Mercruiser 140 3.0 going through condensers

[lognum]

Update. Well I thought my problem was fixed but the boat started doing the same thing again. At first for a couple of days I could go the whole outing (about an hour and a half on the lake) with out a problem. I thought my problem was fixed. Now After about 30 min the motor will almost come to a complete stop then sputter then stop. If I wait a few min when the engine cools down it will go again for a few more min. I removed the wires to the coil, all of them, and measured 2.0 ohms across the +, -. Then I remembered that Chris stated that it should be .9 to 1.2 or 1.3 to 1.5 depending on the coil. I read 2.0 to 2.1 cold or hot. Is this enough to affect the spark when the engine gets hot?

Thanks for any help.

Same issue exactly on mine, when changed to electronic ignition. Mechanics say "it's fixed", then go out on the lake and struggle to get in after 30mins. There has to be a solution. Keep your thread alive so we can get to a solution. The only person I see that did, was one who installed Ignitor II.

 

[tu1aher1]

Ok I've got an update. I went to the repair place I first went to get the engine running. I told the mechanic that he had installed the wrong coil when he changed it out, one that had internal resistance. I also asked him about a ballast resistor. He then told me that my engine does not have a ballast resistor and that's why he added the coil with internal resistance. So I asked him how much voltage should I have at the + side of the coil (while engine is running)? He said 6 to 9 volts. I believe him about the voltage because I have read it somewhere else. I mentioned that the coil that he had put in there seemed to get really hot. He says that they do pretty hot and thats normal. I am currently getting appox 11 volts with the engine around 2000 rpm

All right I order a new coil (3rd) a Sierra the one that is supposed to be used which is one that has no internal resistance. And I call a marine parts place that has a very good rep around here. I call asking for a ballast resistor to drop that 11v down to 6-9v it should be. I give them the engine serial number and they pull up the diagram and they show now ballast resister and only show the resistor wire. So I have them order it and I will install the new coil with the new resistor wire and see what happens. Should get here in a couple of days.

Also I have taken off and cleaned-till-shiny every connection from the ignition switch to the starter to the coil even the solenoid. Everything I can get to practically. I want to make sure there is no faulty ground or power connection. I cleaned the main ground to the engine and and starter and both battery connections.

I'll keep you posted because I know this is a common problem with this type of engine. I have read it over and over again everywhere on the internet.

One last thing I found. I found the air intake or breathe hose from my gas tank pinched so I fixed it but I don't think this was the problem because one time when the engine died I opened the fuel tank lid to see if it was a suction problem but it did not help.