Stop Leak?

[Boomyal]

Any one know of a tried and true stop leak that does not cause other issues? The aluminum radiator in my E150 is starting to weep where the top tank attaches to the alumimum core. It is not severe but enough to smell it when you walk past the front of the van. The sad part is that the radiator was recently removed during a head gasket job.

I would sure like to be able to get a bit more time out of it while I recover from the cost of the head gasket repair. As it is, I have loosened the radiator cap so the cooling system will not pressurize. What I do not want to do is to use something that could cause other problems.

 

[Boat Doctor1]

Barrs leaks -makes a really good - blocksealer / radiator sealer-its for cracked blocks & heads!! Stuff will work yet= must follow its instructions!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Napa here sells it!=not in walmart!!

 

[gm280]

Usually that type radiator has some little tabs the hold it tight against the gasket to the core section. If it is leaking maybe you can see if you can tap the tabs to reseal it again. When you add sealants, you take the risk of sealing over some flute as well and compromising the cooling capability. Not sure what a new one costs, but usually a hundred dollars or so cures those leaks with life time warrantees as well. And then no more worries or makeshift fixes either! JMHO!

 

[Boomyal]

Usually that type radiator has some little tabs the hold it tight against the gasket to the core section. If it is leaking maybe you can see if you can tap the tabs to reseal it again. When you add sealants, you take the risk of sealing over some flute as well and compromising the cooling capability. Not sure what a new one costs, but usually a hundred dollars or so cures those leaks with life time warrantees as well. And then no more worries or makeshift fixes either! JMHO!

I'll check those tabs, gm. I realize that the radiator will eventually need to be replaced. It is not only the cost of the radiator that I am trying to avoid at this moment but the cost or hassle of replacing it.

 

[TexMonty]

I have used ground pepper on some of my off road hunting rigs and it worked well.

 

[bigdee]

Good stuff. Can also be bought at GM dealerships. http://paceperformance.com/i-648573...m-engines-other-gm-iron-aluminum-engines.html

 

[Chad Flaugher]

I've used the Barrs stop leak with no problems. On the other hand, I agree with gm280. I just put a new radiator in one of my trucks. It cost me about $170 for the radiator, and about 2 hours of my life. Even in a van it shouldn't be that tough of a DIY project.

Side note: If you decide to use stop leak, make sure you flush your cooling system after you replace the radiator. Even better, have it professionally purged at a shop.

 

[gm280]

When I was talking about stopping up the flutes, there are other issues with those flutes as well. Every vehicle has a heater. And that heater is nothing more then a little small radiator as well. It has the flutes in it as well and anything you put in your cooling system will flow through that heater core also. Now I know all too well how much work it takes to change heater cores doing a couple in the last few years myself. I can tell you, a simple radiator change is a walk in the park compared to any heater core. The heater cores cost in the $30 to $40 dollar or there about range for the ones I've changes. But the labor can easily go over $1000 dollars depending were it is located and how many things have to be removed to get to it. Like the total removal of the entire dash inside the vehicle for starters. So use those stop leak products with much care... JMHO!

 

[bruceb58]

Replace your radiator. Don't use stop leaks. If you use this vehicle to tow with ,it will reduce the effective cooling.

 

[bigdee]

Good stuff. Can also be bought at GM dealerships. http://paceperformance.com/i-648573...m-engines-other-gm-iron-aluminum-engines.html

Will not stop up flutes in heater core or affect cooling.....unless you over do it! Has been an authorized warranty procedure by ford and GM for years.

 

[rockyrude]

Agree with GM on this, the passages in the heater core are just small enough that the stop leak clogs them up first. Its happened several times to me, won't ever use the stuff.

 

[Boomyal]

Ya'll have convinced me. I took a close look and it does not look too difficult to pull the radiator. That and a $95.00 radiator off of ebay sure beats the $400 quote I got from a local shop. It also beats plugging up a heater core. I'll save the Stop Leak for when I have an emergency.

 

[Chad Flaugher]

Good choice. :clap2:

 

[bruceb58]

Yes, good choice.

 

[Boomyal]

Can someone describe how the transmission cooler line fittings affix to the brass radiator tubes at the bottom of the radiator?

 

[MTboatguy]

What year is the van Boom, a number of the newer Ford products have the same type of connections on the radiator for the tranny lines as they use on the fuel system, you need to get the tool, that slips along the line and disengages the clips that hold them together, You will know if that is the type you have if there is a round cap looking connection in the line, if so, you can pick a kit up at Auto Zone for about $8 bucks, that will contain several different sized clip release tools that will work on these.

 

[dannys2004glastron175mx]

like this http://www.ebay.ca/itm/3450-6-PC-FU...t=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item2ec7d440f0

 

[MTboatguy]

I bought the Lisle kit at O'Reilly auto for $7.97 and it is a 6 piece kit with a holder, it is a part number 37000.

 

[bobsquatch]

Should just be flare nuts. You may have to buy some nipples to fit it up. Also I would not leave that radiator cap loose that lack of pressure me be why you're Head gasket failed. that weeping radiator may have been going on for a while. Without that pressurizing the system the coolant will boil in the hot part of the engine creating pressure where it shouldn't be.

 

[MTboatguy]

Should just be flare nuts. You may have to buy some nipples to fit it up. Also I would not leave that radiator cap loose that lack of pressure me be why you're Head gasket failed. that weeping radiator may have been going on for a while. Without that pressurizing the system the coolant will boil in the hot part of the engine creating pressure where it shouldn't be.

Bob, a good majority of vehicles now a days, do not use flare nuts any longer, I have 4 of them that use the newer clip systems that need the special tools to remove them.