franklin_m
Recruit
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2010
- Messages
- 3
Hello,
Money's a bit tight this year and I need to do a winterization on my engine/drive that will handle winter temps here in Central PA (-11F was lowest we saw last year).
Boat was winterized professionally last season, has new bellows and gimbal bearing. We used it maybe 5 time this season, all in fresh water. I'm concerned about getting 100% anti-freeze all the way through the engine/drive, and want to know if this method will work:
- Garden hose hooked to engine flush port via output leg of one of those "Y" garden hose valves.
- Fresh water from tap hooked to one input leg of "Y" valve
- Sump pump immersed in 100% non-toxic anti freeze and hooked to other input leg of "Y" valve
- Fresh water side of "Y" valve open, anti-freeze side closed, water flowing to flush port.
- Start engine, run at idle (or just above) to until thermostat is open
- Once open, start sump pump, then open anti-freeze side of valve
- Once confirm fluid flowing, then close fresh water side of "Y" valve
- When approaching about 6 gallons of anti-freeze, fog engine until it quits.
- Disconnect everything.
Do you think this methodology will make sure the engine/drive is purged of fresh water? I'd like to avoid disconnecting hoses etc. if able.
Also, what about drive oil, engine oil, lube, etc?
Thanks,
Frank
Money's a bit tight this year and I need to do a winterization on my engine/drive that will handle winter temps here in Central PA (-11F was lowest we saw last year).
Boat was winterized professionally last season, has new bellows and gimbal bearing. We used it maybe 5 time this season, all in fresh water. I'm concerned about getting 100% anti-freeze all the way through the engine/drive, and want to know if this method will work:
- Garden hose hooked to engine flush port via output leg of one of those "Y" garden hose valves.
- Fresh water from tap hooked to one input leg of "Y" valve
- Sump pump immersed in 100% non-toxic anti freeze and hooked to other input leg of "Y" valve
- Fresh water side of "Y" valve open, anti-freeze side closed, water flowing to flush port.
- Start engine, run at idle (or just above) to until thermostat is open
- Once open, start sump pump, then open anti-freeze side of valve
- Once confirm fluid flowing, then close fresh water side of "Y" valve
- When approaching about 6 gallons of anti-freeze, fog engine until it quits.
- Disconnect everything.
Do you think this methodology will make sure the engine/drive is purged of fresh water? I'd like to avoid disconnecting hoses etc. if able.
Also, what about drive oil, engine oil, lube, etc?
Thanks,
Frank
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