[FONT="]BackyardKrazy, you should have two separate issues going on here. Your stator has three separate circuits on it. One coil (that is wrapped around half of the circumference of your stator) is your battery charging circuit (you might notice that the wire gage wrapped on the stator core is thicker than the windings on the other half of the coil). The other half of your stator has finer wire wrapped around the core and has four leads coming off of it, those are your charge coils for your ignition (a very simple magneto that uses the flywheel center magnet to induce a voltage in the coils), and that is as close as your ignition circuit comes to your charging circuit (except where the kill wires go to your ignition switch). As far as your ignition problem goes, I can share what I've recently experienced on my Force 90 (3 cylinder) engine. I had a loooooong bout with troubleshooting a non firing cylinder. Like many others I switched packs, switched coils to see if the problem would move from cylinder to cylinder. And it did, so naturally I thought I had a bad pack. I ordered and got a "new" one (ebay), swapped out one pack and my problem "seemed" to go away.....until it came back very shortly thereafter. I was frustrated. Then as I was reading out resistance in my trigger, stators, coils (everything for the zillionth time) I learned that a few of the wires that come out of the packs and connect to the trigger leads actually had intermittent opens at the terminal ends (the one that corresponded to my dead/non-firing cylinder). Through all my troubleshooting of taking off the leads and putting them back on again, over and over, I weakened the connections (made them brittle through work hardening) at the terminal where the wire goes in to the point that I was getting an intermittent open. Here's an EASY (and cheap) way to test for that (you hardly have to take anything apart). Disconnect the wire pair for the non-firing cylinder that go from your pack to your buss bar (I think it is for your #4 cylinder, right?). Take your multimeter, set it on resistance (ohms) and attach one end to the ground point on the ignition module frame (make sure you're on a good ground). Take the other multimeter lead and attach it to one of the two pack leads that you just disconnected. One of the two leads should read about 600 to 700 ohms, while the other will read just a couple ohms. But more important than the resistance reading is the continuity. As you read the resistance flex each terminal, hold the wire still and flex the terminal to see if the resistance flashes between a resistance reading and infinity (open). If it does, then either re-solder the terminal or just strip and replace the terminal. If fact, if you are in any doubt as to the terminal's integrity, just re-solder it or replace the terminal (and that goes for the packs, the trigger and the stator, or any leads) . I learned an expensive lesson from this. The old adage about troubleshooting shines through....check the simple stuff FIRST. Let us know how it goes.[/FONT]