Since I posted the seats I am making on my boat restoration thread, there has been a lot of interest in some instructions on how to make your own boat seats... So, Today I did a little 'practice' seat, so I could take step by step photos of how it's done.
This is what we're going to end up with-
It's a basic, plywood based cushion, like you'd find in a seat. The same basic design could be used for seats, seat backs, settees- wherever. Of course, this one is smaller than most you'd make for a boat- But you just need to size it to however big you need...
First of all, You're going to need some tools and materials.
Tools-
Sewing Machine-
This is a big one. You CAN use a household machine for some work, BUT keep in mind that they are NOT intended for sewing material this heavy. You might have to simplify your work a bit, so a lighter duty machine can handle it. This might mean no piping on the seams, since it will be fewer layers to sew through. Don't even THINK of using your wife's machine (unless, of course, she agrees to it!)- You are likely to screw up the timing or worse- sending it to the shop for repairs.
An alternative is to find an older household machine, think 1960's or before. There are a ton of them out there, and they can be had pretty cheap if you look around. They are usually a lot tougher than modern machines, the insides are usually all metal, as opposed to the plastic found in most of today's machines. They'll probably have an external motor, look for 1 amp or more. If you can't find one locally, try Ebay. Lots of great deals on there. These older machines will allow you to work with thicker material.
The ultimate, though, is to use a true industrial machine- especially one with a walking foot. Keep an eye out for used ones- I see them on Craigslist all the time. New ones are not cheap, but in my opinion worth every penny. This is my machine, a Sailrite LS-1-
It is a compact, portable industrial walking foot machine designed specifically for this type of heavy sewing. This is the walking foot in action-
As you can see, the top foot 'walks' as it feeds the material through, which results in easier feeding and far more consistent stitching.
Use the best machine you can get your hands on, but don't let not having an industrial machine stop you- There is a lot that can be done with a heavy household machine.
Needles-
Your machine will need a good supply of needles, bigger than the ones that are usually used for home sewing. You'll want at LEAST #16 or #18 needles (the bigger the number, the thicker the needle). Some like to use leather needles for vinyl. I use a #20 needle in mine, but that's bigger than a lot of home machines will take.
Scissors-
This is a pretty basic item, but not something you want to skimp on. Go buy a NICE pair of scissors from a fabric store, intended for fabric. Cheap scissors are frustrating.
Materials
Vinyl-
You want to use a good grade of MARINE vinyl. There are a lot of vinyls out there, but not all of them are suited for use on a boat. The interior vinyls will fade quickly in the sunlight, and will be prone to cracking and peeling over time. Most marine vinyls are fabric backed, which makes them tough.
Some fabric stores stock marine vinyls- The Jo-Ann stores near me have it. It runs about $15 or so a yard, in a 54" width. They have a very limited color selection available, though. There are plenty of places online to get it, and some are priced pretty well. There are HUNDREDS of different colors to be had.
One tip- Make sure you get all the material you'll need at once. If you don't buy enough, then go back later, the material might not come from the same roll- and might not be the same dye lot. The color will be close, but it might not be a dead-on match.
Thread-
Using a good thread is as important as a good vinyl- and often overlooked! Don't even THINK about going to the local fabric store for thread- They don't have what you need. What you want is a bonded polyester thread intended for outdoor use. The threads in fabric stores are a spun thread, often a cotton poly blend... They will not last long outside. You might get a few seasons out of it, but with all the time and money you are investing in the project, use the right stuff.
These industrial threads come on large cones- You'll likely want to use v-69 size. It is available larger (v-92), and smaller (v-46) as well. It's nice to have the strength of the 69, but some lighter machines can't take it- in which case you might need to use the 46.
Home machines are notorious for having trouble with these industrial threads... If your machine simply won't do it, you CAN use a household thread, just be aware that it will have a limited lifespan.
Also, make sure that you pull the tread from the TOP of the cone, using a cone stand. That's how they are designed to work.
Foam-
You're going to need foam to fill the seats with. There are a lot of foams out there, of various grades. You want a medium firm foam that will support a person sitting on it without bottoming out. You also want a foam that doesn't absorb water, if at all possible. The best foams for boat seats are an open cell that passes water through it. There are also closed cell foams available, but they are pricey and tend to be kind of hard.
Staples-
You will be stapling the vinyl to the plywood backing. use a heavy duty stapler with 't-50' staples. Make sure you use Stainless steel or Monel staples, so they don't rust! Monel is more corrosion resistant, so plan on using it in a saltwater environment for sure.
