Results of 1st Start of 1985 Ev VRO 140 After 3 Years Asleep

hbron

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I started my 1985 Evinrude VRO 140 today (out of water) after it had not been operated in 3 years.

I did the following prep:

1) Siphoned out all the old fuel and filled the tank with 10 gallons fresh. I siphoned the fuel out using the fuel line outlet on the transom - very handy!

2) Checked fuel filter.

3) Lubed and soaked the cylinders with TCW-3, and made sure the flywheel turned freely.

4) Cleaned the spark plugs.

QUESTION #1: Before the first start attempt, when I pumped the fuel line bulb (until it was firm) I noticed (the engine cover was off) fuel seep out of what I believe is the fuel pump. The fuel came out of a seam where two pieces of plastic come together.

I have attached an image with an arrow pointing to where the fuel seeped out. It came from the seam where the two plastic pieces with the visible screws there come together. Not sure if there is or should be a gasket in there or not.

My friend who was helping me thinks this was caused by the abnormal pressure I put on the fuel line while pumping the bulb hard - he said he noticed that there was not any seepage from the same spot, or anywhere, while the engine was running. I am no Arnold Schwarzenegger or anything, but I could definitely see that I may have pumped the bulb too hard.

I need to verify this. It does not seem normal that fuel would would leak out anywhere when I pump the bulb, and I am concerned that this could be a bad gasket or part. Any ideas?

------------------On to first start attempt-------------

I hooked up a flusher, turned on the water and proceeded to try the first start.

On the third try or so after pumping the gas and applying the choke she turned over, sputtered and quit; then she turned and ran after a few more tries.

I ran the engine for about 20 seconds or so and then shut it down after noticing there was no water coming out of the engine - suspecting the water pump was not working.

QUESTION #2

Should the water pump start pumping water immediately on starting, or does it take a bit? Does the engine have to warm up before the water pump engages? I expected the water to start pumping out of the engine immediately. Do outboards have thermostats or something to engage the water pumps?

Thank you.
 

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Bob_VT

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Re: Results of 1st Start of 1985 Ev VRO 140 After 3 Years Asleep

YES you have thermostats and there is a bypass to allow water to pass. You should have seen water pumping out.

I would check that the overboard indicator (Tell tale, pee hole whatever you decide to call it;))hose is clear. Remove it from the engine and blow through it or snake it with a piece of plastic weed eater string.

Just as a precaution I would add oil to the fresh gas in case the VRO is not working right. Many people disconnect them.

The water pump turns with the motor regardless of temp .......
Pulling the lower unit off is easy and impellars are available and cheap http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfind...d_poid=109123&gd_row=111&**********=411876811

I would probably concentrate on the water pump first ;)
 

hbron

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Results of 1st Start of 1985 Ev VRO 140 After 3 Years Asleep

Thanks Bob_VT

I did see water coming out, in 3 places; 2 small holes on each side at the back of the engine under the fin of the upper lower case and one dead center just above the fin.

The first image attached is of the 2 holes under the fin, the second is the hole above the fin - each of which peed a steady healthy - just had about 5 beers - stream of water.

I am thinking this may indicate my water pump is operating normal.

The tube shown in the second image was not plugged into the center/above the fin hole, it was just dangling; I am now reading that it should be in that hole as it is an indicator. Is this correct?

What role does the indicator serve? Does it signal the engine or the operator, and where?

If these holes are indeed the tell-tales or pee holes I am reading about on-line, is this the only place water will come out of the engine - even after reaching temp and the thermostat releases? I want to be sure my thermostat releases and know what to look for.

Does anyone have any feedback on the fuel I saw coming out of the "fuel pump"?
 

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tashasdaddy

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Re: Results of 1st Start of 1985 Ev VRO 140 After 3 Years Asleep

read this. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=158086

it does take about 30 seconds for water to get to the overboard indicator.

the fuel pump is leaking between the oil side and fuel side of the pump. it being a 1985 i would spend $200.00 and convert it to a straight premix motor. the VRO2 that it has is know for failure, and replacement cost just for the part is $450.00.

if interested in conversion i can give you part #s and directions.
 

hbron

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Re: Results of 1st Start of 1985 Ev VRO 140 After 3 Years Asleep

Thanks TD, yes please advise.

Are you saying that this conversion would address 2 things:

1) Whatever the heck I saw leaking when I pumped the bulb, and

2) The possibility of failure of the VRO?

My father had a 77 Glastron with a Johnson 135 and we had to add oil. What the heck, better safe than sorry.
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: Results of 1st Start of 1985 Ev VRO 140 After 3 Years Asleep

it is really very simple. you need 2, 0385784 FUEL PUMP ASSY, these are the old style 3 line fuel pumps, pulse line, inlet for fuel/oil, and outlet to motor.

remove existing pump, tank and wiring. all just plugins.

now you will need to extend your pulse line and put a tee in it, to run both pumps.

fuel comes into the bottom pump, then up to the top pump. bottom acts as the pickup pump, top as the pressure pump. just follow the diagram. if not clear, please ask.
 

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hbron

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VRO Leak & Conversion

VRO Leak & Conversion

Thanks Tashasdaddy,

I am a bit low on dough right now.

I am going to tighten the screws down to see if I can stop the leak, and then not pump the bulb so hard.

I picked up a low cost of bypassing the VRO (see below - what do you think) in the meantime. Once I get the funds I will do the conversion to premix as per your directions.

--------HERE ARE THE DIRECTIONS I FOUND------------

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup by doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quanity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off."

My engine E140TLCO was manufactured in 1985 so I think I have the VRO, not the VRO2, so even worse.

I thought the major problem with the VRO was a lack of warning system, so I am not sure if I will end up with an overheat warning system all said and done.

I am considering adding a Cylinder Head Temp and Water Pressure gauge to my boat. Your thoughts?
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: VRO Leak & Conversion

Re: VRO Leak & Conversion

i believe you will find i wrote the basic of those direction, nothing wrong with it. water pressure guage - yes, temp guage is a waste as the temp in different in many places on the head and block.
 
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