Starting from scratch, NEW everything electrical.

Calhere

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 17, 2008
Messages
123
Restoring 1962 Dorsett Cabin Crusier, identical to this one except yellow and white http://www.vintageglassboats.com/dorsett20.html well the previous owner added a bunch of things over loaded the fuse block and had a small fire. Well Im not very familiar with Marine Electronics, or Marine Electric systems, but it cant to to very different then autos, right? Well I got the Switch in and it has power (according to the ohms meter) so now I am moving to the New Fuse Block and well any advice would be helpful. Here is the Fuse Block I have. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=295
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,769
Re: Starting from scratch, NEW everything electrical.

You should not be measuring voltage using the ohms scale on an ohm meter. The voltage ranges are for that purpose. Here is how a single circuit makes its way from the battery, through the fuse panel, through a device, and back to the battery.

Basicwiring.jpg


Here is a basic, generic wiring diagram that will work for most boats.

InstrumentPanelWiring.jpg
 

Calhere

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 17, 2008
Messages
123
Re: Starting from scratch, NEW everything electrical.

This is awesome thank you.
 

Woodnaut

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 4, 2007
Messages
634
Re: Starting from scratch, NEW everything electrical.

Cal, I built my boat and therefore did a complete wiring job on it. (Two batteries, two bilge pumps, two fuel tanks, nav and cabin lights, horn, radio, GPS, etc.) Here are a couple of suggestions.

- Use high quality marine wire. Marine wire is usually tinned, which means it is not going to suffer the same type of corrosion you will see with plain copper wire. There really is a difference. Also, the jacket is usually more resistant to attack by certain liquids.

- Do not under size the wires. It is better to go slightly oversized on the wire size. Ground wires and battery cables, however, are different. I definitely went oversize on those.

- Use the proper size ring terminal. Many people use fork terminals, but I prefer ring terminals even though they are more trouble to install. Please note that every crimp-on terminal has two sizes associated with it - the first is size of the wire, and the second is the size of the lug (screw) that it is connecting to. Always select the correct size for both. Use a good crimping tool, practice your crimping skills and make each one as close to perfect as you can.

- Route the wires in a well organized manner. Use ty-wraps (zip ties) to keep in neat bundles, and secure to the boat every 6 to 12 inches with cable clamps. There are nylon ones available, or the really nice stainless steel ones with the black rubber insulation/cushion on them. The SST ones are very rugged, seldom break and last many years.

- For unprotected areas where wires might get bumped, chaffed or snagged, use sprial wrap on the outside of the bundle. Use the high quality UV-resistant black stuff and not the thin, cheap, clear stuff. (I realize that putting this stuff on can be a hassle, but look on the bright side - you get to work on your boat!) Follow up with the use of cable clamps as described above.

- Use Dielectric Grease. I have found this to be extremely effective in salt water. Specifically, I put a little dielectric grease on the end of every wire before I put it in a crimp terminal. Also, after crimping, I put a little dielectric grease on every ring terminal and lug (screw) before I attach it. Follow by tightening securely. I follow this same technique when making connections on battery cables. Grease first, then make the connection. It can be a little messy, but you can clean up when its all over. I am definitely of the opinion that you will have more years of reliable service and significantly fewer problems if you use dielectric grease on a connection before you assemble it rather than smearing it on a connection after you have already made it. Use your good judgement when applying dielectric grease. Big globs of the stuff will attract dirt and cause leakage paths, but just the right amount will give you years of reliable service.

By following the few suggestions that I have made above, I'm sure that you can at least double - if not triple - the cost of the wiring job you have planned. :) Nevertheless, a wiring problem when you're out on the water is a complete hassel, not easily fixed, and can even be a show stopper. Get it right when you're on the shore and you won't have to worry about it when you're out on the water. Best of luck with your project - Woodnaut
 

TerryMSU

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 31, 2007
Messages
743
Re: Starting from scratch, NEW everything electrical.

Woodnaut has some VERY good points. Here is one more suggestion. You can get ring terminals and butt splices with a piece of waterproof heatshrink attached to them. They are not cheap, but well worth the money. Highly recomended especially for splices. The ring terminals are less so, as they are inherently open at one end.
 

Calhere

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 17, 2008
Messages
123
Re: Starting from scratch, NEW everything electrical.

Well since i have so much electrical stuff to do i went out and bought one of the pro kits (money isnt much of an object ive been lucky lately. i have all the diffrent sizes of terminal connectors butts, forks, the round ones, and plug type in varried sizes and also the heat shrink ones as well as a soddering iron.
 

HONKER1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 1, 2007
Messages
245
Re: Starting from scratch, NEW everything electrical.

You just opened another debate on this website. Some feel that marine connections should NOT be soldered. Crimping is far better. But if you do decide to solder, do NOT use acid core solder. Try your luck using resin core solder. Whether you use solder or crimp, I definately would cover it with a good marine heat shrink cover. I am so paranoid that I even use liquid tape to cover the spots were air can get at the bare wire.
 

waterone1@aol.com

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
1,235
Re: Starting from scratch, NEW everything electrical.

Oh carp....not the dreaded solder v/s crimp debate again !!!!! Seriously though, the above posts are spot-on. I would only add the following for your consideration : 1) I always like the idea of having a battery disconect switch between the battery and every load ( with the possible exception of bilge pump). 2) get the manufacturer's specs on what the generator or alternator can put-out. What we do on today's boats, is far different from what classic boats were designed for. They were not thinking of trolling motors, multi-amp stereo systems, radar, gps, etc. Depending on your usage, you may even want to include a second, "house" battery.
Above all, remember your breakers and fuses must protect the wiring from the worst case situation.
 
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