Free boat... soft floor... 1988 Bayliner Capri Transom, Floor and Stringer repair

[wilkboater]

I've read everything that comes up on sister and scarf as it relates to stringers (if you were wondering, scarf comes up more often in relation to eating supper). It seems that the consensus is, sistering, or scarf jointing(while never the ideal situation) can be done, but should be done with epoxy. Does that mean that all of the stringer work has to be done with epoxy? If so, can I do the deck and transom with poly? I'm not planning to replace the whole deck, but I do plan to sand and glass the whole floor(for strengh and waterproofing). Also, I won't have a lot of room in front of the splice to do the splice(without cutting out the port console and bow seat box). Just looking for some guidelines, On a sidenote, I wonder if you can train lemmings to grind fiberglass? Maybe they know how, and the itching is what drives them off the cliff.....

Thanks again, there aren't that many places that you can ask unintelligent questions and get intelligent answers.

 

[jigngrub]

If you use epoxy in an area it is best to do stay with the epoxy since poly doesn't like epoxy. But yes, you can do your stringer in epoxy and the transom and decking in poly.

Tying new to old is difficult and it's nearly impossible to get the full strength that going back with all new will bring, and there's always the problem of having part of the boat new and the other part old. Not saying it can't or shouldn't be done, it's just better to go back with all new... less problems in the future.

Your plan to reglass the whole deck (old and new together) is a good one, and don't skimp on the layups or amount of material. 2 layups of 1708 over the entire deck will help tie-in and strengthen everything back up.


I've found that Lemmings are insolent and only want to do things the easy way they saw the other Lemming do it, they go out of their way to avoid doing hard work or to be sensible . Avoid the Lemmings and give them directions to the nearest cliff.

It's your boat and you're free to build it any way you want, just try to remember to keep it strong (think overkill!). Just about anything you do to it (unless you screw up real bad) will make it better than it is now, but taking extra steps now can/will make it last longer.

 

[wilkboater]

So, given that definition.....I am a lemming. So you guys are directing towards the cliff? I hear you on the old+new thing. I agree, all new would be better, and appreciate your "overkill plus a little extra" advice; that will keep a lemming like me on the right track. I'm trying to walk that fine line between doing it all perfect, or repairing a boat to good, safe usable condition that I has low resale value, and that I have no emotional attachment to(without dipping in to the kids college fund). So, if I do the stringers and splices in epoxy, and the transom and deck in poly, what do I do about the tabbing of stringers to the transom or anywhere that there might be an overlap of the two products? Lemmings unite!!!!

 

[jigngrub]

You can use epoxy on polyester, but you can't apply polyester to epoxy. Layup your transom with poly and then tab the stringers to the transom with epoxy.

I wasn't calling you a Lemming, but I have seen a lot of "monkey see, monkey do" on some of the different boating forums. Some people see someone do something in an easy way and don't stop to consider if it's the right way or even a good way to do it... they just do it that way because they saw someone else do it.

I tend to put function before form (form before function only works with womens shoes). I'll shoot for safe and strong first, then if I have enough money left over I'll make it as pretty as I can. I'd rather have a plain looking boat that's going to last, than a pretty boat that won't last. You may even have more fun in a plain or ugly boat because you don't have to worry about putting a ding in the fancy paint job or messing up the expensive carpeting... but that's probably just me.

 

[Woodonglass]

No need to use both resins. I'd recommend using Poly only. It's plenty strong and will do the job you want to do with the results you need/want. Check you PM!!!

 

[studioq]

I went through the whole poly/epoxy debate myself and ultimately setttled on poly for the fact that I can get 3 to 5 gallons of poly for the cost of one gallon of epoxy. More than just a cost thing though, my boat is a poly boat and will take really well to the new layups. I intend on using a ton of glass for my resto so the poly should be fine. I think if I were trying to cheat on the glass a little then epoxy would certainly be the answer. The other thing to consider with epoxy is the layup process is a bit more technical and you have to really stay on schedule with each process. Poly all the way for me - with a little epoxy here and there for some repairs and bonding - but not overall construction.

 

[mercurymang]

I just had to know, so I drilled into the transom. It's black and wet-no real surprise there. I found this denial list somewhere on the forum, it's been (sort of, but not really) funny to progress through the stages.

