HDS 9 interference from trolling motor

gm280

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I like "sam I am's" thinking as well. If nothing else changed, I would start with removing and cleaning every terminal connection first. Then look at the trolling motor. Brushes can cause this, so that IS a good idea to check and replace. Also a much ignored item is the actual connection between the trolling motor outlet and the trolling motor plug. Look at the trolling motor plug and I bet it is dark looking. And that IS corrosion all the same. Clean both the plug and socket terminals and that should help as well. JMHO
 

Joepapar

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No changes at all. I'm hearing that lowrance and minn kota have a history of this problem and one of the potential solutions is to run a wire from the TM skeg up to a negative connection behind the front panel. Any thoughts on that one?
 

Barnacle_Bill

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No changes at all. I'm hearing that lowrance and minn kota have a history of this problem and one of the potential solutions is to run a wire from the TM skeg up to a negative connection behind the front panel. Any thoughts on that one?

I have heard of people doing that and it worked for them.
 

Joepapar

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Ok, here's what I found, the TM has one of those internal integrated transducers and when I unplug the transducer from the front bow unit (hds 5) the interference seems to dissappear. When I plug it back in interference reappears. Any thoughts as to why this transducer has started to create interference when it didn't for over a year?
 

gm280

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Ok, here's what I found, the TM has one of those internal integrated transducers and when I unplug the transducer from the front bow unit (hds 5) the interference seems to dissappear. When I plug it back in interference reappears. Any thoughts as to why this transducer has started to create interference when it didn't for over a year?

Still sounds like your problem in in the TM itself. It may be time to check the TM foot section and see what's going on. JMHO!
 

Joepapar

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Update, installed new brushes, wrapped the excess transducer cable around a ferrite, ordered the ground wire from minn Kota and ran it from the negative of TM battery to negative post of crank battery and replaced the control board in the foot pedal. Still getting the interference. Any other suggestions? Thanks.
 

Joepapar

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Went out today with the new transducer mounted on the TM. No change. The interference is still there. I'm about out of ideas.
 

gm280

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Went out today with the new transducer mounted on the TM. No change. The interference is still there. I'm about out of ideas.

Joe, have you tried to remove the transducer away from the trolling motor to see if the noise is still there? That would be a great idea to determine the source and where that source is coming from.

If you remove the transducer away from the TM and still have the noise, then it is possible that the head unit is picking up the noise over the air. But if the noise goes away, the transducer is picking up some RFI from the TM. Good information either way to assist in filtering it out. Post those results. JMHO!
 
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Joepapar

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That was one thing my buddy and I discussed while we were trying to troubleshoot on the water. I'll give it a try and see what happens. I'll report back. Thanks for the suggestion.
 

Joepapar

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Update, took the transducer off of the lower unit on theTM and put it on the deck, the interference went away. Put it back on the TM lower unit and interference came back. Went back and forth multiple times with the same results.
 

gm280

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Update, took the transducer off of the lower unit on theTM and put it on the deck, the interference went away. Put it back on the TM lower unit and interference came back. Went back and forth multiple times with the same results.

Okay some finite results to work with now. So it seem the transducer is picking up the noise via the air and not the power supply lines. SOooo, that is going to be a little more problematic to solve. And that sounds like the motor itself could be the RFI source. Either the brushes in the motor or a switching circuit (PWM) if it has such a circuit. As the brushed run on the dirty commutator it produces sparks and that transmits RFI (Radio Frequency Interference). Have you tried to clean and polish that commutator yet? Could solve the RFI. You could also shield the inside of the motor housing and run a ground to help squelch the RFI. As a last resort, you need to separate the transducer from the TM area. I know that isn't what you want to hear, but if the other things don't eliminate the RFI, there are no other options. Shielding and a shiny clean commutator with new brushes are about it. JMHO!
 

Joepapar

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What do you clean and polish the commutator with? My other thought was run a ground down the shaft and connect it to some ground in the lower housing and connect it to a ground connector leading back to the crank battery. Tried to avoid that with the ground to ground jump from the TM battery to the crank battery but that didn't work. May not have any other options.
 

sam am I

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I chuck mine into the drill press (on slowest setting) and use something like 400/600/800 grit wet/dry paper on the commutator till it nice ans shinny. Blow any copper dust from out between of the gaps of the commutator pads and fire it up!!........If it's just dirty with stuck on old grease, carbon and such, the wife's acetone cleans um good.....GM might use other methods tho.

If the crank batt. only runs the main motor i.e., the FF's and TM all use/share one common ground, not sure adding the crank batt. ground in the mix will do anything for the noise .....However, doing it, then having one common ground between the entire lot isn't wrong to do and won't hurt anything. (most larger systems are this way and FWIW, mine is. I don't have a floating/ISO'd ground in the 12VDC bunch!!)


Additionally then running a non-current carrying ground wire is basically just then "bonding" that floating metal TM heads/pipe and isn't wrong to do either.

Are you sure the TM head is floating right now? i.e., You continuity measured between the TM's head/pipe to the TM/ FF's battery neg post? Its open?

Overall though, seems a guy could just temporally run/climp on alligator jumper/battey cable to the purposed grounding spots and test before hand. Might save you some heart ache or lead you down on the path of righteousness :)


Side note........My Honda OB, from the factory, was floating. I proceeded to bond it to system ground.
 
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gm280

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Joe, "sam I am" covered a way to clean up the commutator pretty well. If you don't have a drill or drill press, you can use your hands with a 400 grit sandpaper to clean it up. It is copper in color and you will certainly know when you have it clean and shiny for sure. When I rebuild trolling motors, I usually chuck the commutator up in the lathe and spin them up and polish them clean. But there are many ways to do that and the power equipment really isn't needed. So I would clean the commutator and if the brushes look worn, I would replace them as well. And if you presently don't have a quality wire running from the trolling motor foot to the head unit and to the battery as a ground wire, I would install one. JMHO!
 

Joepapar

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Ok, here's what I ran across today. Took the cap off the top of the TM to see what i would need to do to run a ground down through the shaft and as i was rooting around with my fingers a wire fell out of a connector. Followed where the wire ran and, wouldn't you know it, it ran down the shaft into the lower unit and attached to the brush holder. Looks to me like the ground wire somehow broke at one of the connectors. Reconnected, and we'll have to see if that does it. I turned on the front hds unit and pulled up the structure scan page and hit the trolling motor and showed no interference but we'll have to see when I get it on the water. I'll give an update.
 

GA_Boater

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I think you found the problem. Didn't you have interference out of the water before?
 

GA_Boater

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Did you do the water test yet?

Grounds will cause all kinds of things in sensitive electronics. But you usually don't expect to find the problem inside the electronics.
 
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