A couple of questions: I was loosing around 70% on every cylinder during the leak down test. The two cylinders with cracked exhaust ports obviously will leak down. But why would the other cylinders be about the same loss?
Secondly, if these 462624 heads are know to crack I'm reluctant to go back with them. What other head options do I have?
I found some vortec bare heads and a matching intake. The heads need rebuilt and the intake is an aluminum Edlebrock. I'm running raw water cooling in 100% fresh water. Should I have any concerns about the aluminum? This is my first time at replacing heads so thanks again for enduring my rookie questions.
I found some vortec bare heads and a matching intake. The heads need rebuilt and the intake is an aluminum Edlebrock. I'm running raw water cooling in 100% fresh water. Should I have any concerns about the aluminum? This is my first time at replacing heads so thanks again for enduring my rookie questions.
That's a good point, since I've never had a valve job done before, what would that typically cost? Also, one machine shop told me I needed stainless valves for a marine application. I checked the valves that came out of my 1984 heads and they are not stainless, and aside from being dirty there doesnt appear to be anything wrong with them. Is stainless necessary? Thanks again.
Valves are the same . . . As Bond-o indicated, much cheaper to find some build-up heads that somebody is selling. I could have (should have) got new heads for my 454 when I re-built it last year . . . They would have been only $600 for the pair . I would think a complete rebuild or build-up of the heads would be around $1200.
My local Napa has done all my machine work.. for valves, $12/valve to cut them and the seats. If he has to put in bronze guides, they are $20/guide.. Realisticly a set of $50 heads ( common 'core' cost for Vortechs ) could end up costing the same as new heads.
