Replaced Power Pack today. Got Instant results! Yea!!!

[77Lark]

So I rolled the dice and... viola! Fired right up. If you read my earlier post you'll see what I did to troubleshoot.

I will keep the old part if anyone needs readings off of it.

I read between terminal 6 and 11 and read 1.4 m ohms one way and 1.9 m ohms the otherway indicating the diode was blown. I was nervous when I read 1.4 m ohms on the new one but was glad to see I read nothing the other way. It was I belive HighTrim who told me to test that.

Sorry if I'm wrong but thank you very much everyone who helped me troubleshoot.

I'm hoping it's not my stator that killed it. Don't want to do that again. Probably a good idea to change the stator at the same time but it's too expensive right now.

The manual says I should have between 500 and 700 ohms on yel, yel/gray. My meter read .654 k ohms. This does convert to 654 ohms right? Or am I thinking about that wrong.

Thanks again to all the genius's on here.

Adam

 

[Molaker]

Re: Replaced Power Pack today. Got Instant results! Yea!!!

Yes, .654 k ohms is the same as 654 ohms. Congratulations, BTW.

 

[ErinMarie1501]

Re: Replaced Power Pack today. Got Instant results! Yea!!!

I'm so glad to hear that worked. I think that the guys are leaning torwards replacing the Power Packs in ours as well.

 

[77Lark]

Re: Replaced Power Pack today. Got Instant results! Yea!!!

Long post, redundant to my other post. Might only read if your troublshooting ignition.

Erin, Does that model have more than one powerpack? If so swap them and see if it works. Mine was cheap considering. ($100) Test the stator coils first. On mine it was the yel, yel/gray wires that are on the power pack.

If the stator wires test bad then they aren't sending the voltage to the power pack.

Mine didn't run rough, it just didn't start one day. Cranked on it for two hours and it just gave one or two coughs.

Also someone told me to remove wires from term 6 and 11 on PP and use meter to test. Using ohms scale...

(A) put red on 6 and black on 11 mine read 1.434 M Ohms
(B) put red on 11 and black on 6 mine read 1.946 M ohms

On the new PP (A) was the same but (B) read open, nothing there at all which apparently indicated on the old one the diode inside was shot. Of course more than on thing can probably go bad on a PP.

what I did to test stator:

(1) remove yel, yel/gray wires from power pack.
(2) test with meter on ohms scale. Mine read .654 k ohms which translates to 654 ohms. Per the manual normal is between about 500 to 700 ohms
(3) test the other stator coil at the terminal strip. This coil is responsible for charging. Im not sure if it is the same reading. Mine wasn't but it may be going bad on that coil. Mine read 1.5 ohms which is mighty close to shorted right out. But still charges.
(4)Two pairs of sensor wires on PP, test using ohms scale again. mine read 8 ohms each (of two) sensor.
(5)Test rectifier. I can't remeber this one. Seach my posts from last week.

There are also a lot of things under the flywheel to check. I didn't do this but probably should have before replacing the Power pack. If my pack was more expensive I would have.

Check for melt downs under there. Air gap sensor? magnets, wire shorts (which should come up on your meter testing the other wires).