no spark

funin the sun

Seaman
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Nov 3, 2015
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No there are no signs of any kind of over heating on switchbox. Just the wires from the trigger that connect to switchbox were bubbly and looked like they may have been heating up. Another question is there any kind of test using the digital multimeter i have to test the stator adaptor. Is it possible the adaptor could be shot.
 

funin the sun

Seaman
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Nov 3, 2015
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Oki just redone a test on trigger and this time i disconnected the trigger wires from the switchbox. Last time i did the test i didnt disconnect them. With the trigger wires disconnected with red meter probe on violet and black probe on white results were 844 with red probe on brown and black probe on white with black strip results were 838 if those numbers look better
 

pnwboat

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There are some instructions on testing the adapter, however, they're a bit vague. It says to check from Blue to Blue and it should read "OPEN". Then check from Blue to Ground and it should also read "OPEN". So I guess that as long as you don't read any resistance, it should be OK.
 

funin the sun

Seaman
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Nov 3, 2015
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I have another question. If having a regular car battery in my boat a issue on the ignition components and charging components
 

pnwboat

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Improperly adjusted trigger would only affect the ignition timing. Spark plugs will still fire, just not at the right moment. Only way the trigger would impact the ignition system would be if it was completely bad. Triggers do go bad, but not very often. They operate at a pretty low voltage, maybe a couple of volts.

Car battery in the boat will work OK. A better option might be a dual purpose Deep Cycle marine battery, but that kind of depends on how you use the boat.
 

funin the sun

Seaman
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Nov 3, 2015
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Thank you captain for all the info. I was going to go get a new stator and trigger tomorrow but sense they both check out to be still good ill just go for a new switch box. I was kind of leaning torward a bad switchbox sense i noticed the wires connected to it were bubbly and melted looking. I dont know if you seen the post about i redone the resistance test on trigger only this time i disconnected the trigger wires from switch box and with the violet and white wire i got a reading of 844 and with the brown and white with black strip i got a reading of 838. Are those readings ok for the trigger
 

funin the sun

Seaman
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Nov 3, 2015
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Ok captain so i was just able to get some help cranking over the motor to checking voltage from stator. I did as you mentioned and set my meter to 200ac. With the motor cranking over and meter set at 200 on ac the results show 130. Sense a dva is required for this test and checking voltage using the ac setting does 130 sound like proper voltage output from stator.
 

funin the sun

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Nov 3, 2015
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After testing for the voltage i then checked for any voltage at the coil packs. No voltage to coil packs what so ever. So this would deffenently mean there is a bad switchbox correct
 

pnwboat

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That would be the most likely culprit at this point. Everything else that I can think of checks out OK.
 

funin the sun

Seaman
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Nov 3, 2015
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Thank you captain for all the info. Im gonna be checking a new switchbox and once i get it put on ill let u know the results
 

funin the sun

Seaman
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Nov 3, 2015
Messages
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Thanks captain. Another question. I dont mean to be a bug and ask so many questions its just i dont have much knowledge on boats. Im just a family man with a wife and 4 kids who love going out on the boat so im doing all i can to get the boat fixed. Due to money being alittle tight i dont have the funds to take it to a boat shop. My question is sense the switchbox deffenently seems to be the problem here i come to realize that if i ordered a switch box off ebay i could save a few dollars. Only issue is on the switchbox off my motor there is no numbers on it. I even took it off the motor to look on the back side of the switchbox and there are no numbers. Would you know or be able to find out the switchbox part number or do i have a option to replace it with a better one without any modifications. There are alot of switchboxes on ebay that look identical to the one i have but i notice item numbers are different. Thats again for all your help captain
 

funin the sun

Seaman
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Nov 3, 2015
Messages
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Captain let me ask you another question. I just been doing some thinking on this issue with my boat. Would you happen to know why or what would have cause the switchbox to go out. Is it possible that the bad rectifier took out the switchbox or could another one of the components could be shot or is it just a random break down that just happens. Im just kind of wondering how the switchbox may have went bad.
 

pnwboat

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The Switch Box is one of the most common failures on that type of ignition system. I don't think that the regulator failure had anything to do with the Switch Box failure.

The regulator is part of the Battery Charging system. It is not directly connected to the ignition system. In fact, you don't need a battery for the motor to run. All you have to do is get the flywheel spinning and it will generate the voltage necessary for the ignition system to function. The only purpose for the battery is to operate the starter and any accessories on the boat.

Having said that, the battery charging windings and the ignition system windings are in close proximity on the stator. I guess it is possible for a shorted regulator to interfere with the magnetic field for the ignition since both windings are close together. One of the trouble-shooting steps for ignition issues is to disconnect/replace the regulator.

Bottom line is....... I think your Switch Box just failed. You'll find out after you replace it. Keeping my fingers crossed!
 

funin the sun

Seaman
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Nov 3, 2015
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Well captain i would just like to let you know about the results on the switchbox. I order a new switchbox on friday and just got it today. I put in on and my boat fired right up. Now im ready to hit the waters again. Cant wait. Thank you again for all your help and info and directing me to the problem. All along i was pointing at a faulty stator. Would have never thought it would be the switchbox. Again thank you for all the help and info wouldnt have been able to fix this by myself with you info. Thanks again. Now i think imma give this bad boy a freash cab rebuild.
 

funin the sun

Seaman
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Nov 3, 2015
Messages
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Captain i got one more question. I need to get the flywheel tightened back down and i know it requires i certain torq. Could you tell me how much torq is use to tighten flywheel nut or is there a website to get that spec. I took flywheel off due to i was about to replace stator until i spoke to you and found out my stator was good. So now i need to get flywheel tightened again but not sure of the correct torq spec
 

pnwboat

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Good job...you did all the work!

If your flywheel doesn't have the 3/4 inch high internally threaded lip around the center bolt hole, it is 90 FT LBS. If it does have the lip, then it's 125 FT LBS. I'm pretty sure yours is 90 FT LBS. Most of the 3 and 4 cylinder Switch Box motors are 90 FT LBS.

90 FT LBS flywheel below.

IMG_2224.JPG

125 FT LBS flywheel below.

IMG_0911_1.jpg
 
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funin the sun

Seaman
Joined
Nov 3, 2015
Messages
50
Just wanted to say thank for the help. Got my boat all fixed up and was able to take it to the water. She ran like a beauty. Thanks again captain. After 4 months of my boat being broke down it felt so good to be back on the water.
 
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