Rinker V170 Restoration Project

kboiler

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Feb 20, 2017
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Hi all. New to the board.
I'm the proud owner of a Rinker V170, 1984, 17', Mercruiser 140, I/O.
Over the past couple of years the floor around the captain seat has started to rot. We've decided to tear it all out and re-do the interior, new deck, new dog house.

I guess my question would be, can this be done by a man with a medium level of skill, and help with the internet? I've been pretty fortunate to fix alot of things through the years with the help of youtube and expert advice, but this seems overwhelming. I've started to tear everything out, and my biggest concern is what I'm going to find once I rip up the floor.

Thoughts?

https://www.iboats.com/sites/defaul...90618_4050032178761826304_n.jpg?itok=HrJZj3G4
 

tpenfield

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You will probably find a lot more work to do once you rip up the floor . . . BUT . . . the short answer is yes, with the Internet you can probably work your way through the demolition and restoration process.

Many have come before you with similar circumstances and skill level, and have prevailed nicely.
 

kboiler

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Feb 20, 2017
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I found a thread on this site with almost the exact same rebuild and boat. Tried to contact him. Hoping he can provide some guidance.
 

kboiler

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I guess my first question would be, how do I get the old deck out? Is it held down by epoxy, or screwed into my fiberglass stringers? I don't see screws anywhere. With the help of a picture i found on the site, I can see where I can run a saw, but how do I pull it up, and how SHOULD it be fastened down currently? Thanks.
 

kboiler

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Also, more questions...

I pulled some carpet off the side walls yesterday, and it left quite the mess of glue and leftover pieces of carpet remnants. How do I get that off? I'm assuming some type of grinder brush? Sounds like a great job for my sons, but let me know what works the best. Thanks. I'll send a picture of that later.
 

kboiler

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image_292544.jpg
Here is the glue on the side panels I'm talking about. Got any suggestions on the best way to get the glue off?
 
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kboiler

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Here is the progress so far. I got some of the wood removed last night. It looks like it was NAILED to the fiberglass stringers. It's a mess. Hoping to get all the wood out tomorrow, and begin the process of cleaning. Hoping to have the new deck in by next weekend. Need to get it turned around in my driveway so the water runs out. B5084A09-BC82-41ED-BF8D-1519679367F9.jpeg
 

Bayou Dave

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LOL.... there is someone here following your project. But, I am not the one to provide some guidance. I am sure others will be along to give you their advice.
Dave
 

chevymaher

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Mar 29, 2017
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Now the dropping the Mike was funny. You got it just suffer it out remove it all. And millions of pictures and measurements. I hit the glue with a grinder while i was grinding. Comes right off.
 

kboiler

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Now the dropping the Mike was funny. You got it just suffer it out remove it all. And millions of pictures and measurements. I hit the glue with a grinder while i was grinding. Comes right off.

What type of grinder pad should I use? I don't want to use something that goes too far into the glass.

And sorry for the sarcastic post, I just really need some help, and not sure where to go. I wasn't sure to what to expect, but was hoping to do this project with help from this board.
 

chevymaher

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for the non grinding things like that I used the 120. It took it right off.

I bought a pack of many sizes. I was new and had no clue what I needed back then. Really it dont got to all come off. Just make it smooth and level the new glue will stick right to it.

If your not using carpet again make it smooth and resin over the sanded area.
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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What are going to put back there? Carpet, glass, paint?
Other than carpet you would want to remove all of it for a proper bond.
 

kboiler

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I guess I’m not sure. What do most people do? I kind of thought carpet on the “walls” looked strange.
 

ab59

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I did the same with my Starcraft Aluminum and the glue with carpet stuck everywhere was a mess to clean up. I took a scraper first and knocked off the thick sturr and followed up with a wire wheel as necessary but I did not have to worry about soft fiberglass being dug out. Chemicals are used by many but again most likely should only be used on Aluminum hulls because you never know what kind of reaction you might get with a glass boat. I would just try the scraper and wire wheel but pay close attention to the glass when using the wheel. there are also flapper discs you might consider . Trial and error can be alot of restoring a boat. I did not worry about getting all the glue off the boat but I did test my new glue and carpet against those areas to make sure that the old glue and the new glue did not have a problem counteracting each other.
There is so much experience here to help you that you will be ok going through your restore , not always timely but even when everyone seems to be " gone fishin " there are so many posts here that are documented with pictures to help you out you will get through it.
The best part of these kind of headaches is the knowledge you gain about your boat and can fix whatever may go wrong with it in the future , Priceless . Nothing better that to be able to do it yourself.
Be patient and think things through , you'll be surprised how much you can figure out.
when you get the deck out you can use cardboard taped together and lay it out where the deck goes and cut a template for the new deck. You can also go down to Home Depot or the other catch all stores and get some heavy brown paper in a roll that stinks but is thick and easy to maneuver , tape it together and make a template from that.
 

kboiler

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Alright, gents. It is time to start buying supplies. I got all the deck out, and grinded down most of the old fiberglass. I still have a couple of places that I need to touch up, and then I need to start cleaning, and lay out a template for the new deck. I have a few questions.

What am I putting underneath the new deck? Just resin like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ODJ8JE/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Also, what is the best fiberglass cloth to use to cover all the areas around the wood?

Thank you for all the help so far. I really appreciate it.

IMG_1945.jpg
 

tpenfield

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A couple of questions for you . . . (sorry if I missed something along the way.)

image_292763A.jpg

Fiberglass stringers (yellow arrows) Right? Have you done a core sample to see if they are filled with water or wet inside?

Fuel tank (red arrow) Is it a plastic tank? Have you pulled the tank to inspect it and the area underneath the tank?
 

kcassells

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Alright, gents. It is time to start buying supplies. I got all the deck out, and grinded down most of the old fiberglass. I still have a couple of places that I need to touch up, and then I need to start cleaning, and lay out a template for the new deck. I have a few questions.

What am I putting underneath the new deck? Just resin like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ODJ8JE/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Also, what is the best fiberglass cloth to use to cover all the areas around the wood?

Thank you for all the help so far. I really appreciate it.


Absolute no to bondo. You want marine grade poly. Iboats sells it as well as others. Check uscomposites. They also provide great uses for applications and details etc.
 

kboiler

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Feb 20, 2017
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Absolute no to bondo. You want marine grade poly. Iboats sells it as well as others. Check uscomposites. They also provide great uses for applications and details etc.

Are you saying Marine Grade Polyester? I'll check uscomposites. Thanks.
 

kboiler

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A couple of questions for you . . . (sorry if I missed something along the way.)



Fiberglass stringers (yellow arrows) Right? Have you done a core sample to see if they are filled with water or wet inside?

Fuel tank (red arrow) Is it a plastic tank? Have you pulled the tank to inspect it and the area underneath the tank?

The fuel tank is metal, not plastic. I didn't pull the tank completely, but I did a once over to make sure everything looked good.

I haven't done a core sample on the glass stringers. I guess I didn't want to put a hole in them. How would I go about doing that? Probably a good idea to be safe.
 
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