MFG restoration

gextyr1

Seaman
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Messages
56
I decided to start a new thread on this project since I've moved out of the "help me I'm a newbie, what should I do" phase, and into the "I'm still a newbie, but my hand are dirty now" phase. (In other words, I haven't spent any money yet, but there's not much else I can do until I get the checkbook out.)<br /><br />The boat is finally stripped down to a bare hull. I removed the seats, floor, cleaned it out, and removed all the deck and motor hardware. (I've been drilling out rusty screws all week...)<br /><br />I'm amazed how many screws were in my hull... some of them seem to be there for no other reason than to put another hole in the hull.<br /><br />I still have lots of questions about what to do, how to do it, and what products to use. <br />So thanks for all the advice so far.<br /><br />Anyway, here is a view of the boat's current condition.<br />
s_stern-view.jpg
 

Wimperdink

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Jul 24, 2005
Messages
1,171
Re: MFG restoration

its already looking better than the first few pics :D
 

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
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Oct 8, 2003
Messages
9,334
Re: MFG restoration

Good start. Have you decided what o/b, steering and controls you want to use? If you want to replace the existing steering and controls, don't forget you can always get a few bucks for the old parts on e-bay. Just be sure to keep the wheel!<br /><br />By the way:<br />- The transom eyes and bow eye are 200% better than what you see as replacements, so don't toss them. Drop them off a the chrome plater. The replacement stuff is chrome plated zinc alloy that does not hold up well when exposed to water. What is on there is chrome plated brass (assuming they are the originals) that will last another 40 years if re-plated.<br /><br />- Good time to check out the transom for water damage. On my MFG when the top cap is removed you can't see the core. The fiberglass wraps over the top and it is sealed. But you can drill through to see if the water has "wicked" up to the top.<br /><br />- The white press on edge trim is also available new. When I find my link to a reasonably priced supplier, I let you know. Easy enough to find at JCWhitney and other auto supply houses in lots of colors.<br /><br />- I found Marine Tex epoxy works well for filling in the screw holes. I had a few too. Don't know what they were thinking. Also works great if you need to attach anything to the inside of the hull (brackets, wood blocks, etc) to mount accessories to rather than drilling more holes in the hull.<br /><br />- A few guys I know with vintage MFG's all had the same condition I found: The hardwood block that the front bow eye is bolted through breaks free of the hull. Its about 6"x2"x2" and carved into a triangle shape to fit snug into the bow. The glue they used didn't hold. Remove the bow eye, sand the block and hull clean of old glue and coat with Marine Tex epoxy and remount. Don't tighten up the eye tight because you don't want to squeeze out all the epoxy. Just make it tight enough that you see it start to ooze out the edges. Fully tighten a few days later. And don't epoxy the bow eye in by accident. Wrap it in foil or something where it passes through the hull so the epoxy won't stick to it. <br /><br />Are you having fun yet? :D
 

gextyr1

Seaman
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Messages
56
Re: MFG restoration

Having loads of fun. Still don't have the boat under a roof yet, but the weather has been so nice it hasn't been an issue.<br /><br />Currently the transom and bow eyes are painted (same lousy paint as the hull.) So I'll strip the paint from the eyes and put them in the bin of things to be chromed.<br /><br />The transom is shot. There is no metal top-cap on mine, I don't think there ever was. But the fiberglass has split open (look at the picture) so I know there is water damage. Plus, as I mentioned earlier, there were a million screws in the hull... well, every screw I took out of the transom was rusted to the point of having no threads... good indication that there is water in there!<br /><br />Is Marine Tex epoxy very easy to sand? I was hoping to find something solid and long-lasting, that I didn't have to sand each spot for hours... there are a lot of spots I need to fill.
 

