Mercruiser 5.0 Oil Pan Replacement Tips

[SouthCarolina1]

Alright so I got a steal on a super clean 2002 Sea Ray with a mercruiser 5.0. Oil pan needs replaced see picture! I have pulled engines before. I am thinking raise the engine enough to get under it, replace the pan, do some while you are there's, and then drop it back down. I am looking for some tips for people who have done this before.

List of questions:

1. Oil pan recommended manufacturer? I vacuum oil out instead of dropping plugs, is there a solid pan without a plug?
2. Oil pan gasket replacement recommended manufacturer?
3. Just googling I have seen some pans come with rails, are those necessary?
4. I am going to clean the bilge, should I paint it? What paint?
5. What's the thread pitch of the pan bolt screws? Should I get some black oem ones or SS?

List of While You Are Theres, let me know if I should do more:

1. Starter
2. Bilge pump
3. Adding a remote oil filter kit

Background on engine. Previous life was salt water, its been on fresh water for 3 years and that's where it will be ran going forward. The exhaust manifolds, risers, and boots were replaced 2 years ago. Compression check showed all cylinders at 165 psi +/- 4 psi. Oil pressure at idle was 40psi and increased to 60psi around 2,000 RPMs. When I checked out the motor it was leaking oil but holding it. Then I towed 3hrs home on some crap roads. Didn't have pictures from before towing but now the oil pan wont even hold oil so I think the drive made it worse idk. From everything I can tell its a healthy engine that just needs the oil pan replace.

 

[kenny nunez]

Also replace he timing chain covers. They were never painted because the harmonic balancers covered them.
Use the engine’s serial #s to get the correct pans.
The 1 piece pan gaskets with the metal slugs are the best. FelPro and some others make them.
1/4” 20 and 5/16” 18 should be the thread pitch for the side and 4 corner bolts.
My own preference for bilge paint is the brightest smoothest white. That way it will be easy to clean, easy to find what has fallen in the bilge, oil, tools, parts etc. Add some lights if there is room.
You will have to remove the drive. Then the joints, gimbal bearing, bellows shift cable needs to be inspected also.
I am sure there will be more good suggestions

 

[Scott06]

Alright so I got a steal on a super clean 2002 Sea Ray with a mercruiser 5.0. Oil pan needs replaced see picture! I have pulled engines before. I am thinking raise the engine enough to get under it, replace the pan, do some while you are there's, and then drop it back down. I am looking for some tips for people who have done this before.

List of questions:

1. Oil pan recommended manufacturer? I vacuum oil out instead of dropping plugs, is there a solid pan without a plug?
2. Oil pan gasket replacement recommended manufacturer?
3. Just googling I have seen some pans come with rails, are those necessary?
4. I am going to clean the bilge, should I paint it? What paint?
5. What's the thread pitch of the pan bolt screws? Should I get some black oem ones or SS?

List of While You Are Theres, let me know if I should do more:

1. Starter
2. Bilge pump
3. Adding a remote oil filter kit

Common problem with salt boats is corroding pan. Can paint it with Rustoleum or some folks use bedl iner material over a good primer.

These are who I get most of my stuff from will have gaskets too. https://www.michiganmotorz.com/5-0l-5-7l-6-2l-oil-pan

recommend fel pro gaskets. Yes lift the engine enough to remove pan and get in there. Would check gimbal bearing, u-joints, coupler and pressure test the drive while its off. Starter depending on how difficult to access or how corroded it is replace as needed.

I 'think you need ss bolts for the pan look at a parts diagram for the thread or go to the hardware store when its off.

Bilge paint is kind of your call, definitely clean it but its just gonna get dirty. IMHO depends on if you are into polishing your boat or using it... If the bilge pump was used in salt and is a PITA to get to yes replace while its out.

Would definitely recommend the remote filter. Also would recommend if you can lift engine completely out and run on the ground after you get the pan swapped - its relatively easy to do and if there are leaks you aren't pulling the engine again. Timing chain cover is composite may not take to having pan removed well??

