Project Fuggly - No Longer Fuggly And Splashed!!!!!!

[archbuilder]

Thanks tn......the plan changed with the weather forecast....I realized two things tonight:

1. the latest storm front is going to be here tomorrow, not Friday as they forecasted this morning (welcome to Oklahoma....) so that threw a wrench in my plans for picking up some 4'x8' cardboard and a couple other boat related odds and ends tomorrow.
2. again looking at the forecast, then the yard, then the forecast.....I realized that if I didn't mow tonight I would need the brush hog....so I mowed! then did a supply run.

I also spent some more time studying the transom and my plan of attack. After looking again, I really don't have much grinding left, so tonight wasn't really a loss. I also work through some problems with building the inner skin that I thought of this morning. Right now it all works perfect in my head....we'll see how it goes once I get started this weekend! Tomorrow / Friday I need to move the motor and boat around...shuffling things in the rain should be fun! I'm starting to feel like a kid on Christmas eve!

 

[zool]

I guess one good thing about living up here in the cold is the grass hasn't started growing much yet..and the trees are still bare.

Planning and studying is still considered boat work in my book Looking forward to your progress Arch!

 

[archbuilder]

I finally got some deck time at the lake! I took this week off, and headed out there this weekend. I had planned on coming back today, but cut it short due to rain and storms rolling in.



But it was still a good time and I had planned on spending a few days with Fuggly! So this morning I got started on her. I didn't get a full day, ended up running some errands in the middle of the day, but still made some progress. I think total I spend 4-1/2 hours or so on it. Its kind of hard to say, I spent some of that on making videos, which seems to take a lot of time....at least for me!

I started by making a cardboard template. I made a rough one based on measurements I took. I purposely cut it undersized, then engineering taped (duct tape) it to the transom.



Next I hot glued on small pieces of cardboard on to it to "trace" the profile. Its not really pretty, but makes a quick, fairly accurate (close enough for this), profile of the transom.



Sort of looks like two pacman ghost smushed together and smashed, lol! The goal for this is to create the inner skin for the seacast transom. I used the pattern to create a mold out of scrap MDF and plywood.

 

[archbuilder]

After I traced the pattern onto the MDF, I started cutting out the top side. Before I cut it, I screwed some 5" wide scraps to the backside where I would be cutting. This gave me a "double thickness" along the top edge, without using two solid pieces.



If you look closely, you will notice that the top edges aren't cut at 90 degrees, The surface that I am tabbing into is actually parallel with the top of the mold. (and parallel to the bottom of the hull.) I should have taken a picture, but it will make sense in the video. it ends up being about 12 degrees off from a right angle cut. The vertical cuts are 90 degrees however. All of this is to create a top to the skin, which does not go all the way up to the splash well. I'm making it more complicated that it needs to be, but if it works out it should look a lot neater!



I added a half inch piece of plywood to the center section, since this is a stepped transom. After that I routed the edges with a cove bit and sanded down the outside corners at the top of the transom. Tomorrow, I need to do a little bondo work to the inside corners where the thinner sections meet the stepped up section. I just need to put in a radius to get rid of the sharp corner. After that I'm covering it with packing tape and laying up the glass.

Once it sets up, I'll trim it up and put it in using seacast spacer blocks. I have to say this one is way more complicated that Miss Morgan, Hers was flat, and went gunnel to gunnel and splash-well to the bottom of the hull. I just laid up the glass on some old formica, popped the skin off, traced the patter and cut it out. I doubt the entire thing took more than an hour. My guess is I have a couple more hours to get to the same point. I'll try to get the video edited, but that seems to take forever!

 

[zool]

Wow arch, those cardboard templates are nice!..they make my hillbilly templates look.....hillbilly ....great work as always!....

Beautiful lake shot too!

 

[sphelps]

I forgot about the step in the transom .. Had me scratching my head for a minute ...

 

[archbuilder]

Zool, I'm not sure about your templates, but your final work turns out excellent! So it really doesn't matter how you started out, lol!

Sphelps, I kind of wish I had used some MDF for the step, that plywood is a little rough....I sanded it some, and it probably won't matter once the tape is on anyhow. I was watching your Seacast video the other night by the way. They used to have a red hardner....mine kind of looked like bondo, it was funny to see yours that smurf color!

 

[WOEISMEIGOTTA470]

Got the new toys.....hopefully I can get a spark going tonight....

Nice! I got the same ignition setup on my 165, only I went w/ the pertronix II. It runs so nice and smooth now made all the difference. Previously I had a real difficult time getting the timing set and carb adjusted properly, with the points and old coil it was jumping all over the place at idle from weak spark. BTW didn't realize you were running the same engine I do. :thumb:

Awesome job Arch. I like that ignition system I may buy two myself

Do it Mark!

 

[WOEISMEIGOTTA470]

Here's my ignition test vid. BTW do you have that timing gear whine like I do? I was a bit concerned about it, but then I heard that timing gears are quite noisy and it's normal...Maybe it'll quite down after break-in??

 

[WOEISMEIGOTTA470]

I'd hate to disappoint the ladies with a small sun bathing area.....and I'm pretty sure they don't care if its an inline or V 6 that got them there, lol!

