peterskeeter
Petty Officer 3rd Class
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2008
- Messages
- 86
As some may know, a few days ago I was wanting to flush this motor without a bucket and without using flush muffs because they are unreliable when it comes to creating a good seal. To do this, I made an adapter to fit my motor with little modification and time. This takes about an hour to do and will cost no more than $12 or so. I attained the supplies from Lowe's with the exception of the aluminum plate. I had some scrap aluminum plate laying around from another project. So here we go!
Supplies
3/4" x 3/8" hose connector (the most expensive part @ $7.43!
)
5/16" x 1/4" brass male adapter ($1.68)
(2) 1/2" x 10-24 sloted pan head machine screws (pack of 5, $0.93)
1 ft 5/16" ID poly hose ($0.20 per foot)
1 piece of aluminum plate (enough to make a new water pump cover)
How to:
Trace the old water pump plate out on your aluminum plate and cut out the pattern. Drill your holes and make sure it aligns with the recessed area on the motor. Pay close attention to where the water passage enters the pump. This is where you want to install the 5/16" x 1/4" brass male adapter for optimum flow. Drill a 1/2" hole into your new water pump plate. Thread your male adapter fitting into so that it is now threaded, or you can use a tap. I did not happen to have a tap so I just threaded with the adapter to create the threads. Install your poly hose onto the male adapter barb and onto the female hose adapter barb. Using a small amount of carb cleaner will soften it up so that it will slide on easily to the barb. Connect to your garden hose and you're now done. The only thing I may modify to this setup is to create a small flap that can swivel over the opening of the water pump plate when I'm not using it for flushing. I think this may help keep debris such as duck weed from being drawn into the impeller. The beauty about this design is that it is easy to just thread it on to the plate and turn the hose on. I also noticed the water doesn't blow by, so you can turn the pressure from the faucet down and run the motor longer without flooding the yard!
HAPPY FLUSHING!
http://img402.imageshack.us/g/hpim2137.jpg/
Can't get the pictures to work for some reason...
Supplies
3/4" x 3/8" hose connector (the most expensive part @ $7.43!
)5/16" x 1/4" brass male adapter ($1.68)
(2) 1/2" x 10-24 sloted pan head machine screws (pack of 5, $0.93)
1 ft 5/16" ID poly hose ($0.20 per foot)
1 piece of aluminum plate (enough to make a new water pump cover)
How to:
Trace the old water pump plate out on your aluminum plate and cut out the pattern. Drill your holes and make sure it aligns with the recessed area on the motor. Pay close attention to where the water passage enters the pump. This is where you want to install the 5/16" x 1/4" brass male adapter for optimum flow. Drill a 1/2" hole into your new water pump plate. Thread your male adapter fitting into so that it is now threaded, or you can use a tap. I did not happen to have a tap so I just threaded with the adapter to create the threads. Install your poly hose onto the male adapter barb and onto the female hose adapter barb. Using a small amount of carb cleaner will soften it up so that it will slide on easily to the barb. Connect to your garden hose and you're now done. The only thing I may modify to this setup is to create a small flap that can swivel over the opening of the water pump plate when I'm not using it for flushing. I think this may help keep debris such as duck weed from being drawn into the impeller. The beauty about this design is that it is easy to just thread it on to the plate and turn the hose on. I also noticed the water doesn't blow by, so you can turn the pressure from the faucet down and run the motor longer without flooding the yard!
HAPPY FLUSHING!
http://img402.imageshack.us/g/hpim2137.jpg/
Can't get the pictures to work for some reason...
Last edited:
