believed to have not used this boat a lot recently, and I don't care for the "varnish smell" when I open the fuel fill door. So, the way I've been "raised" is 'When in doubt, drop back and punt'. I even went to the effort to have the dealer throw in a 12 gallon plastic tank, little did I know there had been a "change" to way a tank is constructed.
I've learned a little bit about these new tanks, mainly the hard way. First day in the driveway, noticed the tank "swelling" quite a bit and saw it was forcing gas to the motor where it was leaking at the connection and running down the leg. I initially thought it was the heat & sun until I went to start it after the maintenance was done and noticed it still leaking at this connection. So, I did the smart thing and came inside and searched iboats looking for an answer.
Which leads me to here. What I haven't found was what I need to add to my outboard to compensate for this different tank. I've found a Mercury Bulletin that talks about an "in-line vent", is this the thing to buy? I went so far this past weekend to just switch out to my good old 6 gallon tanks (I still have two of these), but I'd prefer to use the new one if it would work right. I also noticed that on the new tank, the bulb doesn't get hard? The more I pump the more gas leak at the motor. With the old tanks, no leaks so I can pretty much assume the two (engine & new tank) aren't "communicating". Having the vent fully opened made no difference, although having the cap removed did. Just don't want to be out on the Gulf at WOT with fuel cap laying on the deck.
What's the proper way to set-up for these new tanks?