hull repair needed along lower rake

GlenZZZZ

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Mar 13, 2024
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I have a 1995 Malibu Sunsetter. That was supposedly an all fiberglass construction. It has a cracked hull both port and starboard along the lower rake below where the driver sits. Not a clue what is causing the damage. The cracks run about 20inches. I have removed the gel coating about 6 inches on either side and sanded down the fiberglass prepping for the repair. I am considering using carbon fiber instead of fiberglass since I can not get to the hull from the inside for a double sided repair. Any suggestions or thoughts.
IMG_2719.jpegIMG_2720.jpeg
 

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
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27,820
I would be concerned for the strength of that repair, because originally the entire hull was cured at one time (or should have been), and your repair will be thinner than the original, with shorter strands of glass.

It would best to put some heavy roving on the inside of the hull, and cloth on the outside, at the same time so they cure together.
 

flashback

Captain
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Jun 28, 2002
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3,954
Yep the CF is great for an original layup but not worth the expense for a patch. Looks like you have chamferd the area well enough though it's hard to tell dimensions from a picture. Stick with the 1708 and poly.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Looks like the boat was beached often

You will need to patch both sides of that
 

GlenZZZZ

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I've owned it since it was a year old and it's rarely been beached. I do plan to open the floor close to the drivers side soon. After a lot of research I think I will use a variation of the 1708. 9 Oz Style 6781 S2-Glass. It has significantly more strength. Also going to use epoxy instead of the home depot bondo poly. Inside the hull I may use some woven roving along with the S2 glass.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Its your boat, however it was done with laminating poly. not the crud from home depot.
 

GlenZZZZ

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I'll let you know what the inside look like when I get it open and will also post a follow up as to how it all holds up with time.
 

Chris1956

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Make the repair twice as thick as the original, adding heavy roving on the inside, and you should be fine. Epoxy resin is a good idea.

Also, make sure to foam it, as the foam adds considerable strength.
 

todhunter

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Sep 15, 2020
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1,304
Epoxy and the 6782 is overkill, but it's your money and your boat. If you buy your resin from a dealer who does a lot of business, you'll always get fresh resin and you shouldn't have any issues. Roving can be more of a pain to deal with than 1708, as it isn't stitched like 1708. Whatever resin and cloth you go with, do some test layups before doing the real thing so you get some practice with the combo, especially if its your first time using it.

Looking forward to seeing what the inside looks like. Good luck.
 

GlenZZZZ

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Mar 13, 2024
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Well, the cause and effect are now much clearer. About 12 years ago I had a tower on the boat and I forgot to put it down on the way home. I went under one of those single lane tunnels and tore the tope half of the tower off. The cracks developed directly in the middle of the attachment of the tower to the upper hull. I think that the boat flexed with that hit. At the time I thought I had been lucky that the hull attachment had held up, there was no damage where it attached. About 5 years later I notice the lower hull had cracked along the port lower rake, it looked like I had hit something. I took it to a boat repair shop and they told me the problem was the boat had rotten stringers and told me they recommended injecting a rigid foam and to fix the crack. I did not research this solution or I would have known the boat is all fiberglass. No way to rot.

Now, about 7 years later I have a crack on the starboard rake and on closer inspection the crack on the port side has also recurred. I went to the Malibu factory and talked to their repair man. Discussed if they had had any other boats come in with a similar problem before I fessed up with what had probably caused the issue. His recommendation was to open up the top, pull the foam out and epoxy from above the below. !!##### What a pain. After 2 days, multiple cut knuckles and my back may never be the same, I have put two layers in of epoxy/s2 glass. I will follow that up with a couple more layers on the inside after a day to cure. Then I work on the outside.
 

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froggy1150

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Nov 3, 2017
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841
After you bulletproof the glass contemplate 4lb structural foam for both of those areas
 
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