carb wont stop leaking!

[Old outboard dude]

I have an 81 evinrude and the carb will not stop leaking no matter what I do. it is leaking at the seem of the bowl inbetween the gasket and the carb. I even bought a new gasket for the bowl and it is still leaking gas after I pump the ball! please help!

 

[interalian]

Bowl or carb body could be warped. What model?

 

[tomhath]

As I recall the bowl is fairly thin sheet metal isn't it? Might be hard to find just that part. If you're absolutely sure it's coming out there (not leaking from above and dripping down) then maybe it's time for a replacement carburetor.

 

[Old outboard dude]

the model is E10RCID. I'm thinking the bowl may be warped but it does not look that way.

 

[Old outboard dude]

it is a thin metal but I am sure there is no hole in the bowl. I am thinking of possibly just buying a 15 hp carb

 

[flyingscott]

Is the gasket on

 

[Old outboard dude]

yes the gasket is on

 

[Old outboard dude]

another thing, does it matter how tight the screws on the bowl are?

 

[Fed]

Needle & seat should shut the fuel off before the level reaches the gasket.

 

[Crosbyman]

81 but sure looks like the basic carb from the 60s.... except a few gadgets

​1- pull the carb off... turn it upside down and blow air in the inlet nipple. if the air goes in the carb the needle & float needs a workout
air should not go in while held upside down . Make certain the float is installed as it should (not upside down)

​ 2- eye out the carb edges with a metal ruler to see if it is warped or not

​3- if you see much light under the ruler while eying it well.... it is warped try running the warped part on 120 grit over a flat table saw top or a real flat surface till the perimeter is shiny all across

3 - install gasket ... screw down the top to bottom reinstall..... refuel ... repump manually till the bulb is hard and no more l​eaks

4- still leaking on the seams??? try applying gasket in a tube goo very slightly all round ... don't block any passages

​ 5 -reassemble .... re-install... refuel with the pump bulb .... should not leak.... screws should be screwed down in a figue 8 sequentially across

6- still leaking ....?? maybe somebody else can suggest things.... I would try anything before buying a carb !!!

 

[Old outboard dude]

what do you mean the needle and seat should shut the fuel off?

 

[flyingscott]

When the fuel rises in the bowl the float goes up with it. When the float gets high enough it will push against the needle and shut the fuel off. When the fuel level drops the float lowers and the needle comes off the seat allowing fuel in again.

 

[Old outboard dude]

well my problem could be in the float then. I did not think it looked to good. also there is gas coming out of where I believe is the place where fumes are let out. and also I doubled up the gaskets on the bowl and that seemed to solve that problem decently. with all of this work today, I put it into a barrel and it would not start! I have had it running not long ago so I am not sure of what may have gone wrong besides the float not working. thanks for the help

 

[flyingscott]

If you have the original cork float it could be waterlogged and not floating. To set the float height flip the carb upside down and set it to level and go back to one gasket on the float bowl

 

[oldboat1]

...and avoid assembling the float upside down (check a parts diagram) -- adjustment tang pointed toward float needle seat.

 

[Old outboard dude]

I have already set the bowl to level, but why would I need to go back to one gasket? I think I am going to seal the float again. I have heard of people putting the float in their oven to dry it out first, but for how long and at what temperature, also is this necessary? and is this a fire hazard?

 

[Crosbyman]

your carb is like a toilet bowl reservoir which when full it stop water coming in. Carbs are the same... as the float rises up it pushes the inlet needle to block the entry of new fuel regardless of the fuel pump's attempts to fill it ( to a point anyway)

​ when you turn the carb upside down you more or less simulate a full bowl of fuel and if working correctly the inlet needle will be pushed against it's mating surface and will block any air coming in as it would... with fuel when right side up.

​I suggest you forget about gaskets for now and try the air test. if OK then proceed with float and gasket issues/solutions after

​putting 2 gaskets only hides the issues but if it works go for it.

this book is old but contains usefull info on your carb's great-grandfather (same principles...)

http://boatinfo.no/lib/johnson/manuals/1922-1964johnson.html#/0

 

[flyingscott]

I have already set the bowl to level, but why would I need to go back to one gasket? I think I am going to seal the float again. I have heard of people putting the float in their oven to dry it out first, but for how long and at what temperature, also is this necessary? and is this a fire hazard?

If you would have bought the OEM kit for your carb you would have gotten the replacement float. If you already had to reseal the float it's time for it to go!! You need to go back to one gasket because that is how it is supposed to be. All you are doing is covering up the problem those bowls seldom ever warp.

 

[Old outboard dude]

I have done the air test before and it is working properly. I have never sealed the float before, and I do not want to put anymore money into, it has a few problems with the lower unit leaking oil and I would just like to get it running decent before I put too much money into it.

 

[Old outboard dude]

I have done the air test before and it is working properly. I have never sealed the float before, and I do not want to put anymore money into, it has a few problems with the lower unit leaking oil and I would just like to get it running decent before I put too much money into it.