Lower shift cable query

sogood

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I'd like to change my lower shift cable and I'm wondering how feasible this would be with the boat still in the water, but not entirely. My mooring dries out fully at low tide and I would have a window of about 8 hours to do the work. My questions are, does the leg have to be lowered fully to remove it? as it is, I have to moor my boat with the leg up, as at low tide, my boat sits right on the mud. If I had to lower the leg fully, I'd have to dig out a bit of a "hole" for it to sit into as I wouldn't have full clearance.
Also, if I remove the leg and run into any unexpected delays or snags (and these things do happen!) would I have any major issues with the boat being in the water, right through a full tide cycle. Would water get into the boat? Would any possible damage be done to the gimbal etc. or could this be dried out/greased etc. afterwards.
it's an odd one I know, but pulling the boat at the moment is a bit of a PITA.
I had also thought of bringing the boat around to a small, seldom used slipway at the side of my harbour and slinging some tyres, on ropes, under the hull, fore and aft. Then with the boat pulled up as high onto the slipway as is possible, I'd let the tide drop until she was sitting on the slipway. Maybe a better option?
Getting my trailer onto the slipway isn't the easiest job in the world as it's really only accessible for small boats, due to the set up and my trailer is for my 25' Sportsman. I actually had to launch at a different slipway, much bigger and with excellent access.
Finally, when the boat was on the hard, I had a look see at the possibility of removing the leg but found that the pin/threaded bar on the ends of the rams was impossible to move. I removed the nuts but the bar refused to slide out. Even after some friendly persuasion it stayed put. The trim operates freely with no binding, but the bar refused to slide out. Is this common? I didn't want to be too heavy handed and wondered if a good soaking with penetrating oil or similar would help?
That's about it and thanks in advance.

Mercruiser 5.7 Alpha 1 gen 1.
 

Grub54891

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You will have to remove the boat from the water. Just struggling to remove the pin leads me to believe you will have a hard time doing the rest of the work. The job is fairly easy, but working in mud and time limits if you haven't done it before, don't try it.
While the drive is off, you also check alignment, check the bellows, and gimble bearing and u-joints.
If any need to be serviced, you will not have the right amount of time to finish it, especially if you don't have the proper tools.

It will sink if you don't get the drive back on.
 

achris

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All of what he ^^^^ said...

I've done the job DOZENS of times, and there is NO WAY I would consider what you're suggesting. :eek:

Chris............
 

Bondo

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and I'm wondering how feasible this would be with the boat still in the water, but not entirely. My mooring dries out fully at low tide and I would have a window of about 8 hours to do the work.

Nope,..... No way in 'ell that'll happen without incident,...
 

Bt Doctur

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This must be done on land. The aft pin may be corroded inplace so remove the nuts on both ends of the ram , then remove the ram.
 

sogood

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Many thanks for all the responses. An unequivocal "NO" then? It's as much as I thought. So pulling the boat will be the lesser of two evils and a smaller PITA. I suppose I could scrub the barnacles off it and give it an antifoul while I'm at it. Thanks again.
 

sogood

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Further to the above, I see mention of engine alignment and wonder if just removing the outdrive/leg requires this. I'd be leaving the outer gimbal housing (if that's what it's called) in place. I'm just removing the leg to replace the shift cable, so is alignment going to be an issue and if so, how would removing the leg affect this. Just trying to get a very clear understanding of what I'm at. Any videos etc. that I watched regarding this don't show or make any mention of re-alignment. Thanks in advance.
 

Grub54891

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Any time the drive is pulled, you check alignment, bellows and gimble bearing. If alignment is out of whack, it will take out the engine coupler. That requires removing the motor. Any suspect bellows or gimble, replace. May as well haul the boa and do it all, sounds like it sits in the water year round?
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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Further to the above, I see mention of engine alignment and wonder if just removing the outdrive/leg requires this. I'd be leaving the outer gimbal housing (if that's what it's called) in place. I'm just removing the leg to replace the shift cable, so is alignment going to be an issue and if so, how would removing the leg affect this. Just trying to get a very clear understanding of what I'm at. Any videos etc. that I watched regarding this don't show or make any mention of re-alignment. Thanks in advance.

Removing the drive/leg doesn't disturb the alignment. Checking that it hasn't moved since it was last set is a good idea whenever the drive is off. Only takes a couple of minutes to check (and here, shops charge an extra $50 :eek: to check it)... Have a look at my videos, I show you how it's done.

Chris........
 

sogood

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Latest shift cable oddity

I've posted already on issues I'm having with the shifter on my new to me Wellcraft. I've discovered a new issue that some may be able to shed some light on. From day one, the shifter was stiff and sticky when selecting fwd or reverse, often having to push hard past the indent to get gear. Then it was difficult getting it out of gear, often having to pass the neutral indent somewhat, before finding neutral with some fiddling.
I changed out the old original Quicksilver controller, as the splined shaft that the gear stick goes onto, had stripped the splines to the extent that the shifter started slipping. I replaced the shifter with a Pretech TS control, along with new cables.

The cables required the use of adaptors at the shift bracket, as they are not quite the same as the Mercruiser cables. Likewise, the shifter end is different. All is well with the accelerator, which never gave any issues, but here's my problem.

Shifting is still very stiff etc. and the issue seems to be that I cant get the required 3" + - 1/8" when setting up the remote shift cable. The longest travel that I can get is 2 1/2". This is because the brass ferrules at either end of the cable have an internal "stop" that restricts the amount of travel that the cable can make, and once the inner comes up against this "stop", it stops! Is anyone familiar with these cables? They are also Pretech, part number PREK 3300C.

Any thoughts most welcome.
 
Last edited:

Bondo

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Any thoughts most welcome.

Ayuh,....... Please keep all of yer posts on this topic in the same thread, yer original,.......

Thank you,......
 

sogood

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Apologies, I just thought of it as a somewhat separate issue. Thanks for moving it.
 

sogood

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As I feared, no responses, which is why I originally started a new thread. This is a new query on a new topic, trying to solve a new problem. If it doesn't get any response here, should / could I start a new thread again? Thanks.
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,.... My guess is, nobody's heard of yer aftermarket controller that doesn't properly fit yer application,.....

I haven't,.....
 

sogood

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With respect, I wasn't asking for anyone's "guess", but rather permission to start a new thread. As to the controller in question ( Pretech pre 308601 ) there are several posts in the "Steering and Controls" forum, so obviously some people have heard of them, and now you have. Hopefully it is ok to post a new thread in the Steering and Controls forum? I won't do so until I get a mods approval, as I don't want to post it just to have it moved to an irrelevant location where it may never elicit any responses. Thank you for your input.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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With respect, I wasn't asking for anyone's "guess", but rather permission to start a new thread. As to the controller in question ( Pretech pre 308601 ) there are several posts in the "Steering and Controls" forum, so obviously some people have heard of them, and now you have. Hopefully it is ok to post a new thread in the Steering and Controls forum? I won't do so until I get a mods approval, as I don't want to post it just to have it moved to an irrelevant location where it may never elicit any responses. Thank you for your input.

You're welcome to post there. If you like, I can close this thread for you.

Chris.
iboats mod team.
 

DouglasW

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Apr 20, 2018
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I'd like to change my lower shift cable and I'm wondering how feasible this would be with the boat still in the water, but not entirely.

Sometimes it makes sense to get a little creative ;-)
 

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Bondo

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With respect, I wasn't asking for anyone's "guess", but rather permission to start a new thread. As to the controller in question ( Pretech pre 308601 ) there are several posts in the "Steering and Controls" forum, so obviously some people have heard of them, and now you have. Hopefully it is ok to post a new thread in the Steering and Controls forum? I won't do so until I get a mods approval, as I don't want to post it just to have it moved to an irrelevant location where it may never elicit any responses. Thank you for your input.

Ayuh,.... You don't need mod permission,......

You started a 2nd thread about yer shiftin' issues in this forum, the Merc I/O forum, which causes confusion for those that post replies,......
I was taught by Don S to not allow such 2nd threads,.....

Do as ya please,....... I'm done here,.......
 
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