The joys of boat owner$hip?

[dingbat]

The compostion of stainless causes it to work harden, I.e. material gets harder when bent, formed or drilled. Heat buildup in the contact area is your enemy. The trick to drilling stainless is drill pressure and sufficient quanties of coolant. Sharp bits, slow speed. Lots of pressure, lots of fluid. Start with small bit and work your way up.

 

[JaCrispy]

I've been going through the same stuff as you with all the minor repairs. I couldn't imagine paying someone to do all this work. Haven't spent much money but it's been a crapload of work. I also restore vintage bikes, mainly dirtbikes but I have a restored Z1-B I ride too.

I went out for the 3rd time on my boat Saturday checking out some repairs, etc. I actually spent the most money on that afternoon than all the repairs Ive made combined by trusting my fuel gauge. "DOH!" got 3-4 miles out and ran out of fuel. $405 for 5 gal of fuel from a towing company.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I use Tef Gel to install the stainless fasteners to prevent galling

 

[jc55]

If you've spent most of your teenage years wrenching on carbureted small block Chevys, I/O's can be fun to work on. If you have a decent job and are not a "boating survivalist" (like the last owner apparently), I just assume I'll have to replace everything. I used to baby my 1990 Baja. I wanted to sell it but the shift bellows was starting to crack. Even though it didn't need it, I replaced the gimbal brng, bellows, u-joints, nylon lock nuts, thermostat, any questionable hoses, new EVERYTHING. I sold it in 24 hours, full asking price, and the new owner went boating that day trouble free.

Piece of mind out on the water is just something you can not put a price on. Sure, anything can happen, but where I boat, there is no towing service and mostly commercial traffic during the week. You're doing the right thing Motorcylepilot. You're gaining on years of lack of maintenance and you're gonna have a really nice rig in the end. Oh, and one more thing...never, ever beat on u-joints with a hammer. Even if you are taking them out!

 

[jc55]

If you've spent most of your teenage years wrenching on carbureted small block Chevys, I/O's can be fun to work on. If you have a decent job and are not a "boating survivalist" (like the last owner apparently), I just assume I'll have to replace everything. I used to baby my 1990 Baja. I wanted to sell it but the shift bellows was starting to crack. Even though it didn't need it, I replaced the gimbal brng, bellows, u-joints, nylon lock nuts, thermostat, any questionable hoses, new EVERYTHING. I sold it in 24 hours, full asking price, and the new owner went boating that day trouble free.
Piece of mind out on the water is just something you can not put a price on. Sure, anything can happen, but where I boat, there is no towing service and mostly commercial traffic during the week. You're doing the right thing Motorcylepilot. You're gaining on years of lack of maintenance and you're gonna have a really nice rig in the end. Oh, and one more thing...never, ever beat on u-joints with a hammer. Even if you are taking them out!

 

[Gyrene]

I am semi-retired from the Marines, so I have plenty of time on my hands and I get into mischief if I don't stay busy.

Isn't that like semi-pregnant? Either you are or you aren't.....

 

[Cptkid570]

How much do you think you will have into the boat when it is ready for the water? $1000 for the boat + mechanical items + cosmetic items (upholstery) = ?

 

[motorcyclepilot]

How much do you think you will have into the boat when it is ready for the water? $1000 for the boat + mechanical items + cosmetic items (upholstery) = ?

I'm into it for about $2500 in all ($1000 + $1500), but that includes parts, tools I didn't already own, title and registration, etc... I think the upholstery cost me about $400which included an older Pfaff sewing machine, about 9 yards of Marine vinyl, plywood and varnish and other materials. I had to replace all upholstered surfaces due to wear and rot. The original engine hatches were barely holding together.

 

[motorcyclepilot]

I've been going through the same stuff as you with all the minor repairs. I couldn't imagine paying someone to do all this work. Haven't spent much money but it's been a crapload of work. I also restore vintage bikes, mainly dirtbikes but I have a restored Z1-B I ride too.

I went out for the 3rd time on my boat Saturday checking out some repairs, etc. I actually spent the most money on that afternoon than all the repairs Ive made combined by trusting my fuel gauge. "DOH!" got 3-4 miles out and ran out of fuel. $405 for 5 gal of fuel from a towing company.