Haha, just catching up on your thread, but I couldn't help but laugh at this!! :laugh:

 

[Mark72233]

What are the parts numbers for the pertronixs you got? You got me thinking now

 

[Mark72233]

Disregard my last I found it. Pertronixs is 1163a and Pentronixs II is 91163a. Why spend the extra $50 for the Pentronix II

 

[WOEISMEIGOTTA470]

What are the parts numbers for the pertronixs you got? You got me thinking now

Mark, this is the exact kit I got: Part number Pertronix 91163A (Ignitor II)

 

[archbuilder]

Woe, thanks for stopping by. I have only had the motor running briefly, I think the fuel pump it out. Anyhow I got it to run enough to satisfy me that I have a good engine. I don't recall it having that whine, but it just ran for a couple short clips. That almost sounds like it has strait cut gears. I cant remember if it is a gear drive cam or a timing chain type. If it is a gear drive that would make some since.

Mark I think I got the 1163a, but not totally sure. I can try to find my receipt and let you know for sure. I just called them up and told them what the application was and the number off the distributor. I just ran with the numbers they gave me. The coil wasn't too bad $20 or so. I don't know how much it helps, but it did eliminate the external resistor. Does yours have one of those? Mine was square and mounted on the transom. It looked like a mercruser only part that would either be discontinued or cost 5K$ if I ever need to replace it, so I upgraded coils.

 

[archbuilder]

I finished up the mold this morning, bondoed the corners and put packing tape over it.



The packing tape didn't want to stick to the edge of the MDF, so I put duct tape on it, then wrapped the packing tape over it. I'm ready for glass, but its kind of cool today and I think I will wait till tomorrow to mess with it. I need to find some smaller containers to put resin in....I have 5 gallon buckets, which look like a mess waiting to happen. I'm wondering if a steel 1 gallon buckets would be be better to work out of. Hitting a quart bucket with the 5 gallon bucket by myself looks like a dicey thing to me!

I also took a pic of the transom to try to explain why I cut the top at a 12 degree angle.




I had a hard time taking the pic and holding the block....its kind of hard to tell, but the top of the bock is cut at 12 degrees (or 78, depending on how you think about it). It doesn't look it in the pic, but the top of the block is parallel to the area where I will be tieing in the tabbing. Minor detail, but it was bugging me.

I also confirmed something I suspected. along the sides of the deck, there was a tappered 1x between the deck and the bottom of the hull. Kind of a spacer. The deck was warped from rot, but the front area around the helm seemed to go downwards once you got close to the gunnels.....flat in the middle with a curve down at the edges.



The 1x is sitting on the two "humps" between the sponsons and the center pod. You can see the line where I ground down the tabbing at the gunnel, which is an inch or so below the 1x. So by the time you get the deck on, your about 1-1/2" higher than where the old deck was tabbed in. I guess they weighed down the edges of the plywood and forced it to curve down. I moved the 1x further back and the curve went away, its just in the few feet up by the helm. I'm not so sure I like that, I have visions of having to cope in the bottoms of the seats like I did on Miss Morgan, great fun. I'm toying of just making the spacer a little longer. Anyone have any other ideas or why I shouldn't do that? I maybe missing something.

I did make some progress on the forward bulkhead template, I really don't have to sort out the deck till later, since the bulkhead extends above the deck.

 

[Corjen1]

Great work on the mold!!! Does the deck really have to bow down at the gunnels?? Im guessing it was for drainage, but you could put spacers in and leave it flat.... Just a tought.

 

[archbuilder]

Making it flat was what I am thinking Corjen, all I would need to do is just make the spacers up by the forward bulk head a little taller than the original ones.

I'm wondering if that is actually how the water got below the deck...sort of. The bulk head extended above the floor, to support the helm and raised deck area up front, It did have an opening in the middle, allowing storage between the lower deck and the upper deck. But the bulk head was basically a dam for any water that got in in front of it. There were drains in the upper deck that were originally piped to through hull fittings on the sides, just above the lower deck. The hoses were disconnected at some point, so any water that got onto the upper deck drained onto the lower deck below, with the bulk head trapping it. There were limber holes towards the middle, but the deck in front of the bulkhead also drained towards the gunnels. So water probably got trapped up there and eventually worked its way below the deck. I'm not sure why they didn't put the limber holes out at the gunnels.

 

[archbuilder]

found a pic of it



The linber was closer than I thought, but still would have left trapped water. I guess the bulkhead went all the way across to support that shelf. I think I am ditching the shelf on the rebuild.

 

[Corjen1]

Making it flat was what I am thinking Corjen, all I would need to do is just make the spacers up by the forward bulk head a little taller than the original ones.

I'm wondering if that is actually how the water got below the deck...sort of. The bulk head extended above the floor, to support the helm and raised deck area up front, It did have an opening in the middle, allowing storage between the lower deck and the upper deck. But the bulk head was basically a dam for any water that got in in front of it. There were drains in the upper deck that were originally piped to through hull fittings on the sides, just above the lower deck. The hoses were disconnected at some point, so any water that got onto the upper deck drained onto the lower deck below, with the bulk head trapping it. There were limber holes towards the middle, but the deck in front of the bulkhead also drained towards the gunnels. So water probably got trapped up there and eventually worked its way below the deck. I'm not sure why they didn't put the limber holes out at the gunnels.

I would bet it did trap water....I think I would make it flat and add a drain hole right in the corner of the bulkhead and gunnel. could be done very easy with a piece of pvc pb'd in, glassed over and then the inner diameter opened up....

 

[sphelps]

Yep , agree .. Can,t see any reason for sloping it down .. Just asking for trouble ... my 2 cents ...