Fairing/Sanding Tools HELP.

[lmannyr]

The interior was covered with carpet from top to bottom prior to ....see signature....

Thanks goes to everyone who has helped get me this far.

Ok. So I have come up with a great mixture of polyester resin and q-cells. The inside of the hull has been built up and ready for fairing/sanding.

So far, I have been using a mixing stick about a foot long, one inch wide, and 1/8th of an inch thick, wraped with sandpaper. This seems to be flexible (so far) enough while sanding horzontally. I apply enough pressure at the center of the makeshift block to make contact with the surface.

Now I'm having trouble keeping the vertical curvatures of the hull. How can maintain these? There seems to be more flexing of the block needed when sanding vertically. I don't think apply too much pressure will give me great results.

If there is a better approach to this task please enlighten me. The work on this thread is great. Unfortunately there is no mention on tools and techniques used.

Thank you for reading this thread.

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Fairing/Sanding Tools HELP.

There are pics and discriptions of the tools he used about a 1/4 of the way through the thread.

Air tools make the work go faster, you need to get an assortment and just see what works best in the exact spot you're working at that moment.

Most of the interior surfaces he did were cover with paint or other nonskid products. Is that what you plan on doing?

 

[lmannyr]

Re: Fairing/Sanding Tools HELP.

Most of the interior surfaces he did were cover with paint or other nonskid products. Is that what you plan on doing?

YES. All painted except for walking areas which will be nonskid. Exactly. It used to be all carpet, so I have to do all the fairing for a beautiful finish.

I don't have an aircompressor so electric will have to do. I looked at his tools listed and pictured. It hard to understand how the curves were done with the tools listed. I would think some sort of molding sanding tool would be needed.

Does the grinder pad mold onto the surfaces?

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Fairing/Sanding Tools HELP.

There are electric DA's and while they may not give you a perfect true finish, they will get it close and then you can block sand it as needed.
An electric palm sander will work too. I've never used an electric long board, but they may be available. For shaping, assorted grits from 36 to 100 will work, then you can primer it if needed and use 180 or 220 for a smooth ready for paint surface. The areas with nonskid don't need to be very smooth, the rough surface will hide some nasty stuff, the painted areas will show everything.

 

[BillP]

Re: Fairing/Sanding Tools HELP.

If I understand it you are sanding the hull sides? If so and doing by hand with a block, sand at a 45 degree angle from sheer to bottom...then reverse the 45 angle and sand over the same area again. This is how to get a true surface...it's how they do it when making boat plugs and molds. If you want to get picky and do what the pros do use a water based machine dye on the surface before sanding. It lets you see high/low spots as you go. When all the dye is sanded you are smooth but this method is done in stages and with several applications of dye (the dye washes off with water when you're done).

bp

 

[lmannyr]

Re: Fairing/Sanding Tools HELP.

Yes, the sides inside the hull is what I'm working on right now. I'll try the 45 degree technique and post back to let the forum know how it worked out.

Does the guide coat need to be a special spray paint? Or can it be any spray paint lightly sprayed on the surface and use as a guide? Where can I get this machine dye if it's required and how is it applied?


Thanks for the tips.

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Fairing/Sanding Tools HELP.

You can buy special guide coat paint, but most people just use the cheapest fast drying primer or paint they can find.


Just put a light mist coat on and start sanding.

 

[BillP]

Re: Fairing/Sanding Tools HELP.

Machine shops use the same dye for marking metal. It isn't a primer and doesn't build the surface. The stuff I used was dark blue. It's mixed with water and is brushed on without regard to fine finish or brushing marks. When dry it leaves a film that removes very easy, doesn't clog 600 grit and doesn't leave stains on anything.

bp