Hey there, I've done quite a few bikes myself. At one time I had 22 in the garage and realized I couldn't collect the whole set. I miss them all! Right now I am on a 1982 Honda CX500 Turbo.

I know what it's like needing a tow. I paid over $400 to have my motorhome pulled ten feet. We were in the California desert when the road gave way. It came to rest at nearly 45 degrees and resting on the frame. It happened at night and the tow didn't get to us until ten in the morning.

 

[motorcyclepilot]

Isn't that like semi-pregnant? Either you are or you aren't.....

I still entertain the delusion I'll find a job that is as rewarding as being a Marine.

Semper Fidelis

 

[Fireman431]

The biggest issue is that you bought a $1000 boat....you get what you pay for in most circumstances.

 

[motorcyclepilot]

The biggest issue is that you bought a $1000 boat....you get what you pay for in most circumstances.

I agree, though I feel like I got a good value. What was at first a great price is now a good price. I expect my boat to be worth 4 to 5 thou by the time it's seaworthy with an investment of around $2500 cash and about one month's labor (mine). Wow, I work for cheap!

 

[motorcyclepilot]

No Title

I finished re-assembling the outdrive today. Had a difficult time chasing the oil seal into its hole, but I finally outsmarted it. Also, I lowered the upper unit onto the lower unit that was in the stand my daughter and me built. Couldn't see what was lining up, so my lovely wife lent me her eyes and helped me guide it in properly. I torqued everything to spec and realized I could use a set of crowfoot wrenches to get to a couple of the nuts. Tomorrow I will try to get the trim sender/switch wire retaining clamp out so I can repair the wires.

Any suggestions as to the proper tool to get in that recess? I already have the bell housing off.

 

[motorcyclepilot]

Today I managed to bend a 12-point 7/16 box end wrench into a high-offset, about 1". It was the right tool for removing the trim switch wire retainer plate. After getting that off, I had a difficult time tracing the wires behind the engine. They ran behind the exhaust elbow. I have to replace the exhaust 'flapper' anyway, so I remove it, worried that the two bolts are rusted in solid. I let them soak in PB for a couple hours and they came out nice and smoooooooth. :lol:

I need a new exhaust elbow. The inner (exhaust) pipe is rusted completely through in the form of long cracks at least 6 inches long. Looks like about $175 part. Oh dear...I hear that dreadful sucking sound as money is drained from my wallet...Unless someone out there has an extra one laying around?

It looks like I may be able to repair the trim limit switch. There was about 2 feet of extra wire tied off near the trim pump.

 

[motorcyclepilot]

No Title

Trim limit switch is now repaired. An easy fix. The wires were held to the terminals inside with setscrews so I just cut off the bad wire and stripped it back. Wish I had some black heat shrink in the right size, so blue will have to do for now.

 

[Chris1956]

Those trim limit and trim gauge senders break a lot in salt water. You will find that you do not need them, after you get used to the boat. You will trim by sound and feel.

 

[motorcyclepilot]

Those trim limit and trim gauge senders break a lot in salt water. You will find that you do not need them, after you get used to the boat. You will trim by sound and feel.

Believe it or not, the limit switch was still working, but I was worried about what could happen if the wires shorted. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Cptkid570]

Those trim limit and trim gauge senders break a lot in salt water. You will find that you do not need them, after you get used to the boat. You will trim by sound and feel.

I was thinking the same thing. You know you are being thorough with your boat when you care whether or not those work. Mine haven't work in... hmmm, I don't know if they have ever worked.

 

[motorcyclepilot]

Yesterday I installed the trim switch wiring. It went back in easier than it came out, actually, probably because of the wrench I modified. I installed the bilge fan and re-installed the trim pump.

Today I decided it was time to put all the bellows in and attempt to get the bell housing back on. I found it easier to get the exhaust bellows in when I temporarily installed the two pivot pins for the bell housing. All went well except I was thoroughly unable to get the aft end of the drive bellows on. It seemed like the adhesive was sticking way too well too early and preventing it from sliding in place.

I have seen mention of a 'sticky' that covers this, so I am looking...

 

[Cptkid570]

When I did mine, I just pushed the bell housing in real hard with one hand and reached into the inside of the bellow with the other hand and kind of pulled it, with my fingers, towards me. Don't know if that made sense.