New OEM Headgasket Leaking Out Water Everywhere

[Klink]

I took the head off my brothers Johnson 15hp 200 J15RSSM to clean the water passages and then installed a new BRP headgasket, applying Permatex Aviation to the bolts only, and torqued to 240in lbs per manual and it leaks out water big time. It leaks big time out the bottom and drop in other places all around. I've never seen so much leaking on the 15 outboards I've worked on in the last 7 years. (I had also installed a new water pump kit and complete thermostat kit.) Besides the stamped BRP part number 338222, the headgasket material has written on the material Reinz 1.10 AFM20. (hard to read it all)

I took the gasket off again and plan to sand the head cover with 220 grit WetrDry on a glass table in 8 pattern to see how flat it is. I will this time not put Permatex on the bolts. But I am planning on putting Permatex Aviation on the aluminum on both sides and letting it dry overnight, then re-installing the same now used headgasket..

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[jimmbo]

Did you compare the replacement gasket to the old one? Did you remove all of the old gasket from the block and from the head? Had the engine overheated prior? If it did, often the head warps and needs to be checked and lapped if needed. Reusing a Head Gasket is not the best idea, as they are supposed to be installed only once.Does the gasket say 'Install Dry"?

 

[racerone]

The head will be warped.------Where did the gasket come from ?-----Your local dealer or somewhere else ?

 

[Tim Frank]

Did it leak previously?
Check the block side for flatness as well.

As suggested, reusing a head gasket and using sealer is not the best idea.

 

[Klink]

1) Did you compare the replacement gasket to the old one?
2) Did you remove all of the old gasket from the block and from the head?
3) Had the engine overheated prior? If it did, often the head warps and needs to be checked and lapped if needed.
4) Reusing a Head Gasket is not the best idea, as they are supposed to be installed only once.
5) Does the gasket say 'Install Dry"?

1) they were the same in configuration, but that was about all I could compare as the old one was in bad shape.
2) Yes, I cleaned everything spotless, even the bolt holes and bolts.
3) Don't know the history of the engine, my brother basically got it for free when he bought a Jon Boat
4) OK, thanks for the advice, will buy another.
5) The gasket is OEM Evinrude (BRP). No it does not say "Install Dry, but the gasket material shines and looks like the type that does not require sealer.

 

[Klink]

The head will be warped.------Where did the gasket come from ?-----Your local dealer or somewhere else ?

The gasket came from these people on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Johnson-Ev...300109&hash=item4b62672c99:g:fawAAOSwf2pcrjtg

I will be checking for warp.

 

[Klink]

Did it leak previously?
Check the block side for flatness as well.

As suggested, reusing a head gasket and using sealer is not the best idea.

I do not know the previous history.
Will be ordering a new head gasket.
Will check the block side too. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Rick.]

Just wondering. Are you running it with the lower unit submerged or are you using muffs? Although I agree with advice you've been given I was thinking perhaps muffs with too much flow/pressure could cause it to leak where the water pump might not cause a water leak. Having said that I doubt the gasket would withhold compression in any case.

 

[jimmbo]

You did follow a proper tightening/torquing pattern/sequence?

 

[Klink]

Are you running it with the lower unit submerged or are you using muffs? .

I ran it in a tank.

 

[Klink]

I torqued it in steps, to less than 20lbs. However, my tightening sequence was different than the manual called for, see the attached drawing. I realized that later.

 

[racerone]

?-----I do not believe the head gasket knows the difference between the 2.-------I see both to be CORRECT !!

 

[jimmbo]

Either pattern is fine. As long as you didn't start at the ends and work toward the the center, or from one end to the other

 

[Klink]

The Job Is Done, it does not leak anymore, here's what I did in detail for others who read this thread:

Cleaned the Permatex Aviation (PA) sealer with Isopropyl 90% alcohol from all the thread holes in the block and the head bolts with alcohol. I've been told that PA changes the torque values by as much as 33%, so if you want a torque of 20lbs you need to torque to like 15lbs. So, I removed all of the PA.

Sanded head with 220 grit WetrDry sandpaper spray glued on a glass table, using CRC 666 as the lube, sanding in an 8 pattern (see link http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...op-techniques/ . I lined up the head on the engine and it did not wobble, so I figure the block is OK.

Most people say do not to use Permatex with the self sealing gaskets that it seals itself, but many have said to do it. I cleaned block and cylinder head surfaces with alcohol, and applied Permatex Aviation dabs to both aluminum surfaces and spread it thin with a tight rubber glove. Let it dry for one hour or more and installed the head to 20lbs in steps snug, 10lb, 15lbs, 20 lbs with Sears pointer type torque wrench per manual tightening pattern (start right middle).

Took off thermostat cover (it was leaking drops), cleaned thread holes and surfaces and O-ring of all grease and applied Permatex to block (and to O-ring just so it’ll stick to plastic thermostat housing cover). Let it sit for 1 hour and assembled.

I left it for three days without testing, as I had other work & play to do, and tested it today and there are no leaks. Great!!!! From leaking like I never saw before ever, to sealed, Thank God.

Thanks everyone for your tips and advice and God Bless.