OMC Cobra 4.3L Trim Gage does not work

[nutnboltguy]

the boat in question is a 1988 Reinell 173E and im pretty darn sure everything is hooked up correctly. the lever on the outdrive sensor arm is in the correct position and my gage reads like it does no matter what position the outdrive is in.

thanks for your help and advice.

 

[southkogs]

Key is in and switched to "on," correct?

Not sure that's consistent on all of 'em, but both of my boats have required the switch to be on for the trim gauge to read.

 

[nutnboltguy]

yep.

 

[bruceb58]

The sender is likely bad. Not unusual for such an old boat. You can take the two leads off where they connect to the gauge and measure the ohms as you move the lever. If the resistance doesn't change at all(likely open) you need a new sender. My advice is to just don't bother with it. I have replaced the sender once on my Volvo. Next time it goes out, I will find something else to fill the gauge hole.

 

[Lou C]

I've replaced a few of these, I found that the originals lasted about 2 seasons in salt water. I got an aftermarket Sierra one here on iboats in 2010 and it still works!

 

[nutnboltguy]

ill check the leads with an ohm meter but im thinking the same - that the sender is bad...

if i do need to replace it is it a pretty standard or generic item that fits a lot of different outdrives?

thanks.

 

[Lou C]

Nope basically your only choice now is the Sierra aftermarket piece if its still made.

https://www.iboats.com/shop/sierra-...71112695498&utm_content=All Products:Shopping

Keep in mind that replacing this is one big pain because the wiring goes up in the transom mount area near the trim lines manifold/water hose area. So trying to access it from inside the boat is VERY difficult. My OMC mechanic came up with a work around for this that makes it very easy to change, like a 15 min job instead of wedging yourself in that tiny space to pull the wires through. One hole through the side of the transom mount and then you run the wiring up the side like a transducer mount.
I think that the proper Ohms reading is 0-200 ohms as you cycle the lever on the sensor.

 

[PITBoat]

Mine doesn't work either. I didn't know there was such a thing (I'm a brand new boater as of a few weeks ago) until I read about checking the sending unit while perusing my Clymer manual; but I would like it to work, as I don't want to be bumping the trim switch if the thing is already at full travel down.

 

[nutnboltguy]

holy crap Lou C they aren't cheap are they?! thanks for that though and the re-routing option... if i have to, ill pull the damned motor to install it.

its like PITBoat said - id like to know when that outdrive is all the way down when im taking off and sometimes i cant hear the change in sound from the hyd pump when it bottoms out...

 

[vasy]

holy crap Lou C they aren't cheap are they?! thanks for that though and the re-routing option... if i have to, ill pull the damned motor to install it.

Ya, cheap they are not. You can easily test by putting a resistance meter and see if it changes when then drive is going up or down. Mine was going crazy all over the place and new one is perfectly fine.
Was a bit of a sticker shock... for a simple resister.
I managed to putt the wire out through the original slot, was not that hard, maybe took 15-20 minutes.
I just cut the old wire off and tapes two together use pull the new wire after the old one.
Hardest part was removing the rubber plug that stops was ingress with the wire.