Changing sfift actuator seal on DP-C

[MotorheadTed]

I can't get the shift actuator apart to change the seal. The detent pin is held in by a small roll pin that goes in from the END of the rotating cylinder instead of the side like earlier models.
I've just spent 2 hrs searching without finding anything regarding replacing this seal, and have posted 2 previous times regarding my inability to access the repair manual via 4 shared. The manual comes up for a split second, then gets replaced by the message " navigation to this page canceled" Even went to the website and registered with same result.
Very frustrated !!!
Any help appreciated.

 

[billbayliner]

Re: Changing sfift actuator seal on DP-C

You'll see two types of eccentric pistons used, and each detent pin retention [spring or roll pin] is different.
One type will be bored perpendicular to the eccentric piston. This spring pin can be pushed right on through.

The other style [J in view #10] is probably what you have and will be bored parallel to the piston like the one shown here.

If yours is like view #10 and if the last guy in there did not retrieve the old spring pin, it is still down in the hole. This means that there is no room for the current spring pin to be pushed out of the detent pin.
You end up with a detent pin that cannot be removed from the bass piston.

These little spring pins are pretty hard so I don't know if you could drill one without breaking the small drill bit. I suppose that you could drill through from the opposite end and remove both spring pins, then braze the hole closed.

If you do get it apart, note that the new seal is directional.

 

[MotorheadTed]

Re: Changing sfift actuator seal on DP-C

Bill; thanks for the help ! Yes, the parallel pin type is what I have. The perpindicular would seem to me to be the logical way to secure the detent pin, the other way makes no sense, other than it may be easier for initial assembly at the factory. So it's one o'haul and next time replace it, but no, you can't get it apart without removing the pin ! Replace entire assembly only option ? I'll try the " drive it further in" option which I think I have a good chance that it will not have been done before as this is a very low time unit. RE: seals; I notice some are installed with the lip " inside", while some (this one included) have the lip "outside" . That also makes no sense. I would think there is some pressure build-up in the gear case, which is not vented, so I would expect all seals to be "lip in".
Just my opinion.
Thanks again,
Ted

 

[billbayliner]

Re: Changing sfift actuator seal on DP-C

Ted, you won't be able to drive the spring pin in any further. There just isn't any space for it if another pin is already inside of the bore.
The last guy in should have sprayed carb cleaner down the hole to dilute the oil that was keeping the pin in there.
Then he could have lightly tapped the piston against a piece of wood, and the spring pin would have come out.

I'd drill in from the opposite side, push both pins out, then braze or silver solder the hole shut.
Or take it to a pro and have them TIG it closed. It couldn't cost but a few dollars.
You don't have anything to loose by trying it.

The new seal will be double lip and will look absolutely ambidextrous.... but it is NOT!
Look at the installation instructions. It should show you where a very small section of the metal casement is exposed between where the actual seal material wraps around and joins again.
It is very small and hard even notice it if you weren't aware of it.
This side installs towards the oil side.
Lightly coat the bore with a sealant.

 

[MotorheadTed]

Re: Changing sfift actuator seal on DP-C

Bill; Did vacumn test on drive without replacing seal, checked good @ 15''. (as low as my hand pump would go)
Aint broke, so I wont fix it !!
Thanks again for your help.

 

[billbayliner]

Re: Changing sfift actuator seal on DP-C

Ted, how long will it hold and did you rotate the piston while under press/vac?
This particular seal is often the cause of leaks in these drives.