Replacing brake lines

truckermatt

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 29, 2009
Messages
384
Re: Replacing brake lines

thanks guy for all the help,

Next saturday when i bring the boat out of hibernation I will look to start taking the brake line off and deciding what to do from there.
 

ricohman

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
1,631
Re: Replacing brake lines

Boat trailer disc brakes do not use residual valves. I know they are available for motorcycles. Thats more of an issue because the mastercylinder can be lower than the brakes.

Residual valves on trailer brake master cylinders are located in the master cylinder. I have seen a lot of Trailer mastercylinders over the years and yet to see the external type.

We are talking about boat trailers here. Not automotive or motorcycles. None of the trailer disc brake manufacturers allow the use of residual valves. All of them have that statement in their directions. Please let me know if you know of any trailer manufacturer that states you can use them.
http://www.championtrailers.com/remove_residual_valve.htm

Here is from the instruction manual for Kodiac disc brakes:
http://www.kodiaktrailer.com/images/pdf/man-installation.pdf

Why would a residual valve be needed for a disc trailer? I've never seen one.
You stated that a residual valves can't be used with discs, and I assumed you meant all discs which is not correct.
Let us say that residual valves are not used on disc braked trailers because that is correct.
And I also change the fluid every year on my bikes and trailers. I think the brake servo in my BMW is worth something like $2500 in Canada and with small volumes of fluid the contamination is much more rapid.
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,480
Re: Replacing brake lines

Why would a residual valve be needed for a disc trailer? I've never seen one.
LOL...that what I was saying all along! Did you happen to miss my statement
bash-head.gif
Boat trailer disc brakes do not use residual valves.
We are talking boat trailer brake systems here or so I thought!
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
11,869
Re: Replacing brake lines

If the OE brake line is where you can get at it, I would run stainless lines from the master back to the rear frame, then run a flex line to the axle, a hard line across the axle and 2 flex lines from that hard line to the wheel cylinders. Using flex lines there will allow you to easily upgrade to discs in the future if you want to. Champion Trailers sells stainless line sets in different lengths so you do not have to cut and flare a brake line. If you measure your distance and call them they will tell you what you need. I put in one of their brake kits about 8 years ago and the only challenging part was snaking the hard stainless line through the frame. After 8 years, salt water the stainless line still looks like new.
 

2300max

Seaman
Joined
Sep 21, 2010
Messages
54
Re: Replacing brake lines

thanks guy for all the help,

Next saturday when i bring the boat out of hibernation I will look to start taking the brake line off and deciding what to do from there.
Keep it simple...I actually used the flex-line set up you're talking about. I've never had any issues and it was a breeze to install. I knew my wheel cylinders were shot , so I took the esay way and replaced the entire backing plates. I only had one set of brakes and added another set for inspection...so going with the kit it was a breeze.
 

truckermatt

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 29, 2009
Messages
384
Re: Replacing brake lines

Update,

I wanted to bleed the brakes again just to see if I could avoid replacing the rustly lines. Well I did and fluid flowed nicely, rust free. So now that the system is bleed and checked for leaks, is there a way to tighten the brakes so they have more pull when stopping, or are they non adjustable?
 

T_Herrod

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 1, 2012
Messages
349
Re: Replacing brake lines

If you had rusty gunk coming out of your brake lines when you bled the brakes you had better take a good look at the wheel cylinders. Remove the brakes and fold the edge of the rubber cups on the ends of the wheel cylinders back and be sure there is no rusty gunk in there. When it comes adjusting the drag on the brakes. There is an adjusting wheel that can be reached with an adjusting spoon or a flat tip screwdriver from the back of the brake. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iN6z0oIZLBk This vidoe shows how to do a car brake but it should give you a good idea how to do it. After you get the brakes adjusted test drive the trailer and check for excessive heat in the brakes. They will be warm but not hot. If you get the brakes to tight the will melt the grease out of the wheel bearings and that will lead to a major failure and very costly repairs.
 

truckermatt

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 29, 2009
Messages
384
Re: Replacing brake lines

Ok, i guess i was mistaken by saying that rusty chunky brake fluid came out on my first post. last fall when i bleed them i actually had clear fluid also, I just had a hard time bleeding them. But today I used a different technique and they bleed great.

The old MC was full of rust, but was also empty for a few years.
 
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