lower unit bearing carrier seized & broken

[spool]

Hi Guys,

I've recently installed a 135HP Evinrude '74 outboard onto my boat to get rid of the horrible Chrysler it had.
This motor runs well, has full compression but was a little warm and had milky gear case oil.

I took it apart to replace all of the lower unit seals and water pump, I was able to change all the seals except for the bearing carrier seal.

With the 4 bolts removed using a puller and 5/16th threaded rod i was unable to extract the bearing carrier, I tried everything however its jammed good, I'd say its been run in salt water and by the age of the seals i doubt the carriers been out in a long time.

Now here's the bad part. i noticed that the carriers actually damaged where the O-ring is and the oring has been pinched and i can actually see it through the broken bearing carrier, I'd say it was damaged on reassembly years ago.


I've tried using an improvised claws but they pulled straight like some people suggested, I used a chain around the arms where the 5/16 thread is connected to a 2 arm puller, I was able to get a LOT of tension using this method and it didn't even budge, given the way the seals jammed I honestly don't think its ever going to come out. I've done this job a few times and while its a prick I've never had this much trouble. I tried heating the gear case using a butane hand torch (not excessively heated) I've run it through 6 heat cycles while applying constant pressure on the bearing carrier with no luck.

I pressure tested the lower unit with 15PSI into the crank case and could see the exposed bearing carrier outer o-ring seal bubbling where it protrudes (but no others) so i think its safe to say that the seal is cooked.

I understand my probably only option to fix it properly is to replace the lower unit and cut up the gear casing to salvage the gears as they are in assumed good condition.

any other suggestions as i'm out of ideas?

 

[F_R]

Sure. The carrier resembles a spool, with inner and outer rings that actually contact inside the case. The outer one is the worst offender. Drill some holes through it, dividing it into sections. Then break the sections out. Now it is only being held in there by the inner one, and probably will come out with lots of pull and cuss words. Needless to say, you will need a new carrier and will have some serious cleaning to do inside the gearcase.

All in a day's work at the salt-water shop.

 

[spool]

Sure. The carrier resembles a spool, with inner and outer rings that actually contact inside the case. The outer one is the worst offender. Drill some holes through it, dividing it into sections. Then break the sections out. Now it is only being held in there by the inner one, and probably will come out with lots of pull and cuss words. Needless to say, you will need a new carrier and will have some serious cleaning to do inside the gearcase.

All in a day's work at the salt-water shop.

Sounds like fun, do you only cut away the outer sections that contact the gear casing and leave the arms in place?, otherwise you would have nothing to pull on? I'd be worried about damaging the gear casing but I guess at the outer section its not a sealing surface and just needs to be clear of and burrs.

I'm currently weighing up the costs between a new bearing carrier and a new lower unit, Given I'm down in Australia parts are a little harder to come-by and then there is the "Australia tax" where all parts are %25 more for absolutely no reason. I picked the engine up for cheaper than a new bearing carrier costs!

A new bearing carrier is around $220-450 and a second hand LU is $300, guess i could always try and extract the bearing carrier, if I screw it up replace the LU.


At what point did they change the LU design? if i source another LU

 

[boobie]

Try some hotter heat on it such as Mapp Gas or Oxy/Act

 

[spool]

Try some hotter heat on it such as Mapp Gas or Oxy/Act

I'm a little scared of using a Oxy on it TBH, given my butane torch can melt 3mm aluminium obviously wont melt the gear casing as the heat transfers way too fast, Plus I don't have a Oxy or acetylene torch or access to one.

If I were to try the more heat approach, what would my target temperature be for the gear casing? I have a laser thermometer rated upto 1500deg C which I've used in the past when forging metal and it works well. Should I also focus heat near the outer section? The bearing carrier must be replaced anyway so im ok with damaging it.

Has anyone had any success in rotating the bearing casing to break the seal?





Just to be clear F_R is this what you are suggesting? Or cut the 4 prongs out completely between the inner and outer ring?

