Multiple questions on stringers

[GSX455]

Newbie problems, still. My stringer template was a little off; I have a gap I can just slide my pinky (1/4") under about only 6" of the length of the stringer towards the bow. The rest of the stringer sits flush. Re-do the stringer or will extra epoxy PB work for larger gap filling? I chose epoxy as this is stronger than vinyl ester.
The other question is if I see fiberglass cloth, stop sanding? All old tabbing was removed until I saw green resin, or saw cloth.
My stringer needed the sides chamfered to fit in the V groove. Is the green color epoxy or is this still polyester? I plan on using 1708 with epoxy to make the tabs for the stringers, or do I use 18 oz fabric based on the how-to from woodonglass?

I just want to make sure this is good before going forward.

Thank you for any advice.

 

[kcassells]

Stringers shoukd not sit directly on hull. Usually a spacer is used like a pc. of plastic, rubber etc.
It created whats called a "hard spot". That can fracture the gel coat and glass underneath.

 

[Mad Props]

Yea, you want a small gap under the whole thing as kev stated... thickened epoxy will fill the gap when filleting.

If using eeeepoxy, then just get 1700 biaxial, you dont need the attached csm of 1708. You can just use 10oz cloth for waterproofing and cosmetic stuff but use 1700 for structural stuff like stringers and tabbing

 

[GSX455]

Thanks for the feedback, kev, & MP.
I saw so many repair posts with 1708, I went ahead and bought 4 yards. Just get the 17 oz. bi-axial for tabs, about another 3-4 yards for a 16 foot boat to do 3 stringers?

 

[kcassells]

1700 for eeeepppooxxxyy
1708 for poly

 

[Chris1956]

I don't agree with the above posters. Fill that gap with poly putty and affix the stringer solidly to the hull. If you don't the hull will flex at that point, which can lead to cracking.

 

[kcassells]

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...n-hull-bedding-question?p=4910413#post4910413

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...n-hull-bedding-question?p=4910431#post4910431

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...n-hull-bedding-question?p=4910610#post4910610

To fill the void you asked about w/pb is fine. That becomes the spacer. To place the stringers or bulks directly onto the hull is
what creates a hard spot. Gap should be ideally @1/4".

 

[gm280]

Since the haul was probably manufactured using polyester, why are you going epoxy? Polyester is what most boat repairs typically use. Search the net for boat repair experts and watch their work. Polyester is certainly strong enough and even cheaper too. JMHO

 

[GSX455]

I've heard to seal wood and get it to wet well, several coats of a WEST type low viscosity epoxy was the way to go. Plus, I'm using vinyl ester, which only a little more expensive and just as compatible as polyester for a repair. I read that in this forum too, Were they wrong? I don't mind spending a little more to get a better resin. Thanks for you HO.

I'm getting 4 yards of 1700 biaxial for a 16 foot boat, is that enough to do the floors? Thanks for the help.

 

[Chris1956]

Epoxy is unnecessary. Polyester will seal wood nearly as well. There are also some incompatibilities between epoxy and poly. You need to be aware that they do not stick to one another as well as they stick to themselves.

Vinylester resin is more expensive than polyester resin. It is used on below waterline gelcoats because it is more water resistant than polyester. Again I am not sure why you want to use it.