Goodyear SeaBee 12hp Questions

[trp19string]

Good afternoon,

I am going to be trying to revive my grandfather's old 1951 (maybe 1952) Goodyear SeaBee 12hp (Gale 12d10). It has been in storage for over 35 years (I never saw it run). The motor does spin freely, and has compression strokes. I finally got the most critical part I have been looking for, the carb's high speed adjustment knob (I may have lost over 25 yeas ago). so now I am in need of some other small parts and information. I got a copy of Gale's Service Manual version 2, and is great but does not have everything, it lacks all sizes. I need sizes and types for the following.

flywheel key:
flywheel nut:
Spark plug size:
gear case oil:


And a general explanation on the proper startup process (I am new on the whole speed control level(not the throttle) and the carb. high speed adjustment knob)with recommendations on first time in 35+ years startup (should do a little fogging oil before 1st crank?)

Thanks for your help

 

[steelespike]

Re: Goodyear SeaBee 12hp Questions

Use regular marine gear lube.High speed needle initial setting 1/2 turn out from gently bottomed. I would do the e final adjustment and then install the knob with the arrow straight up. The knob also activates the choke when turned all the way to the left.
Lever on the motor controls spark advance tiller knob controls carb.
There are a number of things that must be done for 35 year start up. The coils are very likely bad if they haven't been changed.
The impeller should be changed. There is a top secret file at the top of the E/J forum with a motor startup after years of storage.
You should check the fuel system.
J6C or J4C plugs set to.030.J6C is a hotter plug perhaps for extended trolling.
Can't help on the nut or the key.

 

[brim_buster]

Re: Goodyear SeaBee 12hp Questions

12D10 according to my manual it uses a flywheel key that is .211/.206 diam by 1 3/16 length material #416 stainless.
Checking on the flywheel nut. will post back. I do have an extensive Gale manual on PDF format if you would like a copy. Shoot me a PM with an email address.

 

[F_R]

Re: Goodyear SeaBee 12hp Questions

brim, I'm impressed. In all my years, I don't think I've ever seen the flywheel key sizes in print. Having said that, I believe it is wrong. It takes a part number 120395 key, used for many years in small OMC outboards of many sizes. It sure is heck isn't that long, nor I don't believe it is stainless. It isn't a standard Woodruff key either.

Flywheel nut is a common 1/2-20 hex nut, available at any hardware store.

 

[steelespike]

Re: Goodyear SeaBee 12hp Questions

I was thinking too long as well.Description sounds like a shear/drive pin.

 

[brim_buster]

Re: Goodyear SeaBee 12hp Questions

My bad it was the shear pin chart I was looking at, sorry for posting bad info and thanx for catching it.:facepalm:

 

[steelespike]

Re: Goodyear SeaBee 12hp Questions

No problem we have all occasionally miss typed,miss read or just plane(sic) missed at one point or another.

 

[steelespike]

Re: Goodyear SeaBee 12hp Questions

Check your PMs.

 

[trp19string]

Well thanks for all the help, I got it all together (short of mounting the gas tank in case of needed adjustment) and she fired up on the third pull after 36 plus years of not being used in my grand fathers shed in Cape May NJ. And all I have is one broken bolt that I have to get out somehow for the exhaust/water jacket (the bolt extractor broke in the bolt).
It has a slight miss that I have to try to figure out (doesn't seem to be at every revolution, its about every 3 sec at idle, and started after about 5 mins from second start up. first start up I only ran it for less then 30 seconds) any thoughts? I may have to re-check the point gaping I think.
Does anyone know the best way to verify if the water cooling is working properly, when it was dissembled to replace the impeller I noticed there was no discharge hole on the side of the motor like my other outboard. When I had it apart I blow out all the tubes, head, and anything else associated with the water cooling, and all was clear.

 

[trp19string]

Well thanks for all the help, I got it all together (short of mounting the gas tank in case of needed adjustment) and she fired up on the third pull after 36 plus years of not being used in my grand fathers shed in Cape May NJ. And all I have is one broken bolt that I have to get out somehow for the exhaust/water jacket (the bolt extractor broke in the bolt).
It has a slight miss that I have to try to figure out (doesn't seem to be at every revolution, its about every 3 sec at idle, and started after about 5 mins from second start up. first start up I only ran it for less then 30 seconds) any thoughts? I may have to re-check the point gaping I think.
Does anyone know the best way to verify if the water cooling is working properly, when it was dissembled to replace the impeller I noticed there was no discharge hole on the side of the motor like my other outboard. When I had it apart I blow out all the tubes, head, and anything else associated with the water cooling, and all was clear.

 

[F_R]

The missing at idle sounds like a lean sneeze. Set the slow speed knob/needle a tad richer. As I remember it, there should be a healthy spray of water out from a hole where the exhaust tube meets the powerhead. But I could be wrong, it's been a long time. In any case, it should be obviously blowing out someplace.

You say you had it apart. I hope you didn't remove the side covers off the cylinder. If you did, good luck. Dang near impossible to reseal.

Followup: You said you checked the point gap. Can we assume you replaced the coils too? ALL of those motors have bad (cracked) coils unless they have already been replaced. That could be your misfiring problem.

 

[trp19string]

I will try the needle adjustment. I did not attempt to crack open the cylinder head. I scoped it and looked good. I replaced the flywheel and timing cam (key slots were flared) new key, flywheel nut, coils, points, capacitors, and wires for the ignition system. The lower unit now has all new shaft seals, o-rings, water pump housing & plate, and new impeller. Basically if it is replaceable it was. Including all carb needles and float ( I had to buy 2 used carbs for all the parts) Ebay made almost all this happen. Thank goodness for used parts.