First ride in the boat - had to paddle back

Jeremy90bay

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
277
Re: First ride in the boat - had to paddle back

soke it in PB BLASTER put the puller back on so its got good tension. tap the top of the puller bolt with a 32 oz. hammer. if it doesnt work try heat then tapping.
 

john from md

Commander
Joined
Apr 13, 2008
Messages
2,184
Re: First ride in the boat - had to paddle back

Search for Frank Acampora's posts. He has covered this a half dozen times.

John
 

Leviathan

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 6, 2009
Messages
38
Re: First ride in the boat - had to paddle back

Search for Frank Acampora's posts. He has covered this a half dozen times.

John

Thanks, I understand how to pull the engine apart. That isn't the problem (at least not at this point!) the flywheel won't come off the crank.
 

roadrunnr

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Messages
99
Re: First ride in the boat - had to paddle back

Sorry for your bad luck, looks like you'll be rebuilding all 3 cylinders. Factory compression spec is 150 psi, anything under 100 is not good plus all three cylinders should be within 10% of each other. Good luck on your rebuild and keep us posted!
 

john from md

Commander
Joined
Apr 13, 2008
Messages
2,184
Re: First ride in the boat - had to paddle back

I referred you to Frank's posts as he addressed the issue of removing a stuck flywheel.

Here is my suggestion.

Assuming you are using the puller that has three bolts into the wheel and the center screw applying pressure on the crankshaft. Set up the puller in position but not tight. spray crank/wheel junction with Deep Creep or Kano Kroil and heat with a hair dryer. Crank center screw and put pulling pressure on wheel.

Spray and heat several times over 48 hrs. Next, rap center screw with 3lb masons hammer. Try tighening screw somemore and rap screw again.

This procedure usually works.

If it does not, you can try heating the wheel/crank junction with a propane type soldering iron. DO NOT USE A FLAME. Also make sure all gas is out of carbs before doing this.

Once it is heated, take dry ice (available in most supermarkets) and, with a glove, apply to shaft. The idea is the aluminum wheel will expand from the heat and the shaft will shrink from the cold. This is hard to do with a puller on it but I have done it in the past with other flywheels.

Regards,

John

Crank the
 

Leviathan

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 6, 2009
Messages
38
Re: First ride in the boat - had to paddle back

Thanks for the information. I've never had such a difficult time pulling a flywheel. I'll have to give that a shot next time I'm up there.

I guess the next question I had refers to a replacement engine since the cost of the rebuild is costly. I assume the 120/125 Force is the same as the 85, but with another cylinder. Has anyone tried mounting one of these motors in an L-drive boat? Of course I'd need all the electronics and engine wiring harness (which I may or may not have to adapt to fit the boat harness). Another concern I have is that it will be taller than the old engine so the rear cover might not be tall enough. Any input?
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
Re: First ride in the boat - had to paddle back

They do have 120 HP L-drives. I don't know if they used a different cover though.
 

Leviathan

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 6, 2009
Messages
38
Re: First ride in the boat - had to paddle back

How about physically bolting it into the boat and running it. Anyone?
 
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