j90pleeb 90 hp

buzo

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i just rebuilt this motor all new...i used permatex 518 gel seal between the crank cover and block...ive left it for a few days in an unheated garage....its been up to 17 above 0 for all days and a lil colder at night....not much...but the gel thats oozed out around the edges ahs not set or cured....you can still wipe it like when it was applied....is this right ?

also...like an idiot i miss read the inchlbs torque of the flange bolts as footlbs...and as usual i started off with 10 footlbs and when i realized my mistake for the small bolts....i managed to break one when loosening to restart torque...i know im stupid...but with kids ...well you know....none the less....... how tollerant are these flange bolts if one is missing....i know in my mind and in reallity i should tear down and remove broken bolt then reassemble but man... i have an erge just to proceed and deal with it later if problem arrises.... i would love anyones ideas....thanks again
 

luckyinkentucky

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Re: j90pleeb 90 hp

I know what you mean with the 'kids' comment. :D There's nothing like having a kid screaming or getting on your nerves in the background to make you screw something up royally. Right? :)

If it were me I would get the bolt out of there. What exactly does the bolt hold onto the engine?

As for the sealant question. I would try and raise the temp where your boat is. If nothing else you could use an ATTENDED propane heater. Better yet ... you can borrow one of those bullet heaters big garages use for a night from one of those rental places. That should raise the temp of your garage to at least 65 degrees for a night. Be sure to place it as far away from your boat as you can, and raise it off the ground with a workbench or something. You don't want the heater catching a 'whiff' of some gasoline fumes. I wouldn't worry too much about that, but it's just a precautionary measure. I've worked in concrete floored garages in the dead of winter with a small bullet heater, and they are a miracle. Then I've used some of the larger models on a job site where I was framing a house in the dead of winter. With no walls yet on the house the heater kept a 30' X 20' area of the place around 75 degrees while the air around was 10 degrees fahrenheit. :)
 

F_R

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Re: j90pleeb 90 hp

That is an "anaerobic" sealant, meaning that it cures in the absence of air. In other words, it cures when confined in a space where there is no air--such as between two mating parts. The stuff hanging outside never will cure because it is exposed to air.
 

buzo

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Re: j90pleeb 90 hp

i did not know that about the gel seal thank you .......that type of sealant has high gap tollerance....i guess because of the aluminum surfaces and heat expansion.......

with the missing bolt problem....i know it has to be removed and replaced i guess i was wondering if i could get away with it and if anyone else has had a similar experience...
 

Dhadley

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Re: j90pleeb 90 hp

If you want to test the sealer, put it between 2 washers and clamp them together. Leave them in the garage and pull them apart 24 hours later. Assuming it was a new tube when you used it I bet you'll find it cured between the washers. The stuff that squeezed out you really don't want to harden. You can wipe it off the outside but the inside excess will get washed away by fuel. You don't want that being hard.
 

buzo

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Re: j90pleeb 90 hp

dhadley....about that broken bolt for the crank cover flange....should i tear this whole rebuild down to the block again then remove broken bolt and redo?

i guess i could take the crank cover off again...clean cured gel seal off surfaces...tape or cover up all openings to inside block....then drill out and remove broken bolt then reseal and replace cover,.... retorque everything.

i know that these flange bolts are torqued 64 to 80 inch pounds.....4.8 to 6.4 foot lbs.....i thinking that one missing bolt shouldnt be that critical ...
 

Dhadley

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Re: j90pleeb 90 hp

To be honest we've all seen motors with one of those bolts missing or broken and they run just fine. By the book, it needs to be replaced. In the real world it wouldn't surprise me if it ran OK.

If the powerhead isnt mounted I'd try drilling it out without pulling the front half off. (Drill & use an EZ Out) Kind of a gamble that's up to you. If you do run it make sure that cylinder isn't running lean from sucking air.
 

buzo

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Re: j90pleeb 90 hp

i cant seem to find the torque settings for the five flywheel bolts... idont have a service manual , i have the disc bought online....what should these bolts be torque to ? thank you
 

rudedude

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Messages
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Re: j90pleeb 90 hp

i cant seem to find the torque settings for the five flywheel bolts... idont have a service manual , i have the disc bought online....what should these bolts be torque to ? thank you

Fly wheel nut torque:

From the manual: 3 cylinder and V-4 1985-1986 120-140hp= 140 to 140 FOOT LBS.

1987-on 120 to 140hp = 140 to 150 foot lbs.

All Others 100 to 105 Foot Lbs.

The last one is yours I belive 100 to 105 FOOT Lbs.


And it is best to replace the broken bolt. Heating and cooling of the motor will cause movement , too much or uneven and you will get a stress crack in the area and it WILL fail.

You might be trying to out run an Iceburg and have your crank fall out.

I would take the time now, might save you a powerhead and crank later on.
 

Dhadley

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16,978
Re: j90pleeb 90 hp

That's for a flywheel nut and this motor doesn't have one. It has bolts. I don't have a manual in front of me but it may not be that much for the bolts.
 

buzo

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Re: j90pleeb 90 hp

any ideas ? im thinking maybe 20 to 30 foot lbs...or maybe just tight enough with loctite.....if no response ill go with tight enough....
 

Dhadley

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Re: j90pleeb 90 hp

Don't guess, look it up. Think about what you stand to lose if those bolts come loose or snap.
 

Dhadley

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16,978
Re: j90pleeb 90 hp

No power steering, it wasn't an option on these motors.
 

buzo

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Re: j90pleeb 90 hp

ok ive found info....these five bolts get tightened to 23 to 25 foot/lbs in a tightening sequence.....also NEW bolts should be used when reassembling....

cant find the wave washer for the starter.....

i dont have a piston stop tool.....i didnt change anything on the timing plate when i removed....do i just find top dead center and install key and timing cover?

or is there another way that i can do this to make sure of proper alignment of the timing/keyway when installing?

also timing wheel screw torqued to 120-140 inchlbs (9.9 to 11.6 ftlbs) doesnt sound right....but thats what the disc says


thanks
 

buzo

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Re: j90pleeb 90 hp

on another note.... history of engine...i got it from a friend that was going to rebuild but decided not to....he started to take the air intake off and some of the hoses and labled them....i have no idea as to where they go and can assume some by the length and curvature of the hose , but i would like to be absolute. i do have a motor at the dealer to refference from but some parts are misssing and are closed sundays....

any ideas as to where to find such information... the manual i have does not go into detail of hose routes ....
 

buzo

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Re: j90pleeb 90 hp

got this engine running today. im happy now to follow break in procedures , man im happy couple of cranks then vroom....mixed oil in gas as well as vro, do you guys recommend disconnecting the vro? or if its working and all warnings horn work ...just leave it alone?

i just thought i would follow up on this post, thanks for all the help
 

buzo

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Re: j90pleeb 90 hp

im sorry to ask this question ...but ive been looking for break in procedures in all forums and cant find, can someone link me or point me in the right direction. thank you
 

buzo

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Jun 28, 2004
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Re: j90pleeb 90 hp

just to recap...after october i fogged and put away for winter...yesterday i dumped in the water and started the break-in....runs beautifully cant wait to get it out again. thanks to all that helped , i couldnt have done it without you, thanks to iboats , great site. =)
 
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