Ok, So now on to the good stuff.
This is what we're going to end up with-
It's a basic, plywood based cushion, like you'd find in a seat. The same basic design could be used for seats, seat backs, settees- wherever. Of course, this one is smaller than most you'd make for a boat- But you just need to size it to however big you need...
First of all, You're going to need some tools and materials.
Tools-
Sewing Machine-
This is a big one. You CAN use a household machine for some work, BUT keep in mind that they are NOT intended for sewing material this heavy. You might have to simplify your work a bit, so a lighter duty machine can handle it. This might mean no piping on the seams, since it will be fewer layers to sew through. Don't even THINK of using your wife's machine (unless, of course, she agrees to it!)- You are likely to screw up the timing or worse- sending it to the shop for repairs.
An alternative is to find an older household machine, think 1960's or before. There are a ton of them out there, and they can be had pretty cheap if you look around. They are usually a lot tougher than modern machines, the insides are usually all metal, as opposed to the plastic found in most of today's machines. They'll probably have an external motor, look for 1 amp or more. If you can't find one locally, try Ebay. Lots of great deals on there. These older machines will allow you to work with thicker material.
The ultimate, though, is to use a true industrial machine- especially one with a walking foot. Keep an eye out for used ones- I see them on Craigslist all the time. New ones are not cheap, but in my opinion worth every penny. This is my machine, a Sailrite LS-1-
It is a compact, portable industrial walking foot machine designed specifically for this type of heavy sewing. This is the walking foot in action-
As you can see, the top foot 'walks' as it feeds the material through, which results in easier feeding and far more consistent stitching.
Use the best machine you can get your hands on, but don't let not having an industrial machine stop you- There is a lot that can be done with a heavy household machine.
Needles-
Your machine will need a good supply of needles, bigger than the ones that are usually used for home sewing. You'll want at LEAST #16 or #18 needles (the bigger the number, the thicker the needle). Some like to use leather needles for vinyl. I use a #20 needle in mine, but that's bigger than a lot of home machines will take.
Scissors-
This is a pretty basic item, but not something you want to skimp on. Go buy a NICE pair of scissors from a fabric store, intended for fabric. Cheap scissors are frustrating.
Materials
Vinyl-
You want to use a good grade of MARINE vinyl. There are a lot of vinyls out there, but not all of them are suited for use on a boat. The interior vinyls will fade quickly in the sunlight, and will be prone to cracking and peeling over time. Most marine vinyls are fabric backed, which makes them tough.
Some fabric stores stock marine vinyls- The Jo-Ann stores near me have it. It runs about $15 or so a yard, in a 54" width. They have a very limited color selection available, though. There are plenty of places online to get it, and some are priced pretty well. There are HUNDREDS of different colors to be had.
One tip- Make sure you get all the material you'll need at once. If you don't buy enough, then go back later, the material might not come from the same roll- and might not be the same dye lot. The color will be close, but it might not be a dead-on match.
Thread-
Using a good thread is as important as a good vinyl- and often overlooked! Don't even THINK about going to the local fabric store for thread- They don't have what you need. What you want is a bonded polyester thread intended for outdoor use. The threads in fabric stores are a spun thread, often a cotton poly blend... They will not last long outside. You might get a few seasons out of it, but with all the time and money you are investing in the project, use the right stuff.
These industrial threads come on large cones- You'll likely want to use v-69 size. It is available larger (v-92), and smaller (v-46) as well. It's nice to have the strength of the 69, but some lighter machines can't take it- in which case you might need to use the 46.
Home machines are notorious for having trouble with these industrial threads... If your machine simply won't do it, you CAN use a household thread, just be aware that it will have a limited lifespan.
Also, make sure that you pull the tread from the TOP of the cone, using a cone stand. That's how they are designed to work.
Foam-
You're going to need foam to fill the seats with. There are a lot of foams out there, of various grades. You want a medium firm foam that will support a person sitting on it without bottoming out. You also want a foam that doesn't absorb water, if at all possible. The best foams for boat seats are an open cell that passes water through it. There are also closed cell foams available, but they are pricey and tend to be kind of hard.
Staples-
You will be stapling the vinyl to the plywood backing. use a heavy duty stapler with 't-50' staples. Make sure you use Stainless steel or Monel staples, so they don't rust! Monel is more corrosion resistant, so plan on using it in a saltwater environment for sure.
Ok, So now on to the good stuff.