The 10 steps of restoration denial:

1. That soft spot just needs a patch
2. The foam will dry out
3. It's just the deck, the stringers are fine
4. I don't have to pull the engine; I can work around it
5. The transom feels solid
6. I won't have to remove the cap, plenty of room
7. I will just buy a couple of gallons of resin
8. $1,000 is plenty for a job like this
9. I should be on the water by the end of the month
10. I need a beer! Nothing is going as planned!

I'm still hanging on to #6.....but I can feel #8 slipping away!!

Nailed it.

 

[wilkboater]

Sorry, got tired so I took a break(wow 1 1/2 years?????) It won't take long to update you.

Engine is out :
​


Transom plate and gimbal housing out :



Surprise! Transom is rotten :



Under deconstruction :



Updates to follow. Hopefully it won't be a year and a half until the next update. I'm in the grinding phase right now, many questions to follow...

 

[Woodonglass]

Any progress is Good Progress!!!

 

[mxcobra]

looks like fun!!! I used pl premiam to glue mine back together holding up very well

 

[wilkboater]

Some progress:

 

[wilkboater]

Now.....some questions. I'm not sure what to do with this, there is a layer of hairy glass over the actual hull. It's really well attached, hard to grind off, but in most other peoples pictures I see just bare hull. The first picture is a close up, second picture is same area, but from farther back. Does it all have to go, or can I feather it and attach tabbing to it? The line in the center of the pictures is where the stringer was, the line to the left is a strake.

 

[wilkboater]

And finally..... this is port side near the transom. That line going downhill, left to right is where the floor attached. Does this look ready to attach a floor to(with respect to the grinding)? If not, where do I go from here? Thanks in advance.

 

[JASinIL2006]

My boat had that hairy glass, too. I think it was what they used to adhere the transom core to the hull. I ground it off, until I got down to the hull. I didn't want the extra thickness.

 

[wilkboater]

The transom looks good(except where I got a little over zealous with a chisel), and the thickness is good. I'm more concerned with tabbing stringers to it. Yes, I'll admit it, I'm trying to grind as little as possible. If it has to go, it has to go, but I don't want to grind it for no good reason. The bilge area has really thick gel coat and this hairy glass, so there will be plenty of grinding either way...

 

[wilkboater]

Modest update, it's a lot of work, but it doesn't look like much in the pictures. I have a new respect for all those who completely gutted a boat and ground it, or those who did it to several boats.

I'm looking for advice on the strakes. I've narrowed it down to 3 options, unless someone gives me another way to go.

1. Put wood back in them. Coat them with resin, PB them into the grooves, and tab over them. This is how the factory did it.
For what it's worth, the original wood was maybe a 1x1x1 triangle at the stern, and gets smaller towards the bow....not very substantial. They were laid in the strake, and covered with chop strand.

2. Fill the strakes with PB and tab over them. This sounds like a good option, but it's a lot of PB ($$$$$).
3. Do nothing to the strakes, if they're empty, the tabbing will go down into it, giving it support.

Any ideas that I'm missing?





On a different note, Bayliner saved me some grinding. The old tabbing was sprayed on with a chopper gun; after cutting it nearly flush with a sawzall, I was able to drive a wide chisel under the edge and pry up large pieces of tabbing. All that was left was a thin layer of long, hairy glass fibers. A few seconds of grinding made it go away.

 

[JASinIL2006]

You did get lucky! Prying off that tabbing saved you a bunch of grinding!

 

[wilkboater]

Need advice please. I'm starting to source wood for the repair. The port stringer will be 10' long. I'm having trouble getting anything other than marine plywood locally. I intend to sister that stringer at the front, if I use ply, I'll have two joints, one to make it 10' long, and one to join it to the existing stringer. Which is better.....an extended plywood stringer, or a 1 piece yellow pine stringer(high grade no knots)? If I use ply, I can get both stringers and my transom wood out of one sheet of marine plywood. OK, experts, teach me....and I will learn!!!

 

[wilkboater]

OK, after many hours of reading I hit on the idea (on this forum of course) to buy 3/8 plywood and double it to build my 3/4" x 10' long stringer. See if I have this right......exterior ply, stagger the joints, tite bond III. Will this do what I'm trying to do? Or just buy a high grade yellow pine 1 x 6 x 10 and be done. Yes, I know I am over thinking it.....

 

[Woodonglass]

You CAN use 3/8" plywood and stagger the joints. Or just use 3/4" plywood and use Butt Joints and use 1/4" plywood on both sides and glue and screw em together. It'll be plenty strong enuf!!! Plywood is MUCH stronger than the dimensional Pine lumber so I'd recommend sticking with the plywood.