 

[SouthCarolina1]

Also replace he timing chain covers. They were never painted because the harmonic balancers covered them.
Use the engine’s serial #s to get the correct pans.
The 1 piece pan gaskets with the metal slugs are the best. FelPro and some others make them.
1/4” 20 and 5/16” 18 should be the thread pitch for the side and 4 corner bolts.
My own preference for bilge paint is the brightest smoothest white. That way it will be easy to clean, easy to find what has fallen in the bilge, oil, tools, parts etc. Add some lights if there is room.
You will have to remove the drive. Then the joints, gimbal bearing, bellows shift cable needs to be inspected also.
I am sure there will be more good suggestions

To replace the timing chain covers I would have to remove all the front accessories off the engine correct?

 

[Scott06]

To replace the timing chain covers I would have to remove all the front accessories off the engine correct?

yes

 

[achris]

I seriously doubt you could 'just lift the engine' and replace the sump with it still in the boat. Remove the drive and pull the engine completely out of the boat...

Chris...

 

[Lou C]

Keep in mind that the pan has to come down a fair amount to clear the oil pump pick up. So the engine has to come up higher than it looks.
If doing this job I'd get a can of Rustolium black, scuff the original paint with a scotchbrite pad and then brush on 3 coats of Rustolium.
Yes to replacing the bilge pump, adding a remote oil filter mount (depends on how bad the access is for the regular mount), replacing the starter, and painting the bilge. To that list I'll add:
make sure there are no leaks from the exhaust Y pipe
make sure the steering actuator is not leaking, this can be very difficult to replace if it leaks, some boats require an engine pull to do that job.
Merc drive, check the steering arm for leaks from that area. All that should be done if you are pulling the engine.....

 

[dubs283]

1. Mercruiser. No
2. Fel pro/Victor Reinz
3. If yours has rails, clean and reuse
4. Up to you. Interlux Bilgekote
5. 1/4-20 bolts, 5/16-18 studs/nuts in the corners. Again, up to you but if me I'd clean and reuse if not damaged

As others have said, pull the motor completely and mount on stand. Much easier to invert engine and do the job properly.

 

[SouthCarolina1]

I seriously doubt you could 'just lift the engine' and replace the sump with it still in the boat. Remove the drive and pull the engine completely out of the boat...

Chris...

Ya ill have to remove the drive, I thought that was a given lol.

 

[SouthCarolina1]

Timing chain looks clean and the pan rails look to be in good shape as well.

 

[SouthCarolina1]

1. Mercruiser. No
2. Fel pro/Victor Reinz
3. If yours has rails, clean and reuse
4. Up to you. Interlux Bilgekote
5. 1/4-20 bolts, 5/16-18 studs/nuts in the corners. Again, up to you but if me I'd clean and reuse if not damaged

As others have said, pull the motor completely and mount on stand. Much easier to invert engine and do the job properly.

The shop I have access to has a I beam with a hoist that can only lift 9ft off the ground. I dont think ill have room to clear the sides of the boat.

 

[SouthCarolina1]

Keep in mind that the pan has to come down a fair amount to clear the oil pump pick up. So the engine has to come up higher than it looks.
If doing this job I'd get a can of Rustolium black, scuff the original paint with a scotchbrite pad and then brush on 3 coats of Rustolium.
Yes to replacing the bilge pump, adding a remote oil filter mount (depends on how bad the access is for the regular mount), replacing the starter, and painting the bilge. To that list I'll add:
make sure there are no leaks from the exhaust Y pipe
make sure the steering actuator is not leaking, this can be very difficult to replace if it leaks, some boats require an engine pull to do that job.
Merc drive, check the steering arm for leaks from that area. All that should be done if you are pulling the engine.....

How can I check the steering arm for leaks? The steering arm has some solid rust instead the engine bay.

 

[achris]

Ya ill have to remove the drive, I thought that was a given lol.

Believe it or not, there's been people who seriously think they can change a sump by just 'lifting the engine a couple of inches'....

No offence intended.

Chris.........

 

[Scott Danforth]

The shop I have access to has a I beam with a hoist that can only lift 9ft off the ground. I dont think ill have room to clear the sides of the boat.

Pull the wheels and run the hubs on a 2x4. Gain you a foot