 

[abgarza]

Tap the carrier to 3/8. The stouter 3/8 rod pulled my carrier after breaking multiple 5/16. Apply heat and keep tension. Good luck and keep us updated

 

[F_R]

I'm a little scared of using a Oxy on it TBH, given my butane torch can melt 3mm aluminium obviously wont melt the gear casing as the heat transfers way too fast, Plus I don't have a Oxy or acetylene torch or access to one.

If I were to try the more heat approach, what would my target temperature be for the gear casing? I have a laser thermometer rated upto 1500deg C which I've used in the past when forging metal and it works well. Should I also focus heat near the outer section? The bearing carrier must be replaced anyway so im ok with damaging it.

Has anyone had any success in rotating the bearing casing to break the seal?





Just to be clear F_R is this what you are suggesting?

Yes, drill straight through that outer rim, parallel to the prop shaft. Then knock out the sections between the drill holes. It won't be the end of the world if the drill lightly touches the case interior. That outer rim only steadies the carrier, it doesn't seal anything.

You guys in Australia must have the saltiest water in the world ??? Or you excel at getting motors to last forever.

The problem with heat is both parts are made of aluminum and expand more or less equally. So they just get hotter, not looser as when heating aluminum surrounding a bolt.

 

[spool]

Tap the carrier to 3/8. The stouter 3/8 rod pulled my carrier after breaking multiple 5/16. Apply heat and keep tension. Good luck and keep us updated

I rigged up a chain type arrangement, 3/8 is better yes but the chain was able to put some serious pressure on it way more than i ever could with 3/8.

Yes, drill straight through that outer rim, parallel to the prop shaft. Then knock out the sections between the drill holes. It won't be the end of the world if the drill lightly touches the case interior. That outer rim only steadies the carrier, it doesn't seal anything.

You guys in Australia must have the saltiest water in the world ??? Or you excel at getting motors to last forever.

The problem with heat is both parts are made of aluminum and expand more or less equally. So they just get hotter, not looser as when heating aluminum surrounding a bolt.

I noticed that the carrier was heating up along with the casing which kind of defeats the purpose as they'll both expand together, I've had success heating where one part is steel/iron and the other is alloy.

So knock out just the sections between the arms but leave some contact surfaces?

I think our water is just as salty as the rest of the world, We just don't have to deal with freezing temperatures.

 

[F_R]

Knock out as much as you must to get it out. Needless to say, you have to leave something to get hold of.

 

[spool]

Knock out as much as you must to get it out. Needless to say, you have to leave something to get hold of.

Thanks! I'll give it a shot tonight. Found a local bearing carrier for a good price provided I can extract the broken one. I'll need some luck I think!

 

[spool]

Knock out as much as you must to get it out. Needless to say, you have to leave something to get hold of.

I owe you a beer! Drilled out then chiseled out the sections, re applied my chain puller and it came loose with a bit of force still required!, only nicked the housing lightly in one section. The bearing carrier was a throwaway job anyway. Thanks for the suggestion!!

I'll upload pictures in a bit

 

[spool]

No Title

Here are the pictures incase anyone else ends up in the same boat

 

[WernerF]

Looking at the 2nd picture, is the housing still good enough to make the o-ring seal?

 

[spool]

Looking at the 2nd picture, is the housing still good enough to make the o-ring seal?

No it is not, that's why I'm replacing it, it was installed last time with this damage and pinched the o-ring through the broken off section and did not seal. as a result salt water got in and seized it pretty badly.

 

[spool]

No it is not, that's why I'm replacing it, it was installed last time with this damage and pinched the o-ring through the broken off section and did not seal. as a result salt water got in and seized it pretty badly.

I should clarify,

The housing surface (the actual gear casing) is fine and undamaged after i cleaned it up, the bearing carrier is toast and a bin job, picking up a new one tonight. I'd say its been this way for a while but since I've only owned the motor for less than a year and never actually had it in the water. I love cleaning up after other people's half-assed jobs!