Removing a stuck lower end.

Olds Eddie

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
194
I am starting a new thread on this as my original post has already been answered quit well. My problem is with my Buds Suzuki DT25c outboard. I have loostened all 6 bolts and two grown well fed men couldn't wrestle it apart. We can almost see a little air between the upper and lower units if we rocked it side to side but that was about it. Evidently the drive shaft and the input shaft have welded themselves together. Anyone got a trick for getting an uncooperative lower end off?
 

Olds Eddie

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
194
Re: Removing a stuck lower end.

Is that the proper name for the shift rod that is threaded together? If so yes but it didn't help. We could not get hardly any gap between the upper and lower.
 

deejaycee_2000

Captain
Joined
Mar 28, 2006
Messages
3,447
Re: Removing a stuck lower end.

did you disconnected it at the top or at the bottom above the cavitation plate?, have you tried spraying deep penetrating oil in there? Ideally you should try and take a piece of wood put it on the cavitation plate, and hit with a hammer lightly on the wood (as centre as possible) mmmm I see no reason why the sucker is not budging ..... lol
 

Olds Eddie

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
194
Re: Removing a stuck lower end.

We disconnected it at the cavitation plate. I tapped on it with a deadblow but avoided the cavitation plate as I have learned the hard way not to do that. I'll try to use a block of wood as suggested and sneak up on it. From the look of the lube we drained out of the gearcase, I don't think it has ever been wrenched on before. It would be nice if I could get some penetrating oil in there but I can't figure out how. I thought of trying to rig up something to the flush port and pour kerosene in there but that would probably not reach the drive shaft where it is needed. Is that just a spacer plate between the upper and lower? We might need to remove it in pieces and replace it. but I'm not sure it would get us where we need to go.
 

ToesUp

Cadet
Joined
May 16, 2008
Messages
6
Re: Removing a stuck lower end.

sounds like your drive is frozen to the motor head
 

JCF350

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Messages
1,149
Re: Removing a stuck lower end.

Fun time!!!
Disassemble lower unit from the prop shaft end. Drive the lower unit down ,bye bye water pump (and possibly a upper bearing retainer don't know about Suzuki's). Try gripping drive shaft for hammer contact. Use some blaster on the power head end and beat. Can't grip? bend drive shaft and retry.

Worst case, is a good power head needing a lower unit assembly.:eek:
 

deejaycee_2000

Captain
Joined
Mar 28, 2006
Messages
3,447
Re: Removing a stuck lower end.

you need to get deep penetrating oil in there, most cans comes with a thin long nossle tube to get into these places ......
 

northrivergeek

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 11, 2006
Messages
38
Re: Removing a stuck lower end.

This was shown to me by a old salty outboard guy I work with ( C.L. Sumner )
I got my 1979 Evinrude shaft out , I was about to take the acetylene torch out when he said STOP.. don't heat a precision machined part it will weaken it and cause molecular changes!

Ok so How do I remove it ? I had tried every thing nothing worked, by this time I had removed the power head and took it to work with the shaft still stuck in it to use the torch.

I had attached a large cable clamp to the shaft to have something to pull on.. He went over to his rusty crusty old tool box, and pulled out a Tie Rod Separator Pickle Fork, went over to the pipe threader and cut off a 8" length of stainless steel pipe, grabbed 3 hardened machine washers big enuff to fit over the shaft, and just a hair bigger than the pipe diameter, slid two over the shaft then the pipe, the the other washer. Above the washer he put on my cable clamp ( my shaft had a machined step down about half way up the shaft) Tighten it down just below the step, laid the power head down placing small blocks of wood under shaft to keep shaft level.
Inserted pickle fork between the cable clamp, and the top single washer, then whacked the pickle fork a few times with a 20lb small hand sledge, and out popped the rusted on shaft!!!.
We then cleaned out the hole and buffed the shaft splines to remove rust and dirt, applied a dab of silicone grease and worked the shaft in and out until it moved freely with out getting stuck.

Ive asked on a dozen or more forums NO ONE Ever said to do this !!!
 

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James R

Commander
Joined
Feb 1, 2007
Messages
2,664
Re: Removing a stuck lower end.

Looking at the lower unit you can see that there is a separate plate about 3/8" between the Exhaust housing and the lower unit. avoid hammering on the lower or you will warp this plate. This plate carries the upper drive shaft bearing housing and if warped will not seal allowing oil to come out and water to get in. Best way is to cut four hardwood wedges and fit them in the gap between the exhaust housing and the plate. Drive them in gently and evenly being carefull not to damage the aluminum. If that does not work then leave the wedges in overnight and the job may do itself. Put one bolt in loosely to act as a safety in the event that the thing pops apart.
Sometimes the powerhead will separate from the lower easier than the other way round. You can try removing the powerhead. Moving the power head often loosens the grip on the drive shaft.
 

SPOILER

Recruit
Joined
Jan 31, 2011
Messages
1
Re: Removing a stuck lower end.

Try this one. Propane torch. After disconnecting everything on the lower end of a Yamaha 9.9 and hitting the lower end with a hammer and block,(broke piece off cavitation place), it would not drop at all. After a nigts rest came up with the idea of heating the bolts and the case around the bolts with a propane torch while applying penetration oil. It worked. Take your time and do an even heating around the case. Be patient and keep the heat moving around the case. Use 2 torches if you have them. The heat was not hot enough to damage the paint. Keep applying the penetration oil. All this heat and lube should break loose the corrosion. Once it has been evenly heated try rocking the case side to side or tap the case with a hammer and block. Do not hit on the cavitation plate like I did. Unless you are really lucky it will crack especially after you have heated the case. Once a small separation happens insert a sharp paint scraper into the separation of the case. Work the scraper around the case. The more scrapers you use the easier it will be. The scrapers keep the case open.
Eventually you will have worked the scraper around the perimeter of the case. Keep rocking the case side to side, eventually the space will get larger then insert a thicker blade, like a thin screw driver and gently work it around. When you put it back together apply marine grease or anti sieze to everything.
Worked for me.
 

robert graham

Admiral
Joined
Apr 16, 2009
Messages
6,908
Re: Removing a stuck lower end.

Are you dead sure there's not another bolt up under that zinc trim tab? Maybe just remove trim tab and check up in there before all the business with the torches and jack hammers? Good Luck Guys!
 

Bob_VT

Moderator & Unofficial iBoats Historian
Staff member
Joined
May 19, 2001
Messages
26,026
Re: Removing a stuck lower end.

Welcome to iboats ...............................

This is a thread from over 2 years ago. While we all appreciate input and participation ........... please take notice to the date of the post.

Many of the old posts are for reference and are just best left alone (unless you are the original poster).

Please feel free to start your own posts :D
 
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