The 2010 FrankenMerc Project

sschefer

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Re: The 2010 FrankenMerc Project

The FrankenMerc post passes 4,500 views today!!!
 

madgadget

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Re: The 2010 FrankenMerc Project

As always its awesome. You should do an old skool I6 next :) As you going to dyno this to see how much power it makes in the end?
 

sschefer

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Re: The 2010 FrankenMerc Project

As always its awesome. You should do an old skool I6 next :) As you going to dyno this to see how much power it makes in the end?
Dyno, humm. Nah, I'd have to ship it out. I'll use the transom dyno method. If the boat stands on the transom when I nail it, I done good.

Re the old school I6... funny, I almost bought a 1500 the other day just to get one under my belt but then I thought.. the motors I'm doing now are going obsolete fast so I need to be looking to the newer stuff if I'm going to sharpen my brain.
 

Faztbullet

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Re: The 2010 FrankenMerc Project

I'll do a mid 80's inline if ya'll really want one done.....
 

luvtoboat1

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Re: The 2010 FrankenMerc Project

Man this is a great thread!! How about i send you my 92 2.5 200 with 330 hrs on it and never opened up??? to do your magic?? :D
 

sschefer

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Re: The 2010 FrankenMerc Project

Man this is a great thread!! How about i send you my 92 2.5 200 with 330 hrs on it and never opened up??? to do your magic?? :D

You want magic, send that puppy to Jay Smith and let him work his magic. I wish I had the equipment he has! Jay averages around 3500.00 for a make over and that's a lot cheaper than I can do it. If I had wholesale accounts at the distributors I might get close but he has this down to a science. You ought to give him a call and tell him I sent you.
 

sschefer

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Re: The 2010 FrankenMerc Project

O.K. lets talk wrist pin circlips. The ones that came with the pistons had me scared so I ordered a set of Merc clips. Those arrived today and I changed them. I'm sure glad I did because a couple of the came out way too easy. The Merc clips set in perfectly and are tight like they're supposed to be.

It's another one of those situations where if it doesn't feel right, do it again until it does.

I then assembled the crank. I did not lap the sealing rings like some of the race motor builders do. I just don't see it as being necessary or even helpful. There is too much slop in the grooves and the grooves aren't perfect enough for me to say the lapping is going to reduce wear. It's not done to improve sealy by the way.

Here's the assembled crank.. Note that the oil gear is on the crank. Taking it out on the 7 ring cranks would leave a large hole in #2 and filling it in would restrict oiling to the center main so you must put it back on. Remember to use Loctite 271 (red) on the screws.

frank014.jpg


The crank was first washed in warm soapy water with the lower main already installed. Then is was blown dry with compressed air and immeditatley oiled with 2 stroke oil. The bearings were aslo drenched in two stroke oil.

The crank is then laid into place in the block and the center main bearings adjusted so that the fall onto the pins in the block. The sealing rings are turned so the openings are all facing up. These will be centered up after the rods are fitted to the crank.

frank018.jpg


The upper and lower bearing caps are slid into place without the O rings and held loosely with the bolts. This is the fitting stage. Once the rods are bolted on we'll pull the end caps and check the fit of the front half.

The reason you don't put the O rings on now is because you can pinch them during the fitting process and they will leak.

Here's the upper bearing holder/cap -

frank019.jpg


Here's the lower -

frank022.jpg


I always put new seals in the bearing caps. It's just like change the bearing seals on your trailer wheels except you put a couple of drops of red 271 loctite on them. You need to buy these separately, they do not come in the gasket set. There are three, two in the lower and one in the upper and they are identical.
 

sschefer

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Re: The 2010 FrankenMerc Project

I'm back from vacation and waiting on parts to arrive before I get back on finishing up Frank. The fishing was great. Nothing beats a view like this in the morning..

EagleLake2010004.jpg


or this -

EagleLake2010003.jpg


But then there's alway the neighborhood pet that just has to stop and pee on your lawn --

EagleLake2010deer.jpg


Parts should start rolling in on Thursday and I may get the block bolted together this weekend..
 

sschefer

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Re: The 2010 FrankenMerc Project

Parts are on back order estimated delivery dates are out the window. Oh well, might just have to go fishing again this weekend.. Nice thing about a project motor. I don't need it, I just want it.
 

sschefer

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Re: The 2010 FrankenMerc Project

Rod bearings and cages got here yesterday. Two new waterpump kits also arrived. I want to go fishing tomorrow so I changed the waterpumps in both my other motors. Rod bolts aren't here yet. They're the hold up now.
 

sschefer

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Re: The 2010 FrankenMerc Project

Installed the rod bearings.. When you install the bearings, you put a very, very thin coat of 2-4-C on the rod bearing and crank surfaces. Then you dip the bearings in 2 stroke oil and put them in place.

Aligning the caps correctly is critical since these are snap broken caps and can only go on one way. If you get it wrong there will be a visible line where the rod and cap join. If you get it right, you won't be able to see the line without some sort of magnification.

Here's what that looks like... The gold portion is not where the break is it's about an 1/8" below it -

rods002.jpg


And here they are all in -

rods001.jpg


The rod bolts are just in hand tight. These will be replaced with the new rod bolts when they arrive on the 30th..
 

saumon

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Re: The 2010 FrankenMerc Project

Just a note to thoses planning a rebuild: always replace the rodbolts as they are torque-to-yield type and be sure you have a 1/4'' 12 points socket for them. It may be easy to find one or not, depending where you live.

To sschefer: are you sure it's 2-4-C and not needle bearing assembly lubricant? I always thought 2-4-C was more a pivot points and wheel bearings grease and not suitable for internal parts...
 

Dukedog

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Re: The 2010 FrankenMerc Project

Just a note to thoses planning a rebuild: always replace the rodbolts as they are torque-to-yield type and be sure you have a 1/4'' 12 points socket for them. It may be easy to find one or not, depending where you live. /QUOTE]

Uh, think its a 5/16 12 point..............unless its tha hot rod 3/8.
 

Faztbullet

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sschefer

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Re: The 2010 FrankenMerc Project

Before bying the right stuff, i've already used vaseline as it's petroleum soluble.

Vasoline has a high parafin base, not fuel soluable and not good unless used extremely sparingly.

The manual does state to use needle bearing assembly lube. I use 2-4-C in such a small amount that it only serves to cushion the initial startup impacts. This advice was given to me by folks that build high performance engines and I have used it a few times now without any repercussions.

If you don't want to use I won't criticize you.
 

saumon

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Re: The 2010 FrankenMerc Project

Don't worry, i don't criticize you, you're lightyears ahead of me when it come OB rebuild. I've only done a few midrange (40 to 90hp) and nothing near the sport cut you give them. I learn a lot from your detailed posts.
 
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