electric choke problems

[heyyou325]

I just put a rebuilt edlebrock carb on my 350 motor, and the choke doesn't seem to work. It's closed with power off or on. I can adjust it open but then it doesn't close. linkage all seems to be loose. warm up the engine, and the choke doesn't move over maybe 1/4". If I could find a 22 ft choke cable, or pto cable affordable, I would put on a manual choke. Does anyone know anything about redoing these electric chokes, or even what to look for as a problem. Engine runs great as long as I adjust the choke as it warms up. Carb came off a frozen motor very low hrs. Hired a mechanic friend to check out and clean the carb up. He said it all looked brand new, but I had him go thru it anyway. I can't get ahold of him very easy anymore to ask him. Plus I'm cheap.

 

[Don S]

Re: electric choke problems

Does it have a good ground as well as power to the choke coil? What year 350 ya got? Does your power to the choke come from the ignition circuit or the charging circuit?

 

[heyyou325]

Re: electric choke problems

Power to the choke comes from the ignition switch, got tired of looking for a good wire in back. I have 12 volts at where the wire is plugged in to the choke, to where the ground coming from the choke is attached to a screw attaching the choke housing to the carb. Not sure of the age of the carb/choke. Bought a fiberform boat with a cracked block from freezing, motor had less than a year on it. They drained the logs, but not the block. Divorce, wife got boat, new husband/boyfriend, didn't ask. Sold the outdrive, lower unit, everything from the engine back and paid for the boat and 2 axle trailer with surge brakes. Boat was a late 70's, I don't have any info on the engine or carb other than that.

 

[Don S]

Re: electric choke problems

If you have good power to the choke coil, and a good ground, then chances are that either the choke coil is defective, or improperly installed.

 

[heyyou325]

Re: electric choke problems

Ok, that's what I sort of thought. I have some workmates who say all I need to do is tweek the linkage a little and it will start, but I don't think that's a good idea. The fact that it is closed with no juice, and is supposed to be open, and closed with juice tells me something is wrong other than the linkage. Can those be rebuilt, do I need a new one, or do you know where a 22 foot choke cable can be purchased?

 

[Don S]

Re: electric choke problems

The fact that it is closed with no juice, and is supposed to be open, and closed with juice tells me something is wrong other than the linkage. Can those be rebuilt, do I need a new one, or do you know where a 22 foot choke cable can be purchased?

With a cold engine, the choke is supposed to be closed, and it will remain closed (almost closed) after starting until the choke slowly warms up over the next 3 to 5 minutes, maybe more depending on how tight the choke is adjusted.

To adjust the choke, with a cold engine. Open the throttle about 1/8.
loosen the 3 screws holding the choke coil.
Turn the choke coil so the choke can open and stay open.
Now turn the choke coil until the choke plate just closes.
Tighten the screws down and you should be set to go.

Start the engine on muffs and set the idle to around 1000 rpm and see if the choke slowly opens after 5 or so minutes of running.
Note, as the choke opens and the engine warms, bring the idle down some, don't let it keep going over about 1500 rpm.

 

[heyyou325]

Re: electric choke problems

This has a jet drive so I don't like to even idle it 1000, but with it adjusted a bit more open than directions call for, it fires right up(about 7 to 800). After about 3 or 4 minutes it starts to lug down, I open the choke by hand, or adjust the coil and it opens, and speeds up the rpm to about 1000. I idle it back down and it idles fine. After 10 minutes I turn it off, and do other stuff. 2 hrs later the choke will not close a bit when I turn the key on. Been doing honey dos today, hoping to get the choke coil taken off tomorrow and into a boat shop to see what they can do with it. The way I read the directions for the choke, it is supposed to close with a cold engine as soon as it gets juice, not be closed the whole time. Am I wrong? The butterfly in the carb might move 3/8" (maybe) between cold engine and 160 degrees which is where it normally runs. I'm thinking something is wrong with the choke mechanism, coil or whatever. Is there an easy way to fix it, or do I need to take it to somebody that knows something? A workmate gave me directions to adjust the choke linkage with a .026 wire in the slot piston cylinder, in the choke piston linkage. I'm not explaining it too well. In a couple hrs, I could have a picture of the directions scanned and added. I'm not too fast with some of this computer stuff.

 

[heyyou325]

Re: electric choke problems

Hey, it only took me an hr I'm getting quicker. Do you think what's in figure 10 would do any good, or should I take it off and have it fixed?

 

[heyyou325]

Re: electric choke problems

Just thought I'd let you know, I need a new cap for it. There is no continuity between the spade for the hot wire and the spring.

 

[Maclin]

Re: electric choke problems

Hey you (haha), I just wanted to go over how an electric choke works on carbureted automotive-based stern drive engines. Your posts indicate to me you may have it envisioned backwards, and others may also.

The electric part of the choke is a heater. When the ignition is on the heater is heating up a bi-metal coil that works the linkage for the choke plate. The bi-metal coil heats up and moves the linkage working the choke plate slowly to the open position. The choke plate will be closed when the engine is cold even when the ignition is on until the heater has had enough time to affect the bi-metal coil. This type of choke is also called a "divorced" choke because it is self-sufficient (stays with the carb so to speak), modulated by something other than a direct conduit to engine heat. The "divorced" heater takes the place of a bi-metal coil and linkage sitting in a choke stove well on the intake, allows for more universal fitting of same carb to many different intake manifolds without having to match up to the linkage from the choke stove well.

Now, on (older) carbed outboard engines when you hit the choke button you hear a loud CLICK as small servo closes the choke for starting, that is an electrically activated choke and not the same type of "electric" choke as what your sterndrive engine's carb has.

 

[heyyou325]

Re: electric choke problems

You
re right, I was told backwards. Found out at the shop. But hooking a battery up to the choke cap should get a response.

 

[Maclin]

Re: electric choke problems

Yes, as you suspect it sounds like the heater element is open .