I have this beautiful 1983 (year build) Bayliner Capri 1950 (boat length) I bought new with a Volvo AQ225D (short block Chevy 305 V8) and 270 stern drive that I love. It sucked a valve five years ago, and I am just now getting to an engine restoration. I have read the "money hole" posts and nonetheless am going for it desptie the warnings. <br /><br />The drive is probably fine, will have to drain the fuel and clean gunk, replace engine with long block, rebuild carb and do all the hoses. I can live with that and am handy and I think I can do all the work myself and have something to do this winter. But, now as I start to shop around for the engine, too many options, not enough answers. The original engine is Chevy 305 with Holly carb, normal point type ignition.<br /><br />Since I am starting from scratch, why not get a a 350 instead of 305 as the remanufactured price is not much more? A 350 is just a 305 with internal bore/stroke differences that shold not matter to the drive except for excessive horpower overload. Well I need to know if it will just bolt up? <br /><br />So far after many nights searching on the internet I found out the following differences to the chevy short block over the last 20 years.<br /><br />Chevy 305 after 1983 changed the bolt pattern on the valve covers. Okay I can live with that, get Pep Boys valve covers so what if they don't say Volvo on them.<br /><br />Dip stick moves from starboard to port on engines built after 1985. I can't see a big deal I have room on both sides. Am I missing anything here? No big problem right? <br /><br />Rear main seal was two piece and changed to one piece . Uhhhh, the outdrive should not care how the oil is sealed.<br /><br />The flywheel changed from 12.75 inches to I think 14. Now I get worried as I do not know all the problems about hitching engine to drive. My shop manual is not here yet and may not even answer this. I think maybe so what I still have my old flywheel just take off the 14 and put on the 12, is it that easy? Who knows?<br /><br />Also around 1987 intake manifold changed bolt angle. This problem can be solved with new manifold, maybe aluminum high rise or something fancy. Money (a few hundred bucks) will solve this or no?<br /><br />So now, worried I am hunkering down and saying "Just buy the same 1983 replacement block and don't try and take 20 years off your boat". Then another voice in my head (maybe the devil) says hey get the 350, get EFI and don't waste time rebuilding the Holly, go hi-rise manifold and put some better parts (except the one with flame problems like starter alernator).<br /><br />One friend says go to a car dealership and buy a brand new Goodwrench 350 crated engine for about $1200 and don't worry about the marine cam just live with the cam, bolt up the new engine and go. I do not see any information on the intenet of anyone who ever did this. I have read all the posts here about car engines will work except for cam and parts that make sparks, but did these posters consider these flywheel seal, dipstick, differences?<br /><br />I can go to these guys and get the 1983 Volvo Marine remanufactured long block for about the same $1200 and have no problems of any kind. They guarantee all original parts will fit and bolt up and guarantee one year for defects.<br /><br /> http://www.rebuilt-auto-engines.com/ <br /><br />They have best price/spin on a reman at about $1,200 and I want to add titanium valves and a few extras.<br /><br />(If anyone has bad news, good news about this source I would appreciate it, and if anyone has a better source also I would appreciate the advice)<br /><br />But my big question for those of you who have much experience, is...What can I bolt up to my Volvo 270 without a big headache? Any Chevy small block? or do I have to get an old one with identical dip stick, flywheel, and oil seal. Is there any chart or matrix on what will and will not just bolt up? Should I just play it safe and buy just the identical year for year 305 and just forget about upgrading to something more current.<br /><br />It just seems anti-climactic to buy a 20 year old reman long block when there is no core charge and the remanufacturer will just give me my pick of anything off the list. I just don't know what to pick.<br /><br />Also if I pick this old block, and then find my drive is in need of repair, then I have to stay with an old drive to match the old engine. Catch 22.<br /><br />So before I chicken out and just get the 1983 long block, or take a stab in the dark and pick a newer 350 I thought it would be wise to hear from this group. What engine should I pick off their list? Looking forward to what anyone knows.<br /><br />Thanks.