Idle Stabilizer bullet connectors discolored

mgoff

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Aug 13, 2014
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I noticed my idle stabilizer bullet connectors on white/black and red/white wires that connect to the outer switch box are discolored, possibly the bullet connectors are over heating? it's in a 99 Merc 150. Should I cut the bullet connectors off and solder/heat shrink them or get some new bullets and crimp them on? If I need to solder them then I'll have to lift the white/black wire off the switch box when checking timing. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 

GA_Boater

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Discolored or burnt? The plastic sheath covering the bullet can change color over time. As far as lifting a wire off the switchbox. how often do you plan on checking timing?


I think you are suffering from paranoia after the cooked regs. LOL
 

mgoff

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I'm suffering from post traumatic smoked regulator syndrome! I need to pull the bullet connectors apart and check them to be sure. I can see the male/female plugs within them and they are discolored.
 

mgoff

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I don't want to pollute the lake by float testing idle stabilizer but if I take it out what would I need to advance or retard the timing by 3 degrees?
 

BillP

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This is a long shot but are those male connectors hollow? I had a 50hp 4s 3 cyl merc/mariner where the main harness was round and it had round connectors that plugged into it. Every now and then the engine would totally stop like you turned the key off. Most times it started back up like nothing happened. Other times it took a few minutes. I ended up slightly spreading the hollow male prongs enough to give a tight interface. Problem went away after that so I now check these type plugs on any motor I get.
 

mgoff

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Thx, Bill, Good advice. Not sure if the male prongs are hollow but I'll check them out.
 

mgoff

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They were hollow so I spread them open a little, put a little dielectric grease on them and plugged them together, nice and snug now.
 

GA_Boater

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If the male bullet is solid, the female part can be slightly squeezed to tighten things up.
 

mgoff

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Had a bad fall on concrete last year and had to get a reverse shoulder implant. Finally getting around to removing the idle stabilizer. Any specific info on how to remove it will be greatly appreciated!
 

Dukedog

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sorry ta hear that.. glad ya healin' up though!!!
tha white/black should make a joint in tha plastic sheath before it gets to tha module.. it will connect tha other switch box.. jus make a short jumper outta tha white/black to connect tha two switch boxes.. remove tha red/white and chunk tha module.. reset idle timing (10/32 screw on timing arm) in gear, in tha water ta whatever speed/rpm makes you and tha motor happy.... gl.
 

mgoff

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Aug 13, 2014
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sorry ta hear that.. glad ya healin' up though!!!
tha white/black should make a joint in tha plastic sheath before it gets to tha module.. it will connect tha other switch box.. jus make a short jumper outta tha white/black to connect tha two switch boxes.. remove tha red/white and chunk tha module.. reset idle timing (10/32 screw on timing arm) in gear, in tha water ta whatever speed/rpm makes you and tha motor happy.... gl.
Thanks Dukedog! All healed up now! Got 80 percent strength back but I think it's stronger than that from working out 2-3 times a week.
 

mgoff

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Thanks Dukedog! All healed up now! Got 80 percent strength back but I think it's stronger than that from working out 2-3 times a week.
What should the idle timing be set to, between 3-5 degrees BTDC ?
 

Dukedog

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actually whatever it takes for it ta run in tha driveway but ta get it right ya need ta reset idle timing (10/32 screw on timing arm) in gear, in tha lake ta whatever speed/rpm makes you and tha motor happy.... timing numbers do not mater except for MAX TIMING number.... set it at 22* after ya "float test" tha timing module.... gl.
 
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mgoff

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Aug 13, 2014
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actually whatever it takes for it ta run in tha driveway but ta get it right ya need ta reset idle timing (10/32 screw on timing arm) in gear, in tha lake ta whatever speed/rpm makes you and tha motor happy.... timing numbers do not mater except for MAX TIMING number.... set it at 22* after ya "float test" tha timing module.... gl.
Thanks! I have a 80 gal tank that I can run it in.
 

Dukedog

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thats good but still needs ta be on tha water pushin' a load ta get idle it where ya like it.......
 

mgoff

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Aug 13, 2014
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Remove it , set at about 5° adjust idle to 1000RPM on hose
Can you give me specifics on removing it? What to do with the wiring back to the switch boxes, etc. ? Going to run it in an 80 gal tank, so will the timing and idle adjustments be the same?
 
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