Mark42

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Oct 8, 2003
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Re: MFG restoration

Marine Tex is not too hard to sand. A disk for your drill will make it easier. A good way to clean up those holes and prep for filling is to take a 1/2" drill bit and carefully drill into the hole from the ouside of the hull to the point where the tip of the bit just pokes through the inside. That will leave chamfered edge of fresh fiberglass for the epoxy to stick to. Cover the hole with a piece of masking tape from the inside and fill with epoxy from ouside using a putty knife or similar tool. I was able to do most holes with two passes of epoxy without using thickener. <br /><br />Believe me, it won't fall out above or below the water line.<br /><br />Go easy with power sanders, there is a finish layer of gel-coat you don't want to remove. If you do, the glass fibers will be visable.
 

gextyr1

Seaman
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Messages
56
Re: MFG restoration

ok, sounds easy enough. I'll be careful with the disk-sander... for the little holes I'll probably just use the old block sander. <br /><br />I also still have to strip off the old paint before I repaint it. I figure I can do that with some kind of paint thinner or something... It isn't very good paint, most of it comes off real easy anyway.
 

gextyr1

Seaman
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Messages
56
Re: MFG restoration

quick question: in the middle of the transom, there are two holes for water to drain from the splashwell. I am removing the splashwell in preparation for transom repairs. There are metal tubes that go from the inside of the splashwell through the transom. is there a good way to get these metal tubes out without destroying anything, or should i just start cutting?
 

Mark42

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Oct 8, 2003
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9,334
Re: MFG restoration

Those tubes are available new, check the mega mall here at iboats. They come with one end rolled and the other end straight. Coat with epoxy and install. "Roll" back the straight end with a ball-peen hammer or the like. <br /><br />So, yes, just start cutting. :D <br /><br />Actually, the tubes are soft and can easilly be pried out with a screwdriver, if you have to.
 

gextyr1

Seaman
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Messages
56
Re: MFG restoration

I tried prying it out. The tubes are the only thing solid about my transom. I'll get out the ol' dremel.
 

fishingdan

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Feb 12, 2005
Messages
1,045
Re: MFG restoration

If you can't just push it out with a little influence (i.e. hammer and a blunt tool), try this:<br /><br />Take a hack saw blad, insert it in the hole and cut a slot in one side. Then pry it out of there with a screw driver.
 

gextyr1

Seaman
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Messages
56
Re: MFG restoration

ok, used a combination of the two ideas... cut it with a hacksaw blade, then smashed it out with a chisel/hammer. splash well fell right off :) <br /><br />Which now gives me access to work on the transom. So I cut the top off the transom, and I'm not even gonna bother posting pictures of what I found. I didn't expect it to be pretty, but there was nothing but mush brown sludge, with bits of what used to be wood. So anyway, here come the questions (if I can type and scratch this nagging itch at the same time) <br /><br />The inside and outside walls of the transom are made of plywood (with fiberglass of course.) The core was just plain old wood. The plywood still looks rock-solid, and it doesn't look like it'll come off the fiber glass without a sledge hammer ... So do you all think I can leave that plywood in, treat it with GitRot or something, epoxy the living heck out of it, then pour the sea-cast? If I can't, I have a feeling I'm gonna have to cut the entire transom off, and rebuild it from scratch... and boy will that suck.
 

djzyla1980

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 26, 2005
Messages
640
Re: MFG restoration

I believe sea-cast has a specifics of what needs to be there to pour sea-cast in there.... If I remember when I read the site that you needed a solid outside and inside form to pour, if your missing the inside build a fiberglass/ply wall to hold the cast in. If they seem solid all the way down I'd go for it you basically have exactly what they call for..... I think drillin some small holes all the way down the transom(inside) remains to see what kind of condition it is toward the bottom.... Might be real solid up til 1/2 way down.... but then that remaining ply/fibergalss wall could crap out on ya. If I'm reading this right.... From the outside of boat goin in... you had fiberglass/plywood, then some junk wood... then another layer of fiberglass/ply? If all that went bad was the inside "junk" wood you got pretty lucky. specially if it was wood soup. <br /><br />Did you try a cup? Might have been some good eats in there.... Heard it's high in fiber....
 

gextyr1

Seaman
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Messages
56
Re: MFG restoration

Well, I guess sea-cast wants to be right up against fiberglass. That means either removing the wood, or treating it as I said earlier and putting new wood in for the core.
 

