Solenoid problem 50 hp Force 1989

[bowhuntrrl]

[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica] went to start my '89 50 Force today before a prospective buyer came to look at it. It started just fine, in fact almost too easy. A bit later, it started acting weird when I tried to start it, no click at all from the relay and the voltage would drop from 12.9 when trying to start to 0 V. After some trouble shooting, I think I have it narrowed down to the solenoid. If I jump directly across the 2 big terminals, nothing happens. I metered the solenoid and I only get 3.7 ohms resistance between the 2 small terminals. It seems to me that this should be higher and that it must be shorted, that would explain the huge voltage drop when trying to energize the starter. Does anyone know what the resistance between the two small terminals on the solenoid should be ???

I'm pretty sure that's the problem because when I took the solenoid out, I crossed the 2 big terminals (bat and starter)and the starter turned over. Thanks.[/FONT] [FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica][/FONT] [FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica][/FONT] [FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica] Add Your Message Here [/FONT]

 

[eurolarva]

Re: Solenoid problem 50 hp Force 1989

Mine measures 2.4 ohms and it works fine. Disconnect the lead to the starter. Connect a volt meter set to DC volts on both big legs of the starter solenoid. You should read 12 volts or in your case 12.9v till you turn the key to the start position where you will read zero volts. If this is the case your solenoid is fine and I would start looking at the starter. When you turn the key to the on position you are energizing the switch to go to a closed or short position is why you would read zero volts. If this test does not pass make sure all wiring to the solenoid, battery and ignition switch is clean and tight.

 

[bowhuntrrl]

Re: Solenoid problem 50 hp Force 1989

Euro,

One of the large posts connects to the battery, the other to the starter? The large post from the bat. is always hot. One of the small posts connects to ground, and the other energizes the solenoid from the key switch. Now you're saying that when I hook a voltmeter across the 2 large terminals I will read 12 V ??? How can that be ?? I get 12V of course from the bat, terminal on the solenoid, but why would I get it on the starter terminal ??? When the solenoid energizes and sucks the disk up THEN shouldn't I get 12V on the starter side ?

I checked the continuity from the safety switch all the way to the solenoid and it's good. I even tried running a hot jumper to the energizing post on the solenoid and no click at all, like the solenoid went dead. If I touch the sol. bat cable to the sol. starter cable with solenoid completely removed, the starter turns over. If I connect the solenoid and try to jump across the 2 large terminals, nothing happens, which is a large mystery to me since I had previously done this all my life to jump a starter. It seems to me the solenoid is the culprit.

This is driving me nuts, I'm trying to sell this and phone calls are stacking up with guys that want to look at it, and I can't show it.

 

[eurolarva]

Re: Solenoid problem 50 hp Force 1989

When you are not trying to start your battery your starter solinoid is open. This means at the battery terminal you have 12 volts and at the starter terminal you have zero volts because the switch inside the solenoid is open. That is why you will read 12 volts. When you turn the switch to the start position and the motor is in neutral 12 volts goes through the switch then through the neutral interlock switch to energize the solenoid switch. At this point the battery lug and the starter lug are shorted and you will read zero volts. Another way to test the solenoid is to remove it from the motor. connect it to a 10 amp or greater battery charger and connect one lead to the small lug and the other to the ground lug on the solinoid. Connect an ohm meter across the starter lug and the battery lug on the solenoid. When you turn the battery charger on you will read a short or near zero ohms. When the charger is off you will read and open.

I re read your last response and It does indead sound like the solenoid is shot. The problem is that part is no longer availible. Maybe look at ebay to try and find a new one.

 

[4runneradam]

Re: Solenoid problem 50 hp Force 1989

Couldn't he put 12v directly to the starter, bypassing the solenoid? That would tell him if his solenoid is not working.

And couldn't you use a regular automotive solenoid?

 

[bowhuntrrl]

Re: Solenoid problem 50 hp Force 1989

Couldn't he put 12v directly to the starter, bypassing the solenoid? That would tell him if his solenoid is not working.

And couldn't you use a regular automotive solenoid?

That's what I did as one test, took the solenoid out and the starter spins fine. Anyways,[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]I found the problem today. I borrowed a solenoid from a friends Mercury outboard and things worked as they should. I tapped my solenoid and could not hear the plunger, so banged it good and hard until I could hear it. Put it back in to test and it worked ok. I will just order a new solenoid since if it stuck once, it will stick again. Mystery solved, bad solenoid !!![/FONT]

 

[bowhuntrrl]

Re: Solenoid problem 50 hp Force 1989

I re read your last response and It does indead sound like the solenoid is shot. The problem is that part is no longer availible. Maybe look at ebay to try and find a new one.

The part seems to be available from Mercury dealers for $47 or so. There are plenty of other places to get them. I found a replacement solenoid for it for $17 online.

 

[eurolarva]

Re: Solenoid problem 50 hp Force 1989

Glad you got it figured out. It is the choke solenoid that is no longer avalible.

 

[RVM4574]

Re: Solenoid problem 50 hp Force 1989

The choke solenoid is avaliable still. I just bought one for my 1989 50hp Force for 27.00 If it has a mounting bracket on the bottom it will cost 52.00