Seahorse 3 HP

[3899]

Hello, I just bought a Seahorse 3 HP, and just wondered what year it was, and what to gap the sparkplugs? Also, is anybody remanufacturing the decals for it, in case I decide to restore it? The Model # is JW10. The Serial # is 1047609. The plug wire date code is 1-51. Thanks a lot.

 

[rickdb1boat]

Re: Seahorse 3 HP

That's a 1952-1954 model. Gap the plugs, Champion J6C, at .030. ...Don't know about the decals...

Here's some very good reading:

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/Evinrude%203%20HP%20Lightwin%20Outboard%20Boat%20Motor/default.htm ] 1953-1967 Evinrude Johnson 3 HP Tune UP Project[/url]

 

[rickdb1boat]

Re: Seahorse 3 HP

Try here for decals:

http://www.americanoutboard.com/decals/johnson/master_johnson.htm

 

[DHPMARINE]

Re: Seahorse 3 HP

Two reasons to want your motor :

1. you allready own it.

2. you can't buy small 2 cylinder motors anymore.That 3 hp can run sweeter than all the rest.They are all singles,and the more hp,the worse they shake.

DHP

DHP

 

[3899]

Re: Seahorse 3 HP

Hey, thanks a lot. So, these motors are pretty good? Most parts still available? Is the fuel mixture 50:1? Thinking of using it on my lund 16' on some lakes that I can only use less than 10 hp motors.

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: Seahorse 3 HP

It is definitely NOT 50:1, that won't be enough lubrication. The factory fuel mix spec was probably 16:1, but you may be able to get away with 24:1 with today's TCW-3 marine oil. It needs more oil cause it may not have true bearings...motors that vintage sometimes use bushings instead of bearings and the bushings need the extra lube to work properly...otherwise you risk seizure. It will share many parts with similar era jonny's/e-rudes. The links page at http://www.aomci.org lists several outfits that still stock parts for the old iron.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Seahorse 3 HP

Parts are easily available for that engine, both aftermarket and OEM. It was very popular and was made '52-'68, and then tweaked a bit in '69 and then quite a bit in the late '70s (to make it run 50:1 better). And then another major change in the late 80s. It's really too bad they don't still make it.

24:1 with TC-W3 outboard oil and 87 octane gas is just fine for it. In the early 60s OMC changed their old 16:1 ratings to 24:1, around the same time they switched their new outboards to 50:1.


Check out that link Rick gave you. There's lots of good information there including an owner's manual and a parts manual.

 

[3899]

Re: Seahorse 3 HP

Hey, thanks a lot, that link was awesome! I got her running last night! I appreciate everything guys!

 

[F_R]

Re: Seahorse 3 HP

Exact match paint and decals are available from Peter McDowell at http://www.nymarine.ca/ if you want to make that thing look like new. Once you see how sweet they run, you may want to do just that.

Just a hint: Unless they have already been replaced, expect to find bad coils. Don't waste your time trying to make it run on old cracked coils. Fix it right and it will run like a million bucks.

 

[3899]

Re: Seahorse 3 HP

Yea, that's what I just did, new points & coils. Now has great spark. The only things that need redone are the tank ripcord top and lower covers. The rest is like new. The tank has one large goose egg of a dent, not sure how to fix it with out spending a fortune.

 

[3899]

Re: Seahorse 3 HP

Well, I got it dialed in and it purrs like a kitten. Are these known to have a somewhat large amount of oil that comes from exhaust? I may have too much oil in gas now, just to get it running.

 

[F_R]

Re: Seahorse 3 HP

Yes, those old motors had a lot of slop from the exhaust, that's just the way they were in those days. You won't notice it as much on a boat as in a barrel.

You will get lot less smoke if you use Castrol Full Synthetic TC-W3 Outboard oil. And they claim it's bio-degradable. It does give a lot less oil sheen on the lake and it dissapates a lot faster.

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: Seahorse 3 HP

Excessive water residue can also indicate running too rich on the carb settings. Once you get it on a boat (don't do it in a test tank or bucket) lean out the settings to the best running positions. That might clear up some of the residue. Also, running in a bucket will magnify unburned fuel residue as it normally disperses over the water and evaporates or is broken down by sunlight. In a contained area it can't evaporate quickly enough and accumulates, thus appearing like more than it really would be while underway...
- Scott

 

[3899]

Re: Seahorse 3 HP

Thanks alot, I appreciate the replies!