broken bolt

Joined
Aug 27, 2008
Messages
58
Broke the bolt next to the sparkplug hole that holds the head cover then broke the snap on screw extractor off in it,got pretty frustrated then and tried something else that didn't work.Is there a chance that I can fill this boogered up hole in with jb weld or something like and drill and tap I know a new head is 200.00 that I really dont have,do I have any options other than a new head?
 

bktheking

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 29, 2008
Messages
5,057
Re: broken bolt

What motor???? Screw extractor's are garbage and are made of such hardened steel drilling them out is almost imposssible.
 

oldcatamount

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 4, 2010
Messages
1,740
Re: broken bolt

Take the head off. That will expose the broken bolt shaft. Then you could try some heat and a really good pair of vise grips. Avoid touching/gouging the vise grips on the machined surface of the head. All this would cost you is a new head gasket and a new head bolt.
 

bktheking

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 29, 2008
Messages
5,057
Re: broken bolt

That all depends on where it broke and I'd love to know what motor. If it's a motor without a stat and it broke off flush in the block there's more involved here.
 

Mas

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Oct 3, 2006
Messages
1,656
Re: broken bolt

You might be able to get someone to weld a rod to the bolt shaft...might even loosen up the bolt with the heat.

mas
 

samo_ott

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jun 18, 2006
Messages
5,125
Re: broken bolt

I concur. What engine? It might have a water jacket. But getting the head off should be the first priority.
 

MichaelP

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 26, 2010
Messages
1,190
Re: broken bolt

In my machinist days I've had to remove a few broken taps so if you can't get it out with the advise already given and can't knock it loose with a punch try this. I used a customized carbide bit an old toolmaker taught me to slowly core out the center of the tap. I don't have a picture of it so I'll try to explain. You'll probably have to take the head to a reputible precision machine shop with a cutter grinder. On a ?3/16-?1/4 carbide tool blank you grind 3 equal facets on the end at about 20? so it will appear less pointed than a normal drill bit. Then on the OD grind a tapered relief of 3? 1/2" up from the edge of the facets. This is best used on a bridgeport with the tool in a collet and the head securely bolted down. Bring the spindle down to the stop 2" down and slowly bring the table with the head on it up to the tool. Jog the tool up every few seconds for a second to clear debris and air cool while moving the table up slowly. Do this dry @2000-3000 rpm blowing out any chunks as you go. This works and when the hole is clear your set up to retap for longer bolt or helicoil. I know this sounds complex but it will make sence to a manual machinist. (Not a CNC machinist) Don't try this by hand as it will screw up the hole even more. Good luck.
 

R.Johnson

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 24, 2003
Messages
4,446
Re: broken bolt

This can be almost an impossibe job with a broken easy out. I found this tip on the practical macinist board. The man said to add alum to clean water, and boil the aluminum part until the bolt dissolves or comes loose.I have no personal exsperience with this so i don't know if it will work, or not. You can find alum in larger grocery store's that sell canning supplies. I know this sound's like the dead chicken around the neck cure, but you can't be any worse off than you are now. It would be a cheap, easy fix if it work's. He was talking about the method being used to remove broken threading taps' from aluminum, and it would not work with a broken tap in steel
 

MichaelP

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 26, 2010
Messages
1,190
Re: broken bolt

Never tried it in aluminum but don't see why it wont work, the tool should never touch the base material only the part you want to remove thats why the tool is smaller than the hole. Running the tool clock wise may also help for an easy out.
Edit...Clockwise
 
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