Project 21 Ft Century

[Woodonglass]

Yup, sure can.

 

[Glang65]

OK well here it is, peanut butter filling the chine crack

 

[Glang65]

OK well here it is, peanut butter filling the chine crack

 

[Glang65]

Then 2 layers of 1708 along the whole chine for repair and reinforcing! Will that be enough or could I use a third layer of 1708. I did go with the Poly Resin, the Epoxy was too pricey. I am gonna repeat the process on the opposing chine as the areas seem to be weak.

 

[Glang65]

Hey all, here is an update on the progress. Stringers are restored and ready for tabbing and foam. I am happy with the way they came out.

 

[Glang65]

I think I have the tabbing and foam under control, which leads me to start thinking about future challenges. This boat was called a suspended floor. The floor sat on 6X6 pieces of foam about an inch thick attached to the stringer. I need to know how to increase the height of the stringer so that the floor sits on it. also, how to tie into the old floor. Below are a few pics of how the floor looks cut out.

 

[Glang65]

You can see how the bottom of the existing floor is well above the stringer, its almost 2.5 inches in some places. once the stringer is built up, how do I tie the plywood floor to the old floor? this is a little ways out, but I need to start thiniking about it as my bulkheads will be affected and this will start right after tabbing. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Glang65]

any thoughts?

 

[Vintage Rider]

Keeping in mind that I have not done something like this myself (and therefore don't know what I'm talking about) I would first cut a number of 1X2's to fit from side to side at floor level and start measuring the needed heights. I would use sheet foam (pink or blue depending on where I buy it (Lowes or HD) cut to the proper height (less the thickness of the floor I was going to use.) I would also allow for the height of the two layers of 1708 I would use to bond the foam spacers to the stringers. I would use PB to attach the floor (after soaking the underside in resin and one layer of CSM.) Then I would use a hole saw to cut lots of holes and pour in 2 lb foam. Before cutting the holes I would have made a detailed sketch of where everything under the deck was to insure that I didn't cut a hole where it shouldn't be and I didn't leave any empty voids to eventually fill with water. That's what I would probably do, unless someone who DOES know what they're doing comes along and tells me how to do it right.

 

[sphelps]

I would probably cut some cleats to glass in under the existing floor ... Let them stick out past so you can glue /fasten the new floor to it so it flushes out with the old piece of deck ... Gunna need to grind the gell off of the old lip so you can tab the new plywood to it ..
Btw I'm no pro but this is how I would probably do it ...

 

[Woodonglass]

Yeah, the deck was molded along with the sides in one piece and then installed in the boat. If you're gunna be re-foaming the hull then sphelps is spot on about what to do. Cleats to keep the new deck at the proper height while tabbing. The tabbing will need to be done well and your foam calculations very precise to ensure you don't have to much pressure on the tabbings by the foam.

 

[Glang65]

I appreciate the input on the recent suggestions. I did think about using cleats, however, it seem that they would be 5 inches long or so in some places and I didnt know how strong that would be. They would also be really tough to tab in. As you can see the deck has two layers, what if I cut the top layer back an inch, leaving an inch for the new floor to rest on, fill in the crack, height difference with PB and tab the deck in. I am just throwing that out to get yalls feedback as an option. I plan on tabbing in the stringers some this weekend. I will keep yall posted. Have a great weekend.

 

[sphelps]

I'm not seeing the 2 layers your talking about ... But im kinda blind anyway . :facepalm:
Almost looks like the stringers need to be taller to get the deck up to the right height ... Or maybe thats how it's designed to control water flow or something ..idk..

 

[Glang65]

Hey Sphelps, when I say 2 layers, i mean there was the fiberglass deck you stood on, then wood then another layer of fiberglass. Kinda a wood core floor. I could cut the top layer back an inch allowing an inch of bottom floor for the new ply to sit on. in the attached pic you can see the two layers with the ply core kinda picked out. I hope this helps.

 

[Glang65]

You are right about the stringers as well, they had fiberglass foam tabs about an inch thick on top of the stringers. The floor kinda floated or was called a suspended floor. poor design. I need to raise the stringer height with composite as well as get the bulkhead heights correct to actually support the floor. I think this design led to the stringers coming delaminated from the hull. Just to much room for all kinda od movement in the stringer system

 

[Basin74]

What part of South Louisiana are you from? I think i have seen that boat around my area.

 

[sphelps]

It looks like single layer of plywood glassed on the top and the bottom ... You will need to glue/pb in and screw a piece of wood under the original deck to keep the new deck at the right height .. You will need to grind the gell coat off the old deck edge and tapper it some to tab in the new deck ..What are ya planning on using to raise the stringers height ?

 

[harleyman1975]

My .02 for what its worth. A person could make stringers of 1 1/2' -2' solid foam and completely encapsulate with 3 layers of epoxy/glass and then make pb with epoxy or perhaps 4200 or 5200 and attach sole (floor) to foam/glass stringers.

 

[Glang65]

What part of South Louisiana are you from? I think i have seen that boat around my area.

I am in Walker LA, Just outside Baton Rouge.

 

[Glang65]

It looks like single layer of plywood glassed on the top and the bottom ... You will need to glue/pb in and screw a piece of wood under the original deck to keep the new deck at the right height .. You will need to grind the gell coat off the old deck edge and tapper it some to tab in the new deck ..What are ya planning on using to raise the stringers height ?

Thanks Phelps, That sounds like it could work, do you think it will actually structurally support the deck along with the tabbing? I have not straight edged from side to side over the stringers to see what kinda height I am gonna need so I havent given it much thought as how to raise the stringers. Those are some of the suggestions I hoped the pros could help with.I am committed to finishing this thing and taking pictures that will help the next guy but I am afraid I will have A LOT more questiions. LOL