Mark42

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Oct 8, 2003
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Re: MFG restoration

TexomaAv8r,<br /><br />Boat came out nice. Haven't seen you post about it in a while. Looking really good.<br /><br />Mark.
 

gextyr1

Seaman
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Messages
56
Re: MFG restoration

I haven't had a lot of time to work on my boat lately, but I have a free weekend now, and (weather permitting) I intend to get started on my transom. <br /><br />After struggling for about a week to get the cylinders on my 1959 Johnson V4 unfrozen, I gave up and bought a (mostly working) 1963 Merc500. Thing is, it is a long shaft (20in), whereas the Johnson was a short shaft (15in). So, since I'm rebuilding my transom, I need to decide how to handle this. Here are my ideas:<br />
transom-idea.jpg
<br /><br />Option 1: raise the entire transom by 5 inches.<br />Option 2: use a transom elevator (like this)<br />Option 3: add to the transom just where the motor mounts.<br /><br />Option 3 seems like there may be structural problems, although I could re-enforce this with metal (inside the fiberglass) perhaps. Option 1 or 2 are easy, although using the pre-made elevator will put extra holes in my transom and will cost more.<br /><br />Any thoughts?
 

fishingdan

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Feb 12, 2005
Messages
1,045
Re: MFG restoration

I always prefer option 1 in this case. I have done option 2 in the past and I didn't like it. With option 2 and option 3 there is too much torque (twisting) on the transom. The top will want to go backward in fast starts.
 

Mark42

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Oct 8, 2003
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Re: MFG restoration

If your going to rebuild the transom, then I think option 1 (raising transom 5 inches) is the way to go. I would skip any sort of Sea Cast repair methods and go with a solid plywood transom. Make it laminated from two or more pieces of 3/4 or 1/2 or whatever it takes to match the original thickness. The new exposed 5" of top can be layered in glass until it is the same thickness as original. Sand, prime and paint. <br /><br />The trick will be fitting in the plywood core with the ends of the gunwale covering up 6 or 8" of the transom on each side. I don't know how your top is attached to the hull, but they are often difficult to separate.<br /><br />The other method to fitting the core is to cut out the entire inside of the transome fiberglass skin and insert the core that way, then replace the skin and glass over the seams. <br /><br />Other folks have done the core in multiple layers dropped in from the top and did a "scarf" cut on each layer. If the core is made from two 3/4" layers, the first is cut diagonally top left to bottom right, the second piece is cut the opposite . The drawback to this method is what a headache putting the pieces in with epoxy and glass cloth flopping all over then stuffing in the second layer with more epoxy and glass then hurry to arrange the pieces right and clamp it up snug before the epoxy sets.<br /><br />How about trading the Merc for a short shaft?<br /><br />Still, you could redo the transom to its original size/shape and get a simple jacking plate to raise up the motor ($100 - $300). Look at jack plates in the mega mall. They will offset the motor 4 to 6 or more inches depending on design.<br /><br />If it were my boat, I would cut the entire inside skin off flush to the hull, leaving the entire inside wide open. Then install a plywood core made from two 3/4" pieces of marine ply sealed in glass and epoxy. That gets epoxied in place. The skin can be epoxied back over it or left off and sand smoothe. The entire side and bottom edge of the plywood would be heavilly filled with epoxy puddy to create a large fillet. The fillet helps anchor the transom to the hull. I think this method is the most direct and easiest to accomplish because you have full access to the transom from the inside - no messing around trying to fit stuff in from above.<br /><br />I know this is long. Hope it helps.<br /><br />Mark.
 

gextyr1

Seaman
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Messages
56
Re: MFG restoration

That helps a lot. I think I'll go with option 1. I am going to cut the inside skin out, remove all the wood, and sand it down, as Mark suggest. Then I'll cut out the plywood to fit with a little clearance under the area where the topshel overlaps the transom. It'll be kinda tight for doing the glasswork, but I'm pretty sure it'll work. Once I have the sealed wood in place, I'll replace the inner skin (if it is still in good condition) and glass that back in, then basically put a new shell of fiberglass over the top of the new 5 inches of plywood. I think this will work, I'm just hoping I can make it look good :)
 

woosterken

Lieutenant
Joined
May 18, 2005
Messages
1,431
Re: MFG restoration

gextyr1,looks like you have a lot of work ahead of you.remember:IF IT'S WORTH DOING,DO IT RIGHT.<br />just look at what Mark42 has.<br />also check out MFGBOATS.COM there you will find a whole lot of MFG fanatics.in the same boat (pun intended)<br